I believe car is from Europe and has the blue square coolant temperature sensor. Other 1999s and later have green round sensor.
my 1999 passat is gushing coolant out behind the engine/ above the transmission.
how do i find this leak? its a 1.8t. i have coolant temperature sensor out right now. i can't see a bad hose from above or below.seals seem ok on sensor.coolant is clean. so is oil. never overheated before it bursted somewhere while driving. the red cooling system warning light started flashing. upon reaching home, there was a hissing sound of hot air release while coolant gushed down off of transmission to the ground. it was too hot to deal with. i don't want to put CTS back in yet but may have to, to find it. its a tight fit
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APH stamped on the head, probably second hand head from a new beetle. AEB in the code on the label at the back of the valve cover. Probably the valve cover that came on this car from the factory. 1999 North American also have the blue square CTS from the factory. What makes you think it's from Europe? Some people/shops like those crimp clamps.
I believe the APH engine was used in the 2000 Beetle.
Edit: Didn't see Steve's post
Edit: Didn't see Steve's post
I was thinking it's euro cuz it's got original German spare tire and vw battery. Don't Really know. If what I read is correct be switched mid year 1999 from blue square to green round on all models. The green one is listed as compatible with my car and all other 99s on some parts sites. Thanks for info on head. Would not have noticed.
All B5's sold in the US were built in Europe, hence the European battery and German spare tire. (Although it's probably a replacement VW battery, as I doubt the original would still work after all these years.)I was thinking it's euro cuz it's got original German spare tire and vw battery. Don't Really know. If what I read is correct be switched mid year 1999 from blue square to green round on all models. The green one is listed as compatible with my car and all other 99s on some parts sites. Thanks for info on head. Would not have noticed.
@I Will be trying the g12 if there is no more leaks. I It looks like it has had only water for about 10 years. It's a 1999. I bought last year with only 37000 miles on it. I Have learned a lot about sludge and turbos since. Every thing on car is original or warranty work only. Changed to 710n dv and pcv and got oil to stop blowing out oil cap and some turbo lines. Imo on sludge is too much slow/easy driving. Run the turbo hard regularly. It's supposed to be used. Make sure to hit at least 6k rpm. I believe this clears out sludge and if some is sucked through at a high rpm it will grind it through to small pebbles. the first oil filter I changed was the original manufacturers size. Vw changed to larger oil filter to combat sludge issues around 12 years ago. I've
What makes you think it only had water all these years? Was what you drained rusty water?Changed the oil ten times since March, about 11000 miles. It still comes out black with small black pebbles after only 1000 miles. I've used 6+ bottles of sea foam in crank case to help. It Is staying a little cleaner, longer each change. :smiley:my first car was a 1987 gti:smiley: 1.8 engines are great. This sight has been very helpful with old threads covering the issues I've had so far. Could do without the spam to email tho:grin:
Do an oil pressure test and at a minmum drop the pan to inspect/replace the screen and oil pump. Use only the proper spec oil and change that and OF regularly. Use the largest OF you can find.
Only 37K miles (over 15 years!) and spitting coke bits already?
Stop using seafoam and don't believe the stories about what 6000 rpm will do to coked oil. Sustained high rpms will push even the better oils past their limits. With coke in the system already you want to keep the oil as cool as possible.
What are your plans for this car?
At 37000 miles 15 years old. I believe most mileage came earlier on. I bought from rich foreign homeowners in kahala area on Oahu. People who own homes there live somewhere else during non winter months. Battery is for sure original. It's dated. I'm Just using it to get around. I stopped sea foam, it only can help so much. Waiting longer between each change now. It was a little rusty in color inside cooling system. People in Hawaii mostly use water because temperatures are not extreme enough to require anti freezes. With lack of regular servicing and used a couple months a year I don't think they cared or knew enough.
Anything to know about aph head difference than the aeb original? Good bad same. I haven't found any opinions on that elsewhere
Again, the oil filter I first replaced was the smaller original manufacturers specs. I'll check exact year they changed specs. I scraped sludge out of engines oil cap opening with my finger. I knew nothing of sludge issues until I owned it.
The year it changed seems to be 2005. The Oil had not been changed since at least before then or the filter would be the updated one. It Is much more fun to drive vws at higher rpms. The turbo peak range is 4500 to 5500. Oahu is a lot of traffic driving. Almost never use the turbo. Its why I recommend driving it hard on a regular basis. The Cars also heat up a lot in traffic with ac on. Higher speed is more air flow to keep it cooler. I have read multiple stories of sludge damage to cars under 40k miles.
