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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This sticky is for those of you who continually seem to ask the same question of, "How do I connect my sub?" This set of instructions is for those of you with a Monsoon amp.

I am not responsible of you do anything adverse to your car, stereo, etc. If it burns up, if you blow a fuse, explode an amp, or any other thing that is calamitous or causes you physical harm, destroys something in your car, etc - the blame is on you, as these instructions are only a guideline.

Buy a stereo Line-Out Convertor (LOC) and a power wire (gage is dependent on how big your sub is...).
Mount the amp in the desired location.
Run a power wire from the battery, with a fuse within one foot of the battery for the amp, and run it to the location of your amp.
Ground the amp within one foot or so of the physical location of the amp, and use a star washer on the ground to ensure good connectivity.

Connect the LOC to the Monsoon amp (if you have one), using pins 1 to 4 of the Green connector on the Monsoon amp (see below). Connect the LOC to your amp.

Run a remote wire to turn the amp on - if you have a rear CD changer, you can use either the grey wire (or yellow wire - it will only have one or the other). If you do not have a rear-mounted CD changer, use the blue/white wire off the head unit.

Test it, judiciously at first...

Here's the wires out of the [Monsoon] amp on the green connector:

1 + Left Rear Woofer Pur
2 - Left Rear Woofer Brn
3 + Right Rear Woofer Pur
4 - Right Rear Woofer Brn
5 + Left Rear Tweeter Blu
6 - Left Rear Tweeter Brn/Blu
7 + Right Rear Tweeter Blu
8 - Right Rear Tweeter Brn/Blu
9 + Left Front Tweeter Red/Grn
10 - Right Front Tweeter Brn/Red
11 - Left Front Tweeter Brn/Grn
12 + Right Front Tweeter Red
13 - Left Front Woofer Brn/Ylw
14 + Left Front Woofer Ylw
15 - Right Front Woofer Brn/Wht
16 + Right Front Woofer Wht

Here's the wires in (from the HU) on the grey connector just as a reference...

14 + In Left Rear Blu
15 - In Left Rear Brn
17 - In Right Rear Brn
18 + In Right Rear Grn
20 + In Left Front Ylw
21 - In Left Front Brn
23 - In Right Front Brn
24 + In Right Front Red
 

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if i use my cd changer as the remote.. will i need the LOC?

will i lose function of my cd changer if i do this?
 

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If I have the cable connection in the trunk for the CD changer, but there's no changer there, will the remote wire in that plug still work? I would assume so but just thought I'd ask.
 

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Ok, I just installed my sub and amp and answered my own question, the remote wire works fine. However, I just ran across an issue that I thought I'd post here in case others run into the problem:

If you use an amplifier with high-level inputs instead of a Line-Out Converter, you'll need some caps on the positive speaker lines between the Monsoon amp and the aftermarket amp. If you don't use them, the rear speakers and sub will not work each time you turn the car or head unit off then back on. If you unplug the high-level inputs and plug them back in while it's running, they will work, but having to pop the trunk and unplug/plug in the inputs each time is kinda silly.
 

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Here's the wires in (from the HU) on the grey connector just as a reference...

14 + In Left Rear Blu
15 - In Left Rear Brn
17 - In Right Rear Brn
18 + In Right Rear Grn
20 + In Left Front Ylw
21 - In Left Front Brn
23 + In Right Front Brn
24 - In Right Front Red
Are you sure about 23 and 24? The BRN is usually the "-". So, I think you may have the + and - reversed in that pair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Are you sure about 23 and 24? The BRN is usually the "-". So, I think you may have the + and - reversed in that pair.
if that were the case, there'd be a whole lot of browns in the bundle for the speakers. take another look at how many speaker grounds there are.

I believe that one wire is brown in the bundle on the grey input connector. I pulled this from another respected poster here in this forum - it is possible that it was incorrect.
 

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Actually, there are a whole lotta browns on the speaker bundle.

All of the "-" wires are either solid brown or brown with a stripe. And, the power ground, which resides in the same connector as the speaker bundle, is also brown.

So, it seems that VW likes to use brown to signify ground/- wires.

On the input connector, every pair is a solid color and a brown. It doesn't make sense that 3 of them would have a brown -, and just the one would have a brown +.

