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+1 on lifting up the engine. Dropping the subframe throws the alignment out of whack and it’s very difficult to do the alignment.
Loosen the tranny mounts before raising the engine.
 

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Well, if you mark all the reference points where the subframe and car frame meet (draw an outline, if you will), you should be able to reset the subframe in the original position. There are also two alignment holes at the front of the subframe that a certain sized socket will fit into perfectly (14mm deep i think) to double check centered mounting.
 

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The subframe tends to re-center itself due to the design of the cup shaped washer on the subframe bolts. I've had little luck actually adjusting mine side to side to center the front camber, with only marginal changes despite using a large prybar on the subframe to move it over. I've had slightly more movement front to back when I did the motor and trans swap. Last time, the wheel ended up perfectly centered, so the subframe did not shift at all despite loosening all bolts (trans and engine mounts along with all subframe bolts).
If you do it on a drive-on rack, you would have better luck moving it as the weight might keep it from re-centering as much.

Lifting the engine can have it's own set of problems. Cracks in the coolant systems: heater hoses, CTS flange, thermostat cover and radiator hoses/outlets due to the stress. I have not had it happen as I drop the subframes.
 
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