Sludge often forms when engines DON'T get hot enough to boil off water and other blow-by contaminants.
The 1.8T is designed to get into boost way down low--max torque is at 1900-2000 rpm. The turbo is designed to increase low end grunt, not top-end speed.
Pull the valve cover and look at how much sludge and varnish is built up in there. If it's bad, pull a cam cap or two and check for scoring.
If that all looks good, then just do a few shorter OCIs with 502 spec oil.
If you find a ton of sludge or scoring, the bottom end will need to be checked through a pan drop. Not the simplest procedure.
You should always use some antifreeze--G12. At least 40%, mixed with distiller water. It will prevent corrosion in the system.
The 1.8T is designed to get into boost way down low--max torque is at 1900-2000 rpm. The turbo is designed to increase low end grunt, not top-end speed.
Pull the valve cover and look at how much sludge and varnish is built up in there. If it's bad, pull a cam cap or two and check for scoring.
If that all looks good, then just do a few shorter OCIs with 502 spec oil.
If you find a ton of sludge or scoring, the bottom end will need to be checked through a pan drop. Not the simplest procedure.
You should always use some antifreeze--G12. At least 40%, mixed with distiller water. It will prevent corrosion in the system.
Nil, Zero, Zilch.I stopped sea foam, it only can help so much.
If it had just water in the cooling system for long, the head etc would be badly corroded and not usable.
The correct G12/13 coolant is a corrosion inhibitor as well as antifreeze.
The APH is like the other 1.8t heads in that it's small port. The AEB head has larger ports. This isn't a huge problem but will probably effect maximum performance somewhat. I'm assuming they kept the stock AEB intake manifold.Anything to know about APH head difference than the ARB original?
Your AEB style intake manifold will have wide ported runners delivering airflow into the head. The head itself will have smaller ports. Where the two parts meet there will be an abrupt size transition. This creates turbulence that impedes airflow.
This is the two sizes back to back for comparison.
The APH head will have a small port and passages machined into the exhaust ports for the SAIP system. This is what the previous mechanic was trying to block closed with those parts. The AEB has no SAIP system and doesn't use that port. They make block-off plates that fit the stock opening and fastener points. You want an air tight seal at that port.
^Ahh, an installation of marginally compatible cylinder head hack so we can get it running and out of the shop and get paid, makes itself known.
I gave up after 3 minutes of looking for that funky-shaped stud on the back of my stock AEB head the other day. :O
I gave up after 3 minutes of looking for that funky-shaped stud on the back of my stock AEB head the other day. :O
the pic on post 11 shows a broken stud. did you have to break it to remove the old one?
google helicoil because if what you did on pic 15 fails, you'll be needing a new head(job).
google helicoil because if what you did on pic 15 fails, you'll be needing a new head(job).
Thanks for the excellent feedback back. To update. When I turned car on again less than 5 minutes of shutting it off to help find leak the cel got triggered:grin: now after finishing repairs the cel shut itself off after only about 10-15 miles in 3-4 start ups and cel shut off. :smiley: I also triggered it 2-3000 miles ago and got it to shut off about 70 miles after replacing a purge valve. When unhooking battery my car sometimes will run funny when in gear while stopped, especially reverse. This problem will correct it self in 30-70 miles. I've done it many times.
:joy:no nick. I almost don't want to admit it but I broke it by accident. got too frustrated. Had a bad feeling when I broke it. Looked like a very expensive lesson. All good for now
What holds that bolt/plug in the combi valve hole now ?
You should fit the proper blanking plate and gasket.
You should fit the proper blanking plate and gasket.
That's probably the ECM getting cleared from lack of power and forgetting learned fuel trims. Without fuel trim correction, it runs a bit rough. Then after a bit of driving, it re-learns how much to correct fueling and begins to run smooth again.When unhooking battery my car sometimes will run funny when in gear while stopped, especially reverse. This problem will correct it self in 30-70 miles.
It'd be interesting to see what your trims are (group 32) after a day or so of driving.
Fuel Trim Info - Ross-Tech Wiki
Best explanation I've heard yet Steve. I Have read some who say it will reset on it's own and others who say it will not. Cel or battery disconnect issues. I broke 2 timing belts on my 1987 gti and didn't have the $ to pay someone else to fix it so I know a little about just the 1.8. The Turbo is new to me. Most things are very similar if not the same. I Have Been seriously thinking about buying a ross tech. for similar reasons.
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