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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody, I'm back to ask if any of you pros have some off-the-wall tips!

My 2000 Passat 1.8 has served its purpose and now that there are no overt issues, I've got it up for sale and will be handling little nickel-and-dime things so I can hand it off to the next owner in good conscience.

There's a substantial exhaust smell on startup, and a less substantial smell when I use the heat/air without recirc activated. I've done some reading and will start by changing the Coolant Temperature Sensor (since I was planning to flush and replace the coolant anyway). I'm planning to do the PCV after this as well because it's probably 20 years old and could use it anyway.

I've read this issue could be caused by the crankcase breather hose, so i'll be looking into that as well.

Does anyone have recommendations as far as other things I should look at/change before I refill the coolant?

Thanks everyone! I love this community and the resources/advice everyone has been happy to share while I depended on this trusty silver car as my daily driver.
 

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If it's truly exhaust then it's probably coming from one of the exhaust manifold/turbo/downpipe connections or there abouts. You could check there to see if there are any obvious leaks. Also, I'd replace the fresh air intake filter under the cowl. You could also clean the engine to get rid of any oil that may be burning on start up. I'd guess that a broken crankcase breather hose would set a code but maybe not. That is also a good place to check.

If you have the coolant out and you feel up to it, back-flushing the heater core is never a bad idea on these cars. But if the heat works now, maybe best to leave well enough alone....

Good luck with the sale.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If it's truly exhaust then it's probably coming from one of the exhaust manifold/turbo/downpipe connections or there abouts. You could check there to see if there are any obvious leaks. Also, I'd replace the fresh air intake filter under the cowl. You could also clean the engine to get rid of any oil that may be burning on start up. I'd guess that a broken crankcase breather hose would set a code but maybe not. That is also a good place to check.
Hey, Iowegian! I planned on giving the engine a good wipe down and cleaning as well. I'm sure I've dripped old oil on it during a change or 2. I changed fresh air and cabin filters just a few thousand miles ago, so I'm not too worried about their condition.

I appreciate your input as always! I'm hoping the community around my next car is half as good as the one I found on this website!
 

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If it is original, I would change the coolant temperature mounting flange along with the sensor itself. It is a well-known trouble spot. (Been there ... done that.) This might also be an opportune time to swap out another inexpensive and troublesome part, the oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it is original, I would change the coolant temperature mounting flange along with the sensor itself. It is a well-known trouble spot. (Been there ... done that.) This might also be an opportune time to swap out another inexpensive and troublesome part, the oil cooler.
Hey John, thanks! I'll pick up a new flange to swap in at the same time. Make a whole morning out of this project tomorrow/the next day.

I'm going to stay away from the oil cooler, since there aren't any noticeable oil leaks and I just did an oil change yesterday. If I notice any leaks or disappearing oil before I sell her, I'll be sure to make that change a priority. Good call!
 

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While coolant is out, a good time for either a pump replacement, reservoir, or hoses. But if no leaks, then let it be.
 

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Thermostat, cheap and PIA on the 2.8s!
Man I loved the kahunas my 2.8 wagon had, but it was a pita to work on...and even part out. My 1.8 made my decision a little easier, still miss it though, every highway was the autobahn.
 

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Speaking of V6's, my wife's Q5 with the direct-injected 3.2 feels pretty good with 270 HP. That's a full 50 HP over my 3.0, for just 200 more cubic centimeters. And the 3.0 has 30 HP over the 30V 2.8 for 200cc, and the 30V had 18 HP more than my old 12V 2.8, for zero cc. So the 3.2 has 98 HP more than my old 12V for just 200 cc's!
 

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Direct injection is like running race fuel (with tuning) on an older engine. N/A engines now run 12:1 compression and FI runs 10:1. The 30V 2.8 ran 10:1. Our new Tiguan 2.0T runs 11.7:1 on 87 gas.
 

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So much for 'no replacement for displacement'. I am truly amazed at the power and efficiency of the new engines out there.
 

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My '19 A5 Sportback with the 2.0T is rated at 250HP stock, 30 more than my N/A 3.0. Evidently it's possible to reflash the ECU through the OBD port, for up to 315HP. Not that I will.
 

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My '19 A5 Sportback with the 2.0T is rated at 250HP stock, 30 more than my N/A 3.0. Evidently it's possible to reflash the ECU through the OBD port, for up to 315HP. Not that I will.
Same with my A4 and Q5. Will have my A4 chipped within a year, I am hoping. It's no slouch as it is, stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, guys I'm back with a really dumb question: Does anyone have a picture of the PCV valve and where it lives on the car?

I bought one of these:

All the videos I can find about replacing it on Youtube are for the B6. All the writeups on this forum have lost their pictures. I'm tearing my hair out over what should be a 5 minute fix.

I looked at the ETKA diagrams and thought I'd found it (2 hoses meeting face-to-face with single use clamps), but it's to the rear of the intake manifold as opposed to under it like I keep reading about here.

Can someone point this out to me like Dora the Explorer? I promise to take clear pictures of each step and make an idiot-proof writeup for the next me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That little valve is under the intake manifold in the rubber T.
VAGguy to the rescue once again! Found it!

Good news! I discovered the source of those engine smells.

Bad news! That rubber T has been absolutely shredded by the ages.

There's a package on it's way from fcpeuro now. Thanks again!
 

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Replace the plastic tube that goes into the engine from that T. It tends to break apart then you remove or replace the rubber T.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Replace the plastic tube that goes into the engine from that T. It tends to break apart then you remove or replace the rubber T.
Yeah, I ordered the whole kit that VAGguy linked in his comment.
 

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