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Discussion Starter #1
I just received my koni's from the GB (huge thanks to s klass).


8) Got some NEW questions:

1. the little white plastic disks that are ~3mm thick, do they just slide over the piston? the instructions are not very clear.
2. do the bumpstops need to be cut? instructions do not say.

3. can anyone explain this step a little better to me?
"When installing the upper spring plate, VW suggest you position the plate's two studs 11 deg. from the lower bolt axis. "

thanks, other than that, im good to go on the install.

Daniel
 

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Re: Adjusting Koni Yellows

IDriveB5 said:
I just received my knoi's from the GB (huge thanks to s klass).

those of you that have the yellows, , can you please answer these questions for me?

1. how stiff do you have them set (how many turns/º did u set them)?
2. how is the ride comfort compared to OE?
3. what springs do you have?
4. what car? year/engine/trans/drivetrain

general questions:
1) how do they adjust? do you just twist the polished piston road with the threaded end?
2) how do you know when you have them adjusted completely in one direction?

thanks!
Save yourself just a little bit of frustration and go buy a "T" style hex wrench that fits the end of the front shocks. Its easier, but not required.

What you do is compress the shock fully and (while still pressing down) turn the shaft in one direction or the other. There are instructions with the shocks and also on Koni's website.

The website indicates that you should have 5 half turns, but you may not. What is important is what percentage of total turns you dial in. I have my fronts at 1/5 from soft. I think I would go a bit stiffer if I ever take them off again. The rears are full soft and I like them that way.
 

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yea i have been wondering this too.
 

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Yeah.. This is a good question. I've had my Koni's for over a year and I think there to soft now. I'm planning on going to a couple of track events this summer and I think I need to stiffen them up a little bit. Any settings recommendations would be greatly appreciated. :bow:

Thanks
 

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i had mine set for about 30% all around... At first it was wayyyy too stiff, but now that they are breaking in, I am starting to like it.

Highways are great, bumpy highways are kinda rough, but again, they still seem to be breaking in.
 

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Remember that part of Koni's reason for having dampening adjustment is so that you can gradually increase the 'stiffness' to make up for the gradual loss of dampening over the years.
 

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Re: Adjusting Koni Yellows

IDriveB5 said:
I just received my knoi's from the GB (huge thanks to s klass).

those of you that have the yellows, , can you please answer these questions for me?

1. how stiff do you have them set (how many turns/º did u set them)?
2. how is the ride comfort compared to OE?
3. what springs do you have?
4. what car? year/engine/trans/drivetrain

general questions:
1) how do they adjust? do you just twist the polished piston road with the threaded end?
2) how do you know when you have them adjusted completely in one direction?

thanks!
1. fronts 1/2 turn;rears 1/4 of turn (in total you have almost 2 full turns, Koni is saying 720 degrees, I would say 650-680)
2.perfect-even on bumps and holes is better than OE
3.VW 1BE (-20mm)
4.'99Variant, V6,4Mo,Tip

1.push piston till bottom end;take hex that fit (it should be 5mm hex);start to turn on left to reach softest position (like unscrewing) in same time push hex down to be sure that piston is not loosen.
2. right after starting to turn on left you should be stopped by "limiter" of piston.That is far left-softest position. I made mark on that position and opposit ("12 o'clock and 6 o'clock") of shock by flomaster and one mark on piston matching softest("12 o'clock") mark.This is just to be sure that both shocks ara stiffened equally. when you start to stiffen up shocks (turning on right) also be sure that you are using force to push-press hex down to piston.
Once when you finish and pull out piston from bottom position, you can turn him any direction left-right infinitely you will not mess your set-up.

Note: rear shocks (at least for my 4Mo) are threaded so you can choose 3 positions to put perch: normal(middle thread); sport(lower theread) -10mm; and heavy duty(highest thread) +10mm. At the moment I have "normal" position.Waitting springs to settle and than decide should I go with "sport" thread
 

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The questions is: How do you want your ride?

For comfort: 1/2 turn front,full soft rear. (full soft front may be too soft for most).
Sporty/comfort: 1 turn front,1/2 turn rear.
Sporty/stiff: 1.5 turns front,1 turn rear.

