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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

Getting ready (I hope) to get started with more of my system. I have some 6.5" mid range drivers I want to put into the OEM speaker spaces in the front door. I know that some sort of spacer will be required and that MDF is the preferred material.

Just how thick do these have to be? I guess thick enough so that the back of the magnet won't hit the window when it is down.

Does anyone have an idea what this might be though I know it will vary from speaker to speaker. An inch? Two inches?

Should I get a certain thickness and make layers? Will white glue be okay to use or would Liquid Nails be a better choice?

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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3/4" MDF is the preferred material and you'll just use as many layers as you need. The thickness of the spacer will depend on how big your driver is. Do not use liquid nails, Elmer's professional wood glue is the best I've used but you'll have to nail or screw the individual rings together to thold them until the glue dries. After that just screw the spacer to the door and mount your driver.


Paul :thumbup:
 

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Spec sheet on my Type X mid's says they are 2.7 inches deep. The 3/4" mounting ring was just a little bit too small, but luckily the set came with a pair of mounting rings which was about half an inch. Installed those to both mid's and no clearance problems.

Also for the back, you dont really need to make a baffle for the speaker because the window doesnt go down all the way any way and you can get away with just mounting strait to the door panel. I went and made 3/4" rings for all 4 doors though. Just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
bass_lover1 said:
Spec sheet on my Type X mid's says they are 2.7 inches deep. The 3/4" mounting ring was just a little bit too small, but luckily the set came with a pair of mounting rings which was about half an inch. Installed those to both mid's and no clearance problems.

Also for the back, you dont really need to make a baffle for the speaker because the window doesnt go down all the way any way and you can get away with just mounting strait to the door panel. I went and made 3/4" rings for all 4 doors though. Just to be safe.
For now I am only doing the fronts as the rears don't add that much. Going to leave them in driven by the Monsoon amp to get that nice "mid-bass" or whatever it is. I will do the tweets, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
quality_sound said:
Plus the MDF will decouple the speaker from the sheetmetal and also is more stable so the mids will sound a lot better.


Paul :thumbup:
I suppose that I need to stick some Dynamat in there... but for now will just see how they go without it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay. Forget the dynamat for now.

This whole "spacer" exercise was a PIA. Probably the worst part of the install. Finding the darn MDF wasn't easy as Lowe's doesn't carry it and I eventually managed to find a sheet at Home Depot.

I then proceeded to make the spacers.. using the ring that holds the speaker grills to the driver as a template. Turns out this is still to wide. Ended up doing a lot of cutting after I had two spacers attached to the driver. Glued them together and then used two screws to attach the driver to both. Then used 4 #8 2 inch sheet metal screws to attach the whole thing to door (after removing the old driver.. this was pretty easy btw.) Decided to just tap into the existing wiring leaving the OE harness in place in I ever want to put the old speakers back in.

Turned on the stereo and noticed an immediate loss of bass. And they don't sound as clear. I assume this will be remedied when I get the amp installed with the correct crossover.

But what REALLY sucks is that when I was testing the clearance of the magnet it appeared to clear the window with just 2 spacers. After all was done and I was testing the window... the darn thing hits the window. Not enough to stop it... but I'll have to take it all apart and add another spacer. Grrrr. Hopefully there will be enough clearance on the top of the driver for the inside door panel and OE grill to clear.

This little exercise took 2 1/2 hours!

At least I have learned to disassemble the door panel in less than 3 minutes!
 

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I have Focal 165V speakers in my doors, and I had to make 1.25" spacers to clear the front doors, and 3/4" spacers for the backs.

I also used Dynamat on the area around the driver (use it... it works).

You will probably also have to remove the rubber / plastic sound baffle on the door skin, because of the raised speaker. It just pops off.

Jimmy :)
 

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I replaced just one side on my rear doors with some extra beefy 6.5's hoping to improve my lower midbass response over stock drivers, used a 3/4" MDF spacer with sound deadening around it, and I too notice a severe lack of bass output, plus the speaker now reverberates into the door skin causing a loss and superfulous noise. I know what is causing decreased volume levels as monsoon amp stock speakers run 2 ohm vs 4 ohm on new mids plus x-over gets outa whack on that too, so that will be remedied by replacing amp however, I still am unhappy with door skin reverberation, noone else seems to be complaining about this problem, maybe these new 6.5" just push too much air around to work good in the door panel location(11mm x-max :D ) I may go back to stock and use these elsewhere unless I come up with a way to stop that door skin from vibrating :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I noticed on my fronts... where one of the OE grills had come off... that the new mid driver was very close to the inside "skin" of the door (as you call it.) Is there a chance that the driver cone or rubber part is actually hitting the inside of the door as it moves??

Maybe your spacer rings are too deep? Or perhaps some sort of spacer on top of the speaker driver to hold the inside panel out a bit away from the driver?

Just some ideas.
 
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