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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to introduce myself and car/project to every one here. I know this is not the place to post new member treads but I also have a few tech. questions.

First the car.
No I did not forget to add another 0 to the $1000 in the subject bar.
I picked up my car from a person that I used to work with. The :crazy: blew the engine because he never put oil in the engine nor did oil changes. (Little Note: This was his 2nd engine!!!) From what I gather he went 40,000mi without changing the oil before the camshafts sized in the head, tore the timing belt in half, spun the camshaft sprocket, bent the valves for the 2nd cylinder, wiped out the turbo, wiped the crank shaft, and burned the main baring caps black. He did not feel too comfortable spending $4000+ to have the dealer put a used engine into the car, so he sold it to me.

I was able to meet up with a vw tech. where I live and he (by chance) had a low mileage AEB long block and head for the car. Even though the engine was low-mi. I still tore it down and replaced main baring, rod baring, rings, and honed the cylinder walls. All-in-all. it was a pretty straightforward build up. The only problems I ran into were finding parts and finding out where a lot of the fasteners went because the dealer removed the top end trying to find out what was wrong with the engine (I purchased the car and a 50lb. box of engine parts). Total cost for engine, head, parts includeing: head gasket set, newhead bolts, filters, and turbo. $600.00

Okay here are the questions.
The engine is running fine ( 3000mi and it did not blow up) but I have a couple of issues that I cannot find any answers to.
1. I get engine vibration in the gas pedal

I replaced the snub mount last weekend and it helped a lot but it is still noticeable.

2. Right after I come to a stop the engine lopes for about 1 sec. [or] when I press the gas but go back to the brake quickly it does the same thing.

I have not had the car scanned yet. In chilton manual (I do not have Bentley) it describes that if power from the battery is disconnected, there is a chance the dealer will have to re-program idle, and other programs. I was just wondering if anyone else has run into this problem before.

3. The tiptronic trans clunks when put into reverse (it jerks the whole car) and clunks when you take your foot off the gas at cruising speed.

I did have to disconnect the trans-cooler lines from the front clip when removing/installing the engine, and lost about a half quart of fluid from the sealed trans. I did replace the fluid via the fill cap located on the trans pan and followed the correct procedure according to the repair book. (Car level, running in park, trans fluid temp 90-120 f, fill until it dribbles out). Just wondering if there could be a sensor that is faulty, bad rear trans mounts or if I have another " project" for the summer :D


Any help will be very appreciated
 

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CheapB5 said:
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to introduce myself and car/project to every one here. I know this is not the place to post new member treads but I also have a few tech. questions.

First the car.
No I did not forget to add another 0 to the $1000 in the subject bar.
I picked up my car from a person that I used to work with. The :crazy: blew the engine because he never put oil in the engine nor did oil changes. (Little Note: This was his 2nd engine!!!) From what I gather he went 40,000mi without changing the oil before the camshafts sized in the head, tore the timing belt in half, spun the camshaft sprocket, bent the valves for the 2nd cylinder, wiped out the turbo, wiped the crank shaft, and burned the main baring caps black. He did not feel too comfortable spending $4000+ to have the dealer put a used engine into the car, so he sold it to me.

I was able to meet up with a vw tech. where I live and he (by chance) had a low mileage AEB long block and head for the car. Even though the engine was low-mi. I still tore it down and replaced main baring, rod baring, rings, and honed the cylinder walls. All-in-all. it was a pretty straightforward build up. The only problems I ran into were finding parts and finding out where a lot of the fasteners went because the dealer removed the top end trying to find out what was wrong with the engine (I purchased the car and a 50lb. box of engine parts). Total cost for engine, head, parts includeing: head gasket set, newhead bolts, filters, and turbo. $600.00

Okay here are the questions.
The engine is running fine ( 3000mi and it did not blow up) but I have a couple of issues that I cannot find any answers to.
1. I get engine vibration in the gas pedal

I replaced the snub mount last weekend and it helped a lot but it is still noticeable.

2. Right after I come to a stop the engine lopes for about 1 sec. [or] when I press the gas but go back to the brake quickly it does the same thing.

I have not had the car scanned yet. In chilton manual (I do not have Bentley) it describes that if power from the battery is disconnected, there is a chance the dealer will have to re-program idle, and other programs. I was just wondering if anyone else has run into this problem before.

3. The tiptronic trans clunks when put into reverse (it jerks the whole car) and clunks when you take your foot off the gas at cruising speed.