I am running full soft on both,but I have Eibach V6 springs on a 1.8T. I might go to 1/2 turn
on the fronts.
I have ridden in a 4MO with the higher settings and H+R Sports,and it rides great. The extra
weight really settles the ride down.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok, heres how i adjusted the to PZ's sport/comfort setting(1 turn front,1/2 turn rear):

FRONT: turn it CCW till it hit the stop, marked it, then turned it 360º CW

REAR: turn it CCW to the stop, and then turned it 180º CW

also, does it seem correct that the rear shocks should want to stay expanded and the front stay at whatever position they are currently at(remain static)?
 

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IDriveB5 said:
ok, heres how i adjusted the to PZ's sport/comfort setting(1 turn front,1/2 turn rear):

FRONT: turn it CCW till it hit the stop, marked it, then turned it 360? CW

REAR: turn it CCW to the stop, and then turned it 180? CW

also, does it seem correct that the rear shocks should want to stay expanded and the front stay at whatever position they are currently at(remain static)?
when setting stifness push piston till bottom and then perform.

IDriveB5- mine rears were same like fronts, i.e. piston stayed where I left it.
 

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It is normal for the rears to expand and the fronts to stay.
 

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I have my Koni's set to 50% all the way around and its too stiff for my taste. I'd call the ride harsh, or pretty harsh with my 17's on. I switched back to my 15's during the winter and the ride is a lot more comfortable, so I think I'm going to move my Koni's a bit towards soft, probably about 25% to see if that makes the ride better on the 17's.
 

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GoBigRed said:
I have my Koni's set to 50% all the way around and its too stiff for my taste. I'd call the ride harsh, or pretty harsh with my 17's on. I switched back to my 15's during the winter and the ride is a lot more comfortable, so I think I'm going to move my Koni's a bit towards soft, probably about 25% to see if that makes the ride better on the 17's.
Which brand of tires do you run on your 17"?... Tires make hunge difference on the ride quality.

My 18's are almost as comfortable as my stock wheels. Feels little more bumpier changing lanes at high speed, but other than that, it's not any more harsher than the stock tires with 36 PSI. I run similar pressure on the 18's.

By the way, I'm running bilstein front with koni rear at 5/8 turn. Perfectly matches the front and it's not near as harsh as bilstein rears.
 

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PASSAT2001.5 said:
Which brand of tires do you run on your 17"?... Tires make hunge difference on the ride quality.
I have Michelin Pilot "Primacy", which are touring tires I think. They're Y rated, so not super high performance. I have A4 sport wheels and those tires were apparently the OEM on A4s at some point in 2002.
 

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What springs are you running? The drop from the springs will determine whether or not you need to cut your bump stops, I think. I installed H&R OEs and konis and the H&R guy told me not to cut the bump stops.

I was advised by koni to install the little plastic white discs in place of the OEM strut cover, although they said it didn't really matter so much which one you used. I believe the fronts have a little flat white disc with a cutout on the side, and the rears are the same material, but slightly more elaborate design.

You need to align the upper spring perches at the 11 degree mark so that when you install the spring/strut assembly, the bolts of the upper perch will fit into the holes in the upper mount, and the axis of the bolt at the strut fork will line up to fit the lower arm. You can eyball it.

One easy way to make sure everything lines up right is to take the OEM spring/strut assembly still assembled and put it upright in a bench vise. Use white out or some marker to mark the edge of the upper and lower perches in the same vertical line, in reference to a mark placed on the strut. Then disassemble the whole thing, reassemble the new strut/spring, keep the spring compressors on, and line up the upper perch with the same orientation to the new strut. The konis come with their own lower perch to replace the OEM, but you still use the OEM lower rubber spring support. This is somewhat important because the orientation of the spring support will determine where the lower end of the spring sits. Thats why I suggest marking the spring support as well. If you do this consistently on both sides, the new springs will be oriented in relation to each other the same way the OEM springs were oriented. This might have some effect on the drop from one side to the other if they are not oriented correctly, although I am not totally sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok thanks, my konis came with the lower rubber spring support. i will be running vogtland sports (40mm drop, close to h&r sports) im hoping TXB5.5 or someone else with this set up can chime in. im sure this whole 11º thing will make sense once im doing the job, i just want to have all the info possible before i start out. not the kind of thing you want to do half-cocked.
 
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