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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey. I just thrashed my oil pan by landing a jump over some raised train tracks. I read that to remove the oil pan in the longitudinal 1.8t you have to drop the subframe or jack up the engine.

Is jacking up the engine less of a headache than removing the subframe?

Is there a write up for jacking up the engine? I haven't found instructions for this in the Bentley. Does this procedure require moving the lock carrier?

TIA

[MY2001.5 - AWM 1.8t - Front Wheel Drive - Manual Transmission]
 

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I know the replacement concept has been discussed in the past. I did a search and could not find a "how to" thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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I'm sure someone knows if the subframe method is better but I just did it about 3 weeks ago by lifting the motor. I had the front end in the service position and I had already removed the head thanks to a broken timing belt and trashed pistons. I had little room despite unbolting the two side mounts and obviously the front mount and jacking it up. The pan came out after some pulling/tugging but I broke the plastic baffle in there and had to replace it also (cheap thanks to Potterman). The larger bolts in the back are the most difficult part and don't forget the two inside the bell housing. Looking back at it, you'd probably be better off dropping the subframe since you're not tearing the front end/head off. I kinda wish I had tried it that way... it was a bear.
One thing to note is that the pan uses a sealant rather than a gasket. I want to say it was $35 at the dealer for a rather large tube that I'm sure I'll use again.
 

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While you're in there, may as well thouroghly clean (or replace) the sump. I busted my pan 4 years ago and I think it was the best thing I could have done for the engine.
 

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When i was looking into doing it about a month ago because i thought the sump pump screen was blocked (that was before the motor went boom) i was told my PZ (Paul) that it is easier to just lift the motor than remove the sub frame. Both ways don't seem like any fun at all.

BTW this is the PN for the sealant talked about above, i have a tube of it it for my rebuild - D 176 404 A2
 

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Is jacking up the engine less of a headache than removing the subframe?
I too went for raise the engine method after talking to a VW tech over here and he said that is the way they always do it. If you have the facility for lifting the engine a few inches then it isn't too much trouble I found (as long as you have the front up on axle stands or some such too so you have room to play under)
 

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I went the lift the engine way, too for an oil pump/pickup swap. Try searching oil pump replacement or such. Mebbe search sludge. I saw a couple good writeups when I was in study mode before the actual wrenching.

You may want to consider taking the oil pump out to get the pan out easier. I think you have to rotate the pan in a counterclockwise manner as looking from the snub mount toward the rear of the car. Having the oil pump out made all the difference clearancewise. Yes it is a bear "levitating"-as one fine member put it- the oil pump back in with the pan setting there and working blind, but it wasn't as bad as those pan bolts that are inside the bellhousing.

Good luck whichever you choose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
For those of you who have done this: From where did you support the engine? The only engine lifting point I see is forward of the fenders.

I may need to use two bars, like so:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
now that i've had the chance to test out the car, i'm ready to to a write up. notes in brief - to replace the oil pan without removing the belts, follow the bentley manual instructions on removing the subframe, noting the following: if you don't already have them, get yourself an overhead engine support, a medium length set of open-ended metric wrenches as well as a set of metric hex-head rachet bits, a long metric allen rachet bit or t-handle for the pan bolts, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a subframe alignment tool (my tools were two three-inch-long 3/4" hex head bolts, each with a washer and a nut), and four of the small bolts removed from the rear of the subframe. the lower rear suspension bolts cannot be removed as early as advised; this is ok. when the subframe is lowered you will have a chance to work them out. the bolts holding the lower control arms into the subframe need to be twisted to be removed. with the subframe out, the stabilizer bar needs to be removed. disconnect. the motor mount bolts and nuts had rusted together, so if you don't intend on replacing the motor mounts, remove the stabilizer bar at the clamps, not by disconnecting the subframe pieces from the motor mounts. the V6 motor mounts go in easy during this job and are so much better than stock i regret not putting them in earlier: with the v6 mounts the side-to-side engine twisting is gone. the super gasket 300 is easy to apply and creates a great seal on the oil pan. even when greasing them up, the lower control arms don't want to go back into the subframe. to reinstall the control arms you have to go back and forth from wheel well to wheel well wriggling at the suspension. make sure you reinstall the arm bolts before raising the subframe. the small bolts at the rear of the subframe tend to crack when re-used. installing the alignment tools before tightening down gives you the alignment you had before you removed the subframe, so if you have no alignment issues before, you shouldn't have any after. (dead on alignment. nice.) more as i remember it....
 

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Hey. I just thrashed my oil pan by landing a jump over some raised train tracks. I read that to remove the oil pan in the longitudinal 1.8t you have to drop the subframe or jack up the engine.

Is jacking up the engine less of a headache than removing the subframe?

Is there a write up for jacking up the engine? I haven't found instructions for this in the Bentley. Does this procedure require moving the lock carrier?

TIA

[MY2001.5 - AWM 1.8t - Front Wheel Drive - Manual Transmission]
 

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I'm actually doing my first oil pump in a Volkswagen Passat and personally I think it is easier to drop the subframe it's not that much of a deal to do it and my engine sits straight and I unhooked the mount up front and was going pretty good until I got to the two hidden bolts in the Bell housing LoL but I finally found a video with the same Motor sitting same as mine but it is my first Volkswagen and I got a great deal on it paid 300 needed an oil pump ordered it for 41.25 offline so I guess I will have to see how good of a car they are lol.How ever I will say that I was going to take the wheels off to let sub frame hang down and me and the jack had issues my buddy said didn't have instructions for it I laughed said yes it did but I have a problem my buddy said what is that I said I can't read German lol but enjoying the challenge of the car and the way it's built question is what do you think about the miles on it are over 200,000 but was maintenance by dealership most of them until previous owner got it thanks for your time and input in advance
 

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Another vote for lifting the engine but only because I also had the front in service position and had removed the head and all the plumbing around the engine. It needs to be lifted a lot in order to create enough clearance for removing the bolts to the bell housing and then to remove the pan. So without all that stuff removed, I would have been worried to do damage somewhere by lifting that much. Main reason for choosing the lift method was that I wanted to avoid having to do alignment afterwards. I used an engine lift bar from Harbor Freight (about $70 with coupon) and that worked perfectly. Eventually will need to do the clutch since I'm over 200k so may as well have the bar available.

Also used a gasket instead of the VW sealant since I had to take my time to make sure the pan was installed correctly prior to tightening completely and I did not want to battle the curing timelines. So far no oil leaks so I'm happy I do not have to re-do it.
 

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I've done a couple over the years and it's easier to lower the subframe and not put the front into service mode. I've used both an engine support and an engine hoist and the engine support is much easier as the hoist legs get in the way.
 
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