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lol i kinda feel a little odd about this.. haha. i was lookiing at the second dyno sheet. the one that blew up....
haha.
but seriously with that turbo and that psi you should be able to get mroe out of it IMO...
 

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every flash i have had never has caused a consistent knock, i had one on my k04 but i believe that was a fuel issue) , there may have been another issue that has gotten worse after the flash was taken?

and that is a good? it has been thrown at me many a times by friends into the dsm and honda scene ... i never really have a good answer come to think of it .. lmao!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
stock turbo reflash run mid 12s a/f, even my car right now with colder temp sees 12.1 a/f 24- 25psi 360-375whp.
marc, are you saying that there is somethig wrong with the way my car is running now? Cause the air/fuel ratio is mumbo jumbo to Me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I had the car dynoed again. Now this time I had a full TT catback exhaust. But now fuel pump. We put the wide band on and the air/fuel ratio was perfect. I did pick up a bit on both ends, but the best part was how smooth it was. Look on the first page at my 1st dyno, then this one. You will see how much it smoothed out. And this dyno here is at 18psi all the way. I came out at 282 hp at wheel, and 261 tq at the wheel. But like I said, its smooth and I can really tell the differance in it.


 

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Very nice numbers, now turn the boost up a little and get 300whp
 

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man. i dunno.. prime AFRs are like 11.9ish and u went to 15! thats asking for blowing up. seriously. i have a revo chip in my car. and have developed a loud clatter now. and im wondering wtf is going on now. why does a german ecu chipping company. chip the ecus to run fricken 16-18psi when the stock turbos are innefficient after 12. so... im not quite sure whats going on here lol.
Because way too many people think that idiotic boost = more power. I have had this debate with a couple guys running REVO software and it always comes out like this:
guy: Yeah i'm runnin liek 23psi on K03 w REVO it rulez!
me: you realize that all you're doing is asking to slag your engine right?
guy: no i gets 23psi all the time it doezn't hurt nutin i pwn n00bz allday wit it
Me: but running 23 psi means that all you are doing is blowing hot air
guy: whetev, my bro spikes 30psi and holds 25 all teh way 2 redline w00t w00t!!1!!!!111!!!
me: OK, your call man (roll eyes)
guy (new post one week later): WTF!!!!! engine smokz on start up help!!!
 

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hahahaha.. thats what i figure. i am really looking forward to checking my shaft play on the revo flashed sat i own. when it does blow up...
PS.... once revo flashed...
(bent valve)
hmm... possibly det? idk...
 

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Just out of curiosity, where's the clatter? If you open up the hood does it sound like it's coming from the head at idle? Also, does it lessen once the engine warms up? If so it may be a bad lifter or a cam chain tensioner that's on it's way out. As for A/F ratios I have been mulling the idea of water injection as a means of running a 14.7:1 to 15:1 ratio at WOT without detonating. I currently run this type of system in my 1.8 and can run 20deg advance at 19psi without a hint of timing pull. Assuming you ran a wideband gauge and did a lot of logging I think it may be possible to run close to stoichiometric but at the same time, keep the combustion temps under control so as to not burn valves or detonate.
 

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well hold on a sec ... i have a weird "noise" that i thought was something bad, hear it the most on start up and it excels when gas is given ... i used a stethoscope with pointer and found (from asking others on there thoughts) it was my injectors pulsating (slapping shut) since they had longer travel.... they are bigger 630's .... this is after the head re build and bottom end forged ... so i thought something was wrong.... so far no problems, no check engines ... the only ones i get is when my dumba$$ gets to greedy and over revs
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
ya I still need some work. I dont know whats going on with it. I should already have 300 plus at the wheel now. Its starting to piss me off
 

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Hi Jayson,

I would think that adding two psi boost or so would put you over the 300 whp mark. Now that you have the fuel situation figured out, you should be all set. I would suggest using the "Paris Hilton" approach to tuning ... rich and retarded ;-). Take out timing, add fuel and then bump the boost up. That way, you're approaching things from the safe side. Once you bump the boost up, take out fuel and add the spark back in, but slooowly.

Best of luck, and please post your new results...
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Ive tried everything I can. The more boost I put it at, the less stable the powerband is. It dont make sense to me. I have WAY to much money in this engine and I cant get it to break over 300 at the wheel. Mayne I should just say Fu%k it and do a BIGGER turbo....hehe
 

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How does it go unstable? Does the boost fluctuate? Is it the A/F ratio?

If the computer starts pulling timing out because of knock, you might want to consider a water injection kit. That would be cheaper than a new turbo, and if you did go with a larger turbo in the future, you would have that going for you. Which is nice.

That last graph looked really nice and stable. What happens to it when you increase the pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
when I go over 18psi the power and torgue are all over the place. Up and down, up and down. Atleast at 18psi its a steady climb. We put a wideband on and the air/fuel was sticking around 12. So I think thats good to. So I know I dont need the fuel pump. I just dot know why Im not closer to 300 wheel with my software and using 630 injectors.
 

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Hey Jayson,

So the fuel is OK. Did you log the spark? Maybe what you're seeing is the correction rate that the computer uses -- it hits knock, backs things down, then ramps up timing until it hits knock again, backs down, etc. You might try throwing more fuel at it when you go above 18 psi (like going to 11.5 or 11:1). More fuel should keep detonation down, though you won't make as much power per pound of fuel (your BSFC will increase). At least you will have less chance of knocking. The 60 #/hr injectors should be enough to support 400 hp, even with a BSFC of 0.6.

If the boost fluctuates, the waste gate may need a tweak. Maybe the clutch is slipping?

Do you notice it driving, too?

Edit: Did you look at your plugs? or try gapping them tighter? Sometimes when the pressure gets too high, the fire goes out....
 
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