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I got a 2001 VW Passat B5.5 2.8L v6 and i just did the timing belt and components. I decided I didnt want to make my life easier and remove the cam sprockets. so I had cam lock tool on and crank lock tool on for car’s TDC. Everything went off smooth, when putting new belt on, I started crank, then roller, then driver cam, then under water pump, then when i was trying to get it on passenger cam I was struggling bad... After attempting to put it on for an hour, I decided to take cam lock off, move just that one cam barley clockwise to get that belt on, after belt was on I immediately moved it back countclockwise then put back the cam lock tool and tensioned up the belt via the tensioner.
Then to test it all, I remove cam and crank locks and rotated it by hand 2 times. Both times it looks good and both were looking like TDC. However when i started it up it was misfiring on 6 only. I tried to run it as long as I comfortably i could, (which was like 10-15s) to see if any other code would throw. Only misifirng on 6.
What do you guys think?
Im off a tooth but no cam/crank code?
Just bad timing for a wire/spark plug to go bad?

Let me know, i’ve never been off timing before so im not sure what i’d throw or if it’d even start, etc.
 

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Gotta ask, was their any misses or misfire codes before you started the timing belt job?
Exactly what codes are showing up?

The easiest way to diagnose,

First swap out the #6 wire with another wire.
If the miss moves to whatever cylinder you put #6 wire on, then you know its the wire.

If no change. Put your #6 wire back on cylinder #6 and put the swapped wire back where it came from.


Second, swap out the spark plug same as the plug wire.
If the miss moves to whatever cylinder you put #6 plug in, then you know its the plug.

If no change. Put your #6 plug back in cylinder #6 and put the swapped plug back where that came from.


Third, swap out the fuel injector same as above.
If the miss moves to whatever cylinder you put #6 injector in, then you know its the injector.

If no change. Put your #6 injector back in cylinder #6 and put the swapped injector back where that came from.


The ignition coil pack shares 2 cylinders per coil. The shared cylinders are as follows (with coil pack assembly installed on car)
5-3 left side coil
4-2 center coil
1-6 right side coil


Cylinders are:
right bank (passengers side) from front to rear
1, 2, 3
left bank (drivers side) from front to rear
4, 5, 6


If after all of that and no change.
I would check the cam followers on cylinder #6 to make sure they are not collapsed (won't open valve) or stuck (might hold valve open to fail on the compression stroke)

If the coil were bad you would experience misfires on cylinder #1 as well.


Will wait for response before I post up more.
 

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If the cam and crank pic both go into place, the engine is not out of time. Are you certain it's out? If you had the battery disconnected, I would start with a throttle body adapt. It can easily cause misfires when starting. I just had that issue yesterday on my son's V6 after I pulled the electrical from the throttle body as I replaces the CTS and checked the heater hoses. Hard misfire on starting, did not go away after 30 seconds. Did a TBA before scanning and it ran great.
 

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If the cam and crank pic both go into place, the engine is not out of time. Are you certain it's out? If you had the battery disconnected, I would start with a throttle body adapt. It can easily cause misfires when starting. I just had that issue yesterday on my son's V6 after I pulled the electrical from the throttle body as I replaces the CTS and checked the heater hoses. Hard misfire on starting, did not go away after 30 seconds. Did a TBA before scanning and it ran great.
Good point.
In the back of my head I know this can resolve a rough idle condition, but honestly, I didn't even think about it until Paul posted it.
I guess that's why some people have way more green bars than me. ;)
 
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