how do i find this leak? its a 1.8t. i have coolant temperature sensor out right now. i can't see a bad hose from above or below.seals seem ok on sensor.coolant is clean. so is oil. never overheated before it bursted somewhere while driving. the red cooling system warning light started flashing. upon reaching home, there was a hissing sound of hot air release while coolant gushed down off of transmission to the ground. it was too hot to deal with. i don't want to put CTS back in yet but may have to, to find it. its a tight fit
my 1999 passat is gushing coolant out behind the engine/ above the transmission.
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
taking in and out is a major pain
Joined
·
16,440 Posts
On the 99 1.8t, it's not all that bad. Try the same job on the newer cars with more plumbing crossing that area!
The CTS fits into a plastic flange (Volkswagen Passat B5 FWD 1.8T Engine Cooling Coolant Flanges - ECS Tuning).
The flange bolts to the back of the head and seals with an o-ring. Two other hoses attach to that flange and seal with o-rings. The CTS and sometimes another blank plug fit into the top of the flange and seal with... you guessed it, o-rings.
You may have a failed o-ring. A cracked or warped flange. A ruptured hose.
The CTS fits into a plastic flange (Volkswagen Passat B5 FWD 1.8T Engine Cooling Coolant Flanges - ECS Tuning).
The flange bolts to the back of the head and seals with an o-ring. Two other hoses attach to that flange and seal with o-rings. The CTS and sometimes another blank plug fit into the top of the flange and seal with... you guessed it, o-rings.
You may have a failed o-ring. A cracked or warped flange. A ruptured hose.
when I try to screw it in, it isn't catching. It was covered by a thin metal sheet bolted over it. Is it supposed to screw in or does the metal sheet hold it in? The sheet was nearly torn off from the burst of coolant that came out next/under it
Joined
·
16,440 Posts
I'm not sure what that part is. It looks like a mount or a sender. Are there any after market gauges in the car? Can you show a picture of where this part lives?
Big hole on left is for flange, hole on right for the part above. :grin:that is a headless bolt in center. I Can't get the rest out. I'm hoping to use hole on bottom right to hold it down with extended piece to flange. I will let you know if it works.
Attachments
Joined
·
4,326 Posts
Seems like that area has a bracket for supporting the recirculated crankcase gas (PCV) tube. I'll need to have a closer look at what's under my hood in that area. Do you have a catch can instead of the stock metal tube here?
Use a pair of vice grips to tighten (yes tighten) that stud a little (you'll feel it move when the threads "wake up") before trying to loosen it. If the stuck stud were mine, I'd use a dremel to grind a couple flat spots on opposite sides of that bolt.
If you get things back together this eve, don't forget to use the proper G12++ or G13 coolant...too many things go wrong down the road if you don't.
Good Luck
Use a pair of vice grips to tighten (yes tighten) that stud a little (you'll feel it move when the threads "wake up") before trying to loosen it. If the stuck stud were mine, I'd use a dremel to grind a couple flat spots on opposite sides of that bolt.
If you get things back together this eve, don't forget to use the proper G12++ or G13 coolant...too many things go wrong down the road if you don't.
Good Luck
Got leak to stop :clap: but temperature gauge on dash in car is not working. Ran car for a little while and doesn't seem to be overheating. Guessing it's the coolant temperature sensor. Light on dash blinks if it or plug on reservoir is not connected.
This is my solution to broken bolt head. I did one up top also for extra support. The plug in middle is held in by the custom pieces above and below. It can't be pulled out by hand. This looks like the plug tip goes into the oil part of head not a coolant tube. It May not have been needed to be unscrewed to get out. The threads are perfect and smooth. I don't think there is some left in there. It spun pretty easy
This is my solution to broken bolt head. I did one up top also for extra support. The plug in middle is held in by the custom pieces above and below. It can't be pulled out by hand. This looks like the plug tip goes into the oil part of head not a coolant tube. It May not have been needed to be unscrewed to get out. The threads are perfect and smooth. I don't think there is some left in there. It spun pretty easy
Attachments
When I took it out. The Reason I took it out is to get at the broken bolt. I was able to get vice grips on it but it was stripping and figured it would break again. Using as a stud to hold it in the proper spot would be better to try first.
I Will be trying the g12 if there is no more leaks. I It Looks like it has had only water for about 10 years. It's a 1999. I bought last year with only 37000 miles on it. I Have learned a lot about sludge and turbos since. Every thing on car is original or warranty work only. Changed to 710n dv and pcv and got oil to stop blowing out oil cap and some turbo lines. Imo on sludge is too much slow/easy driving. Run the turbo hard regularly. It's supposed to be used. Make sure to hit at least 6k rpm. I believe this clears out sludge and if some is sucked through at a high rpm it will grind it through to small pebbles. the first oil filter I changed was the original manufacturers size. Vw changed to larger oil filter to combat sludge issues around 12 years ago. I've
Changed the oil ten times since March, about 11000 miles. It still comes out black with small black pebbles after only 1000 miles. I've used 6+ bottles of sea foam in crank case to help. It Is staying a little cleaner, longer each change. :smiley:my first car was a 1987 gti:smiley: 1.8 engines are great. This sight has been very helpful with old threads covering the issues I've had so far. Could do without the spam to email tho:grin:
Joined
·
16,440 Posts
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
