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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Need help w/vacuum lines B5 V6

I have a '99 passat with a 2.8 (AHA) engine. After check engine light came on, the Vagcom showed "16795-secondary air injection system...." code.

Visual inspection of the "good old dependable German vacuum lines" showed that at least half were bad :icon_eek: . I replaced almost all of them however, I have problem removing two lines (one of which is visibly cracked). The first line is to the IMT valve located under the coils in front of the engine. It looks like the braided original vacuum line is attached 'inside' the valve (?). Has anyone ever replaced this line? If so, how? The second line is the braided line to the vacuum reservoir. I have a problem pulling it off, and before I break it, I would like to know if there is a secret way of removing it.

Please help; I'm working a little blind w/o a manual (CD ordered!)

Mark
 
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They go bad, so I would just run tape along the line to seal it again and start her up. If that doesn't work, you will need a new one pump. As for that vac line you may have to order that from a dealer, and I don't think it comes with the SAP.
 

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I am not sure what PSON is trying to say I don't think tape is a very good fix.
The vacuum ling to the front of the engine under the ignition coild is to thevacuum actuator for the variable length intake manifold. the vacuum line slips on to a tube that is recessed into the valve. I was able to carefully slice the tube and remove it with some pliers. the slicing hhas to be delicate so not to score the tube on the valve and cause a leak. I took the valve off the front of the engine so i coule get a better look at it. If you do that just catch the spring that is behind the screw on the actuator arm. If you just start taking things apart I am sure you will figure out what I am talking about.
I recommend as do other using silcone to replace you vacuum lines so you won't have to do it again. On the vacuum reservoir I took it off the car and sliced it lengthwise as well. hopefully this will solve your error code
Good luck
 

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Actually, I've been wondering where I can get silicone vacuum hose. I'd like it to be red, but frankly the color is not nearly as important as the tight seal.

Speaking of the tight seal, using ST-140 silicone grease (from Silicones.net)on all rubber/plastic fittings is a great way to prevent pinhole leaks at hose joints, while making it easier to remove hoses in the future and without damaging plastic vacuum valves like lithium grease can.
 

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Actually, I've been wondering where I can get silicone vacuum hose. I'd like it to be red, but frankly the color is not nearly as important as the tight seal.

Speaking of the tight seal, using ST-140 silicone grease (from Silicones.net)on all rubber/plastic fittings is a great way to prevent pinhole leaks at hose joints, while making it easier to remove hoses in the future and without damaging plastic vacuum valves like lithium grease can.

Try http://www.stylinmotors.com, great quality and good customer service.
 
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I am not sure what PSON is trying to say I don't think tape is a very good fix.
The vacuum ling to the front of the engine under the ignition coild is to thevacuum actuator for the variable length intake manifold. the vacuum line slips on to a tube that is recessed into the valve. I was able to carefully slice the tube and remove it with some pliers. the slicing hhas to be delicate so not to score the tube on the valve and cause a leak. I took the valve off the front of the engine so i coule get a better look at it. If you do that just catch the spring that is behind the screw on the actuator arm. If you just start taking things apart I am sure you will figure out what I am talking about.
I recommend as do other using silcone to replace you vacuum lines so you won't have to do it again. On the vacuum reservoir I took it off the car and sliced it lengthwise as well. hopefully this will solve your error code
Good luck

He has a V6 not a 1.8T...I have never heared or seen a spring around or in my SAP (I can be wrong) but thats not a fix its to see if his SAP is broke or not.....for if tthat SAP has been sucking in water and dirty for a long time its shot or soon will be. If hes going to change all those lines and mess around in there for the bigger vac lines not the smaller ones...then it would be great to do it all at the same time. the braided lines will hold tape pretty good to see if the SAP will turn off the CEL. When I did my TB on my V6...I kicked a vac line off and had the load noise and CEL...but when I put it back on (only 20 mins with it off so no dirty or water could seep in) It cleared all the codes and the noise stoped right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to everyone that answered. 'Glucks' - thank you for the insight into the valve and the reservoir. I will take it off this weekend and replace the braided lines.

I have replaced my lines with a 3.5mm silicone hose I got from http://www.hosetechniques.com Got the package in 2 days!!

I also replaced a vacuum check valve (blue/black plastic thing that was also cracked) top of the engine - between the combi valves.

The cell did not go away by itself, but I did cancel it thru the Vagcom and so far so good. I will replace the rest of the original lines with silicon this weekend.

Again, thanks for the help !

Mark
 

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He is not talking about the hose to the SAIP (Secondary Air Injection Pump), he is talking about the hose to the Variable Intake Manifold. The SAIP was just the code that popped up with the bad vacuum lines to the combi valves.

To replace the vacuum line to the variable intake, you have to remove the actuator arm and it does have a spring.
 
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