[1.8T4me]

Hey All,

I have a 2001.5 1.T 5 speed manual with leather, luxury, monsoon, and homelink.

I just took it in for its 35,000 mile service. (The car has 36000+ miles on it).

Anyways, I also told them my car was pulsating when I was braking. They took off the wheels and examined the rotors and told me the rotors were wearing thin and were getting warped with heat. The front brake pad has 10 mm left and the rear pad has 6 mm left.

They asked for $450 to replace the rotors and brake pads. Is that too much?

Should I consider getting aftermarket rotors and pads and have them install those instead of OEM stuff?

TIA

 

[vuvision]

There is an on going GB for drilled & slotted rotors, go here.
For pads, Axxis is highly recommended around here. You can purchase it here.

Regarding your dealer charging $450 for complete replacement of OE front & rear rotors & pads, this is a fair quote if it includes labor. Or you can purchase the above upgraded pads & rotors and take it to an indy shop, or do it yourself even if you are handy.

 

[slimebucket]

www.ecstuning.com

Rich :wink:

They have GREAT brakes upgrades and OEM iteams

 

[darisgin]

My dealership quoted me $450 for rotors/pads too--for the REARS ONLY! (I laughed.)

I second the GB or ecstuning with local install.

 

[aschendel]

the B2B warrenty covers pads/rotors until 50K, for some model years. i just got mine done (free, whee!) at the stealer w/ 25K miles on it... something you might want to make sure your not covered by before you pay for it.

 

[The Swami]

the B2B warrenty covers pads/rotors until 50K, for some model years. i just got mine done (free, whee!) at the stealer w/ 25K miles on it... something you might want to make sure your not covered by before you pay for it.

Well, that's not the case for 2001.5's which fall under the old Bumper-2-Bumper and Powertrain Warranty. Your best bet is to find a quality Audi/VW Mechanic and provide them with quality rotors and pads. If you purchased your car new, it's time to flush that brake-fluid to remove air and debris from the lines. After viewing some of the previous posts, I think the ClubB5 Massive have steered you in the right direction. I would buy my rotors from ECSTuning or the S_Klass Group Buy and a set of PBR/Axxis Deluxe-Plus pads from Zeckhausen Racing. Visit a local Auto Parts shop and see if you can find some Castrol LMA brake fluid or you can buy good old Ate Type 200 from an online vendor. Now as far as pricing, labor rates vary! A set of 4 plain-faced rotors and pads should run you around $260.00US for the parts. Estimate about 2 hours of shop labor for the pad and rotor install, but don't forget about your brake-flush.

Good luck, and you will save a boatload from buying parts online and using a quality mechanic for the labor.

Will aka The Swami

 

[geordie]

Do it yourself, the fronts are easy. Not as easy as a euroswitch but 10 bolts (wheels) two alen bolts (calipers) two screws (disks) and everything is off. I got bad brake work done once and never trusted my life to someone else's brake work since. Turning rotors is a waste of time, money and brake disk material so don't do that either.

After 30 seconds of looking, parts4vws has front slotted disks and Ferodo pads for $265.

http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=11.3PS(B5)Ferodo


If you take this oportunity to go to 12.3" fronts (if your wheels will allow) that's still only $430 for the disks, caliper carriers and pads from them.

http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=12.3B5/Ferodo



"Brake jobs" are the biggest money spinner for independent shops and, not surprisingly, the biggest rip-off for consumers.

Everything fits together really well, so long as everything is bolted on in the obvious way there's no reason to fear doing your own brakes. The only "unusual" tool you need is a 7mm alen wrench IIRC.

 

[dc2002]

Another :thumbup: for http://www.ecstuning.com. I went with the ECS slotted front and rears which are also cadmium plated for rust resistance and the Mintex Red Box pads all around.

Very nice setup - a little less dust than OEM.

Total cost was like ~$320 for everything - shipped. I did it myself too.

 

[slimebucket]

I bought new back rotors and pads from ECS Tuning for $187!(slotted/cross drilled w/ceramic pads)

$480 from the stealership, what a joke!

Rich :wink:

 

[MikekiM]

Check in with purems.com as well. Lots of rotor and pad options there.

 

[ShrinerMonkey]

I just ordered the ECS OEM rear rotors from ECS tuning and ordered Axxis Deluxe Plus rear pads from Zeckhausen racing. Total for both shipped was less than $100.

 

[1.8T4me]

1) What is the deal with slotted and cross drilled rotors? Is that supposed to dissipate heat better to prevent warping?

2) I DO have an extended warranty on my car, up to 8 years or 100,000 miles. I didn't think extended warranties would cover brake pads and rotors since these items are expected to wear down/out with time. BUT, if I buy aftermarket stuff and install it myself, will I void my warranty?


3) Geordie stated "...If you take this oportunity to go to 12.3" fronts (if your wheels will allow)..." What exactly does this mean? Is he suggesting I go to a larger sized rotor?


4) I guess dust from the brake pads can build up on my (stock) wheels and make it unsightly. Is there one brand of pads (Axxis, etc.) that produces less dust than others?


Thanks for all the help and input.

 

[crash893]

1) from what i have heard sloted and drilled* rotors are to help remove dust and gass's that build up under the pad when breaking

ive heard from several people that the drilled rotors are for looks and dont provide much in the way of function but the sloted help a little

2) no by law any aftermarket part has to be proven to cuase the problem

example if you got new breaks and your timeing belt snapped they would have to prove it was becuase of the timeing belt

3) i dont know

4) i hear the creamic pads have less dust

 

[The Swami]

Let's try to answer your questions without going into a full blown Bondurant lecture.

1) Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors are designed to prevent fading. Fading occurs when gasses and even liquids build-up between your brakepads and the rotor surface which causes a slight delay in braking. If you aren't a racer and not used to replacing brake components more often than the daily driver then cross drilled rotors aren't for you. When some cross drilled rotors wear, they tend to crack at the drill points which can cause premature and uneven pad wear and warping. Slotted rotors might be a better bet if this car is your daily driver.

2) Replacing brake components or for that matter any component in your car with an OE replacement will not void your extended warranty.

3) I think Georgie is referencing the A8 rotor upgrade. If your car is running 17's, it's something to consider but remember you are still running the stock calipers so the benefit and improvement isn't much.

4) Non organic compounds; i.e. Semi Metallic (Asbestos), Kevlar/Ceramics, usually produce less brakedust. PBR/Axxis Deluxe-Plus and Metal Masters, EBC Greenstuff, and Hawk HPS pads are considered low-dust pads if they are bedded correctly when installed.

Honestly a nice replacement setup for your car would be Ate Powerdisc rotors up front and some plain-faced rotors in the rear running PBR/Axxis Deluxe-Plus pads all the way around. Also don't forget to flush your brake-fluid!! :thumbup: