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I hope you verified that was the correct one for your year....
The one you linked was the 98-00 PCV, so it should be good.
Just a warning on the install; there is an oil line in the area that makes it difficult to install the parts. It's been many years since I worked on an AEB or ATW, but I remember what a pain that was. The AUG/AWM is much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The one you linked was the 98-00 PCV, so it should be good.
Just a warning on the install; there is an oil line in the area that makes it difficult to install the parts. It's been many years since I worked on an AEB or ATW, but I remember what a pain that was. The AUG/AWM is much easier.
Yeah, unfortunately I'm working on an ATW.

So, today I finally got around to it (plus the weather was in the 70s woohoo!). The old plastic "elbow" piece from the crank case had more holes (ok, cracks) in it than a chees grater that I own. Luckily I got everything off without too too too much trouble. My replacements all fit just fine, but I am having a b*st*rd of a time getting the elbow, and T intersection back onto the car.

I've got the pipe they empty into loose, so I have wiggle room there but damn if I just can't quite get enough pressure on them to make the T slip over the end of the pipe.
-Tried re-securing the pipe's mounting bolts, but then I can't fit my hand around to the opposite end of the T.
-Tried attaching with the T intersection and elbow connected beforehand so they can be pushed from further the base of the elbow, but I'm nervous I'll break the new plastic part and after doing a dry fit with everything off the car, I don't think I can provide enough pressure that way anyhow.
-So far my closest attempt has come from using a long screwdriver in between the manifold gaps to lever the T while using my other hand to "aim".

Anybody got any tips?

I ran out of daylight and it got cold, so I called it quits. I'm fairly certain I'll get her tomorrow after a bunch more fiddling and swearing but I'd appreciate it if someone has a super double secret easy trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, nevermind. I attached the T intersection to the pipe while the whole thing was off of the car, left the hose clamp loose so the T could swivel, then snaked it around until it was all in position. I reattached the pipe, and eventually ran into the same problem trying to attach the plastic elbow from the crank case (no space, not being able to put enough ass behind the plastic elbow).

BONUS! I think I smacked the coolant temp sensor/flange, because there is now a noticeable (not catastrophic) coolant leak coming from the area.

I've thrown in the towel and will be pulling the intake manifold off because now I have enough things to take care of:
-Lower crankcase breather hose install
-Coolant temperature sensor & flange replacement
-Thermostat & thermostat adapter replacement
-Track down possible oil leak (if it's a leak it's small, I think it might just have been what came out of the breather hose assembly when I tore the old stuff out)
-Coolant flush & replacement

I've got yet another order on the way from fcp euro and since I already have all that to do, I'll just make an all day thing out of this and pull the intake manifold like a responsible adult.

I've taken the for-sale listing down for now because I refuse to punt problems on to the next poor guy haha.

Haven't forgotten my promise to make that writeup
 

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I also put the elbow on before putting the tube in place and have had to loosen the pipe on several motors. Sucks about the coolant leak.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
It is what it is. I've already got the new sensor and flange which I had planned to throw on after the breather hose/valve assembly project was complete!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok guys, the big day is coming up. Here's one thing I have to check before I go through with this.

So, the breather hose assembly is obviously not attached to the crankcase anymore. WILL... the car blow up if I try to make the engine turn over?

So I'm mostly following this writeup here on evernote.

It says since I'll be removing and cleaning the injectors, I should pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car until it dies or at least cranks a few times. I'm guessing to empty the fuel line?

I'm assuming because the whole assembly I'm replacing right outside of the crankcase was broken and fraught with holes and cracks and everything, it's really not going to be a huge deal to do this since there wouldn't have been a seal there anyway.

Just checking before I go turning this otherwise great little car into a paperweight!
 

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Correct. It will be ok to run it about a minute until the engine is starved of fuel. Just pinch the hose from the bleeder valve in the "T" that leads to the intake manifold (or plug the port on the manifold) and plug the hole in the Turbo inlet pipe where the puck valve goes. That way, you have no air leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Alright guys, got the coolant drained and the intake manifold completely off just in time to avoid frostbite last night.

Today I've pulled the old thermostat, replaced the thermostat housing with a brand new one (totally unnecessary, looking at the condition of my old one but whatever). Now my current snag is getting the new thermostat seated with the new O ring in place while I hook everything back up. It's literally upside down, how do you guys manage to defeat gravity in this situation? I can fiddle with it and get the thermostat seated and then fiddle a lot more and just as my hand cramps up the O ring seats. Perfect! But then it all falls out when I try letting go of the thermostat to reconnect the housing. Any tips?

I'm going to handle the coolant temp sensor and flange right now, then check back later. Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Threw in the towel because it went from crummy, cold, and windy to crummy, cold, and windy with flurries of snow.

Got the coolant temp sensor and its flange replaced. Fingers crossed that little leak won't pop back up! I'll keep an eye out for it while I'm doing the coolant flush when everything is put back together.

Might turn the heater on in the garage and clean up the intake manifold tonight. Tomorrow's weather looks almost the same, I might run out to fit the crank case breather assembly back in place and replace the rest of the pcv valves. Then at least I'll be done with the project that got me knee deep in the engine bay in the first place!

It's supposed to warm up over the rest of the week, so I should get the IM back on pretty quickly, give it a coolant flush, and then I'll call it good enough to sell.
 

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It's been so long since I worked on an AEB/ATW that I forgot how I used to keep the thermostat in place. I think I just used to have the flange in one hand and the thermostat in the other and as soon as the thermostat went in, the flange was right there too.
 

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It's been so long since I worked on an AEB/ATW that I forgot how I used to keep the thermostat in place. I think I just used to have the flange in one hand and the thermostat in the other and as soon as the thermostat went in, the flange was right there too.
Yeah I remember doing mine in the windy cold. No fun. I think I used a dab of dielectric grease to keep the o-ring from moving around while I positioned it.
 
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Discussion Starter #33
Yeah I remember doing mine in the windy cold. No fun. I think I used a dab of dielectric grease to keep the o-ring from moving around while I positioned it.
Good call, dielectric grease worked great on the second try.

Today was lovely and warm:

Got the thermostat + housing all good to go. Cleaned the IM, as well as its mating surface on the block, cleaned and re-sealed the fuel injectors, got that damn crankcase breather assembly all fit back on the engine and replaced all the PCV valves I could (gotta get one more, left the easiest-to-reach so it won't be a 5 minute thing). Put the IM back on and everything hooked up. Fingers crossed this might be almost done.

Tomorrow will be a good coolant flush and we'll see how everything turned out!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Ok the flush seems to be going well!

I'm running distilled water and a 650mL bottle Prestone Flush+Cleaner while I follow this guide from the info base:

Riddle me this, though. The lower radiator hose will not get hot. I've run the car for 30 minutes, no CEL's, no bad smells, she's purring great! It's a brisk 50 degree day here in PA and I gave enough gas to idle around 2200rpm for probably 5-10 minutes as well.

The reservoir has a slight pinkish tint in it, so I'm confident I'm getting the flush water circulated and it's picking up the old stuff. I'm certain I put the thermostat in the correct orientation. Engine is reading steady 190degrees without any spikes on the temperature gauge.

I just shut her off to let her cool before I drain and flush again. Think I'm good to go?
 
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