I did have to disconnect the trans-cooler lines from the front clip when removing/installing the engine, and lost about a half quart of fluid from the sealed trans. I did replace the fluid via the fill cap located on the trans pan and followed the correct procedure according to the repair book. (Car level, running in park, trans fluid temp 90-120 f, fill until it dribbles out). Just wondering if there could be a sensor that is faulty, bad rear trans mounts or if I have another " project" for the summer :D

Any help will be very appreciated
Congrats on your car, and welcome to Club :b5: :drink:


You may want to verify that you replaced the transmission fluid with genuine VW Transmission fluid. I don't think you can use anything else. A few members have experimented with one other brand of high performance synthetic fluid, but that is it. The vibration could be any one of the engine mounts, so you should check all of them. What do you mean by "Lopes". If you mean that it is slightly hesitant before you take off, that is probably the turbo spooling up (turbo lag, and its pretty normal). That is about all the advice/help I can offer. If anything, you get a free bump from me :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your insight. I got the fluid from VW (after 15min. of the tech telling me that i cant fill a sealed trans). what i mean by lopes is the engine drops below idle by about 1-200 RPM then comes back up to idle then drops again this happens for about 1-2 sec. after the initial 1-2 sec right after i come to a stop the car idles fine at 900 rpm.
 

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My car lopes too on takeoff but its because Im not giving it enough gas (have a 5spd) so I usually have to slip the clutch a bit less but then the car shoots off sometimes..heh..
 

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Hey CheapB5... Have you done anything to the Throttle Body? I Removed and Cleaned mine and after I was done, I had a simillar sympton. I did the "Turn Key to run position With-out the motor running for 3 minutes. Driver's side door must bo open....Left foot Held high in the air.... Singing the Battly Hymn of France (BTW - this mainly consist of you laying face down on the floor while yelling "Don't Shoot...We give up" with a mouth full of nasty tasting wine.. Until the enemy walksover you...Then as they pass you, you try to sell them some souveniers and more crappy wine)... Anyway... Oncen I did that...or mostly that, The idle bounce thing went happily on its merry way to offer anoyance to some other unsuspecting Passat Owner. So, spread the joy and give it a try! :lol:

SalManilla
 

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welcome and that is a great price even with a blown motor.....sometimes i wish mine would blow up so i would not feel soo bad rebuilding it(just kidding) :wink: :thumbup:
 

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If you already know about the Bentley, you probably already know about the VAG-Com. For about $200 and your own laptop, you can buy a VAG-Com, and another $70 for a Bentley on DVD, you will get a TON of info. When you read a check engine code, you can search for it on the Bentley and get VW's diagnostic steps. On the VAG-Com, not only do you get the codes, but you can log all the engine management measures while driving and review them in an Excel spredsheet. It is really worth it.

I have a '99, too. Hope it goes well with yours!
 

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welcome to the club. congrats on a great buy and good work on the rebuild :thumbup:
 

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Wow, you're really diving right in! Good Work! Welcome to CB5! :bow:

I agree with "Sal" that you probably need to do a TBA (Throttle Body Adaptation). The way he described is the "quick" way, there's a more thorough way described in the Bentley. (Is this info in the "Info" forum? - if not, it should be...) And yes, a VAG-COM is essential.

I have experimented a LOT with different fuel pressures and injectors,
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63042
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=29579
and the "lope" you are describing is something that happens nearly everytime I richen the mixture. It takes a little bit for the O2 sensor feedback mechanism to lean the mixture back out, then it goes away. The fact that yours is not going away on its own is indicative that a TBA is in order. Another thing may be worn out O2 sensors - they could have gotten fouled with the results of the previous owner and may not be giving your ECU the proper signals.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks everyone for there insight. I will have to try the "quick" tba when i leave today. I will report back later to tell you if it worked or not.

to tell you the truth the reason that i did not get my car initialy scaned from the dealer after the build up was because i had all intentions to buy a vag-com and bently, so that is defently the next thing on the list.

I was actualy thinking about streathenig the engine and adding hi-perf parts but there were two reasons that i chose to go the stock route. Im in college and travel between school and my famly and girlfriends house which is about an hour and a half away on weekends and wanted the car to last well into my first job. I was not sure of the long term effects hi perf parts would be on the engine. the second reason is that i alredy own a hi perf car. This is my Thunderbird SC WideBody, nicknamed Space Ship.


Any way I will check back later.
 

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I had the Loping problem in my 300z and it was due to the O2 sensor. Maybe it could be that?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok did the quick tba and it worked for about 2 min. but it then went back to loping It very well could be a fouled 02 sensor. wouldent a bad 02 sensor cause my check engine light to come on. I have bad 02 sensors in other cars i have had and the check eingine light would come on to tell me something is screwed up. :???:
 

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yeah, a bad 02 sensor would turn the mil on unless it was previously cleared, put it on a diagnostic machine and look at the memory codes, or leave your key in the on position, but not started for three minutes, that should reset your ecu and any malfunctions should turn the light back on.

welcome to the club!!
 

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Did you clean the throttle body too. If the guy did not change the oil for 40k, you dont know how bad that could look. Also, the clunk going into reverse seems like it would be a mount.
 
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