[vbora01]

Are the front's only hydraulic, using only oil to dampen and rebound? How would you know if an "oil" damper was still good?
Are the rears hydraulic and gas assisted?

Reason why I ask is because I stumbled upon a pretty good deal. Owner says shocks might be blown in the front because they don't return when compressed but I'm wondering if that's completely normal if no gas is present to push them back up. He said the rears return slowly, but my guess is the setting is on full soft in the back. Do these things perform well past 100,000 miles?

Help a college kid understand Koni yellows, and potentially obtain them for his Passat :thumbup:

Thanks,
Tanner

 

[nolesfan]

I have no experience with Koni, but if they're at 100k miles already, that's when most people replace stock shocks. I know stock and aftermarket aren't generally comparable, but they'd have to be really cheap and mine would have to be dead for me to consider it.

 

[VAGguy]

From what I remember with my set, only the rear was gas charged. It should actually say on the shock body whether they are charged or not. They are acceptable past 100k, but not optimal. My rears started leaking around 100K, but YMMV

 

[vbora01]

Thanks nolesfan, and hello from Raleigh, cause that's where I live too.

Basically, they're 25 dollars for all four plus shipping, the shock bodies themselves have to be sanded down, primed, and repainted. Owner said they were used with the VW Eibach springs when they were on the car. He reported that the fronts definitely have resistance when compressed and pulled up. There are no signs of oil leaks in any of them. He said the previous owner said they were set around the soft range the entire time they were on the car; he also said he didn't have the tool to adjust them, which leads me to assume that he's never tried to adjust them because you don't need tools to do so. As for the rears he said they compress and return like stock shocks, once again it could have something to do with the current stiffness setting. He took them off because the ride was a bit rough for New England roads so he went back to stock like suspension.

Anyone else chime in? Could use a few more opinions.

 

[VAGguy]

There is no adjustment tool. I used pliers. Push all the way down and turn in either direction for softer/firmer. I will tell you, full soft is still not as soft as stock.

 

[PZ]

No pressure on the fronts. For $25, they are worth a shot if you do your own install. You need an Allen wrench to adjust them.

For a nice smooth ride (on a 1.8T FWD), 1/2 from full soft up front and then full soft for the back. For a sporty ride add 1/2 turn on each.

 

[vbora01]

So would I have anything to lose buying 4 Koni sports for 25 plus shipping that have under 100k miles to replace my most likely dead (most likely being most definitely) OEM shocks with over 200,000 miles? I feel like that's a dumb question :lol: but answer it if you will

 

[VAGguy]

nothing to lose imo. shipping ought to be fun. they aren't light.

Thanks PZ, I meant allen wrench. you jogged my memory.

 

[vbora01]

Thanks everyone, just PMed the guy. Only reason I'm jumping for these is cost, better than stock any day of the week, and I'm taking the strut assembly out already to change out the upper arms next week, along with an S4 tie rod end install. I'll report back in a week or so with pictures :thumbup: as long as the shipping stays at 40 as said in one of his responses.

 

[vbora01]

Are these too beat up to recover? The whole idea is to sand down the bodies (protecting the shafts), wire brush everything, remove rust, prime, and rattle can paint. Appearances aren't everything are they? I'm really beating a dead horse with a stick here or I'm trying to see the light at the end of the tunnel. After seeing this picture does it change your opinion?

 

[JimmyChee]

I know very little about suspensions, but my time is worth more than putting something questionable on my car I'll have to do again in a few months. I'm sure there has got to be a better plan B.

Jim

 

[vbora01]

That rust would come off right...? How thick is a shock body wall? Certainly it's thick enough for a sand down.

I agree with you Jimmy, but it's a hell of a deal. Lol, in all this decision making I always hear my friend's voice in my head: "You get what you pay for" :lol:

 

[NEWMAN'SOWN]

Not to be rude, but this is an all around terrible idea. Shocks that are that rusted shouldn't be put on a car, shocks that rusted and with 100k + miles on them are a definite no.

 

[vbora01]

Yeah... you're not being rude lol, I put myself up for opinions and to hear options. This is why I don't allow myself to impulsively buy stuff sometimes. They could probably be tailored up if the rust is on the surface.

 

[NEWMAN'SOWN]

Yeah... you're not being rude lol, I put myself up for opinions and to hear options. This is why I don't allow myself to impulsively buy stuff sometimes. They could probably be tailored up if the rust is on the surface.

It wouldn't be worth fixing even if it wasn't that difficult. You would end up spending 8+ hours sanding and painting shocks that will in all likelihood blow out in six months or less.

 

[vbora01]

It wouldn't be worth fixing even if it wasn't that difficult. You would end up spending 8+ hours sanding and painting shocks that will in all likelihood blow out in six months or less.

All valid, suspension components are definitely not a set and forget system in the car. I'll stick to my original plan and just replace the control arms and tie rod ends. Some day though I'll escape the confines of my OEM shock absorbers!

 

[zak99B5]

I will take those Konis off your hands then.

 

[vbora01]

Here you go if you need the classifieds thread to get them: VWVortex.com - FS: Koni Yellow FWD Shocks (Fronts need rebuilding)

 

[nolesfan]

You didn't mention they needed a rebuild, which I saw when the pic was posted. I'd definitely walk from these. With you being on a budget, the rebuild would cost more than you're looking to spend right now. Hell, I still have my original Sachs shock absorbers with about 95k miles on them if you really need some for a good price. I just replaced them last year to lower my car and never got rid of them (too lazy and didn't know if tossing them in the trash was okay here). Let me know if interested since you're in Raleigh.

 

[vbora01]

He thought they needed a rebuild because the fronts didn't return when compressed. From all the research that I've done, it's suggested that the fronts are only hydraulic with no gas, therefore they do not push back out on their own. He said they have resistance when compressed and pulled out, so they're probably fine considering he also said there was no signs of oil leakage or failure.