As such, logic dictates that the + and - designations for 23 and 24 are incorrect.

Hey, even respected posters make typos. :) (I do remember seeing a TSB from VW stating that one channel was wired out of phase by mistake at the factory. Perhaps that had something to do with his mistake, if not a simple typo?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Actually, there are a whole lotta browns on the speaker bundle.

All of the "-" wires are either solid brown or brown with a stripe. And, the power ground, which resides in the same connector as the speaker bundle, is also brown.

So, it seems that VW likes to use brown to signify ground/- wires.

On the input connector, every pair is a solid color and a brown. It doesn't make sense that 3 of them would have a brown -, and just the one would have a brown +.

As such, logic dictates that the + and - designations for 23 and 24 are incorrect.

Hey, even respected posters make typos. :) (I do remember seeing a TSB from VW stating that one channel was wired out of phase by mistake at the factory. Perhaps that had something to do with his mistake, if not a simple typo?)
do you have a monsoon, gary? if so, look at the harness on the grey plug and write it up. otherwise, stop yer bitchin. ;)
 

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I just checked the the signals in all the pairs in the amp input connector, and sure enough the polarity is reversed on pins 23 & 24 above.

Logic, as it usually does, prevails. :D

FYI - the colors, channel designations, and pin numbers are all correct. But, + and - are reversed on pins 23 & 24.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
and as per our PM discussion, gary, pins 23 and 24 may be intentionally reversed by the acoustics engineers to change the phase at your ears due to the difference in distances from the speakers to your ears (thus put the signals more in phase) - so to all who read this, if you find your audio in the mid band is a little muddy, try reversing them - if not, leave it.
 

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Mmmm. Not a good idea. If a user is adding an amp, or some other equipment to the wires in that connector, they should definitely reverse the + and - that is written in the chart above, and consider the brown to be the -.

180deg out of phase is just plain bad. It will not compensate for the distance of the speaker from the driver. (VW wouldn't do that either, as they need to consider everybody who will be in the car listening, not just the driver.) It will not make the mids muddy, either. It will quite simply remove the bass, and cause the overall audio quality to sound thin.

The author of the original post that you got that chart from either made a typo, or the phase on that channel was reversed at the head end mistakenly by VW which was a known issue in some model years, and he was unwittingly correcting it at the amp connector.

But, as you point out in your original post, and your most recent as well, it's a good idea to do a thorough test, just to make sure.
 

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has anyone consulted a Bentley or wiring schematic on this yet?
 

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The Bentley doesn't list phasing on that connector for some weird reason. (That's the first thing I checked when I started planning my upgrade.) It does list phasing on the power/speaker out connector, though.

But, I can tell you without any doubt at all that pin 23 Brown is Right Front -, and pin 24 Red is Right Front +, at least on my 2003.
 

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Re: Bentley diagram.

I went back and compared the pin outs on the radio connector in a non-Monsoon system (diagram Y600, 601) which shows polarity , to the pinouts on the Monsoon system (Y632), as the head units are the same in both systems. And, pin 24 Red is indeed + and pin 23 Brown is -.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mmmm. Not a good idea. If a user is adding an amp, or some other equipment to the wires in that connector, they should definitely reverse the + and - that is written in the chart above, and consider the brown to be the -.

180deg out of phase is just plain bad. It will not compensate for the distance of the speaker from the driver. (VW wouldn't do that either, as they need to consider everybody who will be in the car listening, not just the driver.) It will not make the mids muddy, either. It will quite simply remove the bass, and cause the overall audio quality to sound thin.
and that's exactly why most mid-range to high end head units have a polarity swap feature. at the frequency regime represented by 1/2 wave length (distance-wise) from the mid-bass speakers in the lower front doors of our cars (and I'm speaking from personal experience, because I've had it happen), most guitar parts (and NOT bass parts as suggested in the quote above) will be destructively interfered with by virtue of them arriving at the driver's ears out of phase (the end result is the two signals arrive at your ears out of phase with one another and cancel). I've personally seen it and had to fix it.

this thread was originally placed here (and stickied at the top of the forum) to handle questions about how to connect a sub to a monsoon amp. I corrected the original post at the top of the forum. to that end, I'm locking it as the the discussion (for the original intent of the post) has gotten off topic (after all, it's a how-to!).
 
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