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nice update! as always, if you need a spare set of hands, let me know - you have my cell number.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I'm sure that if you clean up the k03 and get an air compressor it can double as a blender:lol:
I have a lot of spare engine parts, I'm itching to make something cool. A turbo blender would be sweet :lol:

nice update! as always, if you need a spare set of hands, let me know - you have my cell number.
Will do!

The new lifters arrived which is what I was waiting on to install the cams. I started out letting the lifters soak in oil overnight.


Took the lifters out of the oil and let them drip for about an hour. Then into the head they went.




Camshafts, cam chain tensioner, CCT gasket, and cam seals are all new. I cleaned up the cam bearing caps, cam chain, and bolts before reassembly.




Camshafts, chain, and CCT dropped into place.


I had the original AWM head on the table as a reference to make sure everything was oriented correctly in the AEB head.


Bearing caps torqued down following the Bentley instructions.




I swapped over the cam gear and cam position sensor from the AWM head to the AEB head. I still have a couple more things to button up before the head goes on the block for good but I couldn't resist a quick test fit :)

 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Did some more work the past couple of nights.

Reinstalled the oil cooler/filter flange and a new thermostat in the block.







Next I started installing the head for good. First step was finding top dead center. I used the dial indicator to do so because I didn't want to simply rely on my previous timing marks.


Crank timing gear marked.


ARP head studs and a new head gasket (pistons aren't at TDC in this pic).




Set everything back to TDC and dropped the head on. Torqued the ARP fasteners to 80 ft-lbs in three stages following the sequence in the Bentley.




I installed the IE manual tensioner onto the head and put the new OEM timing belt on. Some shots of all the timing marks (cam sprockets, cam gear, and crank gear)










I spun the engine over three or four times and everything seems good to go :wrench:





 

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Just a heads up loosen and torque the new head bolts about 2-3 times before you call it done. I have seen in high boost situations where people had to retorque them a few times because the head started to lift a little from the studs stretching. I'm sure ARP probobly said to do so in their instructions though. Just in case. Motor is looking great though
 

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Looks great and I wish it was my project, but you did not answer the question about "what is the significance of the baby blue valve cover?" :hmmm:
TomK
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Just a heads up loosen and torque the new head bolts about 2-3 times before you call it done. I have seen in high boost situations where people had to retorque them a few times because the head started to lift a little from the studs stretching. I'm sure ARP probobly said to do so in their instructions though. Just in case. Motor is looking great though
Thanks for the info. The ARP instructions didn't mention any re-torqueing being required. I'll check them after I break in the engine. The ARP head studs aren't torque-to-yield so hopefully there isn't any permanent stretching going on.

Looks great and I wish it was my project, but you did not answer the question about "what is the significance of the baby blue valve cover?" :hmmm:
TomK
I just like the color. Gotta have a little fun with it.

I like your style ... GGG
Nice build!
Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I took advantage of the nice weather this weekend to get some work done. I got the turbo bolted to the engine which was a big milestone for me :)

Turbo and exhaust manifold ready to go on. I picked up a new exhaust manifold gasket and nuts as well.





Everything bolted on including the wastegate and cat pipe. It's all v-band connections which made it super easy.






That's all for now. Super stoked to see this starting to take shape.
 

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I have the same goal for my '00 Passat 1.8T 5 speed (no 4motion :( ) but some time will have to pass until I get in the position to do so... If I don't get to keep this Passat, I'd try to hunt down a '04 W8 stick 4motion +turbo... Longshot, we will see what time brings. Good luck man, subscribed and following closely! :salute:
 

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Really enjoyed reading the thread, very impressive work. Definitely looking forward to seeing the end project.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Did a little bit of work over the past week. I was originally planning on going with a SEM intake manifold but I decided just to go with an AEB intake manifold for budget reasons. I think the AEB manifold will be fine for my power goals.

AEB manifold and a new gasket.


Comparison of the AEB (left) and stock AWM (right) manifold. The ports are noticeable larger on the AEB manifold.


Close-up. The AEB ports are 25mm x 54mm and the AWM ports are 25.5mm x 43mm if anyone was curious.


Bolted the manifold on along with the 1000cc injectors. Also re-installed the timing belt covers, crank dampener pulley, alternator and bracket.





I've started doing some work on the 01E swap too. Instead of swapping out the subframe and finding the right trans mount brackets, I decided I'm just going to make my own brackets to work with the stock subframe and mounts.

Since I figure mocking up the brackets would be a real pain with the trans in the car, I built a simple fixture so I could build them out of the car.


With the 5 speed in position so I can template all the holes.






I traced the outline of the bell housing and drilled out some of the block to trans holes. I'm going to use those to align the 01E.



Six speed in position.


Bolted to the fixture.




Now I just need to build the mounts to connect the bolt holes on the trans to where they need to bolt to the mounts.





Should be easy right? I might be over complicating this but building my own mounts is more fun than swapping subframes and I was looking for an excuse to use the welder. :wrench:
 

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I thought the standard 01E right side trans bracket should fit the current subframe and it's only the driver's side that needs to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I thought the standard 01E right side trans bracket should fit the current subframe and it's only the driver's side that needs to be changed.
Hmm I'll have to look into this. I don't have the 01E brackets but that would certainly save me some work.
 
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