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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a used 2002 Passat and the price was MUCH too low. I feel like I scored big time, but I'm just waiting for the terrible surprise! Im a VW Vanagon owner as well, but that's clearly a whole different ball game. First thing I'm gonna do is get a code reader and a maintainance manual.

I would love a quick rundown, as I am new to the group, or things I might want to watch for right away, warning signs, ect. First warning sign, they bypassed the heater core, but I was told its not the original motor either. Everything seems to be running/shifting well and the AC works great! Ha!

I plan to give it a nice tune up and clean up, and maybe even take it to a mechanic for a checkup.
Thanks for any advice!
 

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2002 Volkswagen Passat Wagon GLX 4Motion
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Welcome home.

How many miles on her?

Bypassed heater core? No good reason for that aside from it was leaking (2002 GLX V6 4mo ATQ). If your core was leaky, look for potential damage to the under carpet wiring and CCM. My connectors were green in places and just finished soldering some splices into the broken/breaking wires.

High mileage lookouts...the timing belt(!), ball joints, muffler flex pipes and engine mounts and the timing belt(!). Two years or 80K miles is all you can expect and losing a belt is a good way to put this vehicle on its third engine.

Here's the maint schedule for our vehicles...Just in case your new car had no owner's manual.

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I recently purchased a used 2002 Passat and the price was MUCH too low. I feel like I scored big time, but I'm just waiting for the terrible surprise! Im a VW Vanagon owner as well, but that's clearly a whole different ball game. First thing I'm gonna do is get a code reader and a maintainance manual.

I would love a quick rundown, as I am new to the group, or things I might want to watch for right away, warning signs, ect. First warning sign, they bypassed the heater core, but I was told its not the original motor either. Everything seems to be running/shifting well and the AC works great! Ha!

I plan to give it a nice tune up and clean up, and maybe even take it to a mechanic for a checkup.
Thanks for any advice!
In the UK a 2002 Passat would be about £400 ie just under $200
 

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2001 Passat GLS 1.8T manual, satin silver
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Two years or 80K miles is all you can expect and losing a belt is a good way to put this vehicle on its third engine.
Don't change that 1.8T timing belt every two years. My experience is that a name brand belt will last 10 years or 80k miles. Sometimes longer, but not worth the risk. Your 2002 model probably has the AWM engine so you might try the more simple, updated Litens wind-up belt tensioner setup that Audi uses. I'm going with that next time around instead of the NTN tensioner with plunger and separate idler pulley.

Unusual use cases like cars stored next to a source of ozone or cars that sit a lot in the desert etc. probably argue for the 40k mile periodic belt inspection that VW called for in some service literature.
 

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2001 Passat wagon; 2016 Golf Sportwagen
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"Your 2002 model probably has the AWM engine so you might try the more simple, updated Litens wind-up belt tensioner setup that Audi uses. I'm going with that next time around instead of the NTN tensioner with plunger and separate idler pulley."

Tell me more -- I am coming up on 10 years (not a lot of miles) on my timing belt. Does the update apply to the AUG engine, as well? Does this impact which length of belt one buys, or any other parameters?

EDIT: I think I found what you are talking about:


Right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hah! A couple of these replies are a bit rude. I think this one is worth a little more than $200. Also I'm not selling it.

It's the luxury wagon. chromed out B5.5, 1.8t, all black leather, gun metal, triptonic, alloy wheels, full package inside and out, mats, working amp, upgraded stereo with nav, AC works great, seems to run and sound great and GETS! 191k

I did a full tune up, got the pink stuff in and the green stuff flushed, did a oil flush too because who knows, and put in the synthetic valvoline, got the double platinum plugs and new coils, nothing seems to be leaking, seems like (hopefully) the bipass was on the last engine when it blew and the mechanic that dropped the 1.8 in didnt want to mess with taking out the dash nor did the bad owners want to pay for it. repaired some silly stuff like the window controls and now it feels like a new car, feels amazing around curves, this is a nice car. Sounded like the timing belt got replaced during the engine swap as well but what are the warning signs?

Got a new ABS module but now I want to reset the computer. Is there a good thread on this? One thread said to touch the red and black wires together for 10 seconds! wtf?? Does autozone do it? Do I have to do anything fucked up with the key so it doesnt flip the security?

Thanks to the helpful ones!

2002 Passat Wagon, 1.8T, dark-silver/black/chrome
1985 Vanagon - 1.9 Waterboxer Gold (with teeth)
 

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If it wasn't mentioned before, you should order a VCDS Hex-V2 OBD interface so you can monitor all of the networked modules on that car. Believe me, it will save you much more than $200 in the long run, and allow you to run functional tests of many devices.

Reset which computer did you mean? Generally there is nothing that needs resetting, except perhaps the remote keyfob code.
 

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Hah! A couple of these replies are a bit rude. I think this one is worth a little more than $200. Also I'm not selling it.

It's the luxury wagon. chromed out B5.5, 1.8t, all black leather, gun metal, triptonic, alloy wheels, full package inside and out, mats, working amp, upgraded stereo with nav, AC works great, seems to run and sound great and GETS! 191k

I did a full tune up, got the pink stuff in and the green stuff flushed, did a oil flush too because who knows, and put in the synthetic valvoline, got the double platinum plugs and new coils, nothing seems to be leaking, seems like (hopefully) the bipass was on the last engine when it blew and the mechanic that dropped the 1.8 in didnt want to mess with taking out the dash nor did the bad owners want to pay for it. repaired some silly stuff like the window controls and now it feels like a new car, feels amazing around curves, this is a nice car. Sounded like the timing belt got replaced during the engine swap as well but what are the warning signs?

Got a new ABS module but now I want to reset the computer. Is there a good thread on this? One thread said to touch the red and black wires together for 10 seconds! wtf?? Does autozone do it? Do I have to do anything fucked up with the key so it doesnt flip the security?

Thanks to the helpful ones!

2002 Passat Wagon, 1.8T, dark-silver/black/chrome
1985 Vanagon - 1.9 Waterboxer Gold (with teeth)
I deleted all the "rude" comments. Yours would be the GLS model which is quite well-equipped. The GLX included auto a/c, auto wipers, folding mirrors, power seat, wood grain, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If it wasn't mentioned before, you should order a VCDS Hex-V2 OBD interface so you can monitor all of the networked modules on that car. Believe me, it will save you much more than $200 in the long run, and allow you to run functional tests of many devices.

Reset which computer did you mean? Generally there is nothing that needs resetting, except perhaps the remote keyfob code.
Resetting the ECU once I change the ABS module and clear some codes and I've read it helps to reset the throttlebody?

2002 Passat Wagon, 1.8T, dark-silver/black/chrome
1985 Vanagon - 1.9 Waterboxer Gold (with teeth)
 

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Yes, holding the two battery cables together can reset some of the codes, but not all (like airbag light). Others say:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for about 10 minutes.

2. Reconnect battery

3. Open driver's door and hood all the way and leave both open (important)

4. Turn ignition key to ON but don't start the car.... and leave it in there for 3 minutes... then start the car
Try it, it won't hurt anything anyway.

To reset the throttlebody (known as "adaptation" or calibration) you will need the VCDS program. I don't know if the VCDS-"lite" program will do it. But you should only need to do it if your are experiencing a rough idle or hesitation.

There are typically no warning signs on a bad timing belt or tensioner, unless it happens to slip just ONE tooth. If that happens, the engine will start running rough, misfire, lack power and should throw a code. If it slips two teeth it will be very noticeable and there is a good chance you will bend valves. More than two teeth, the engine will die immediately and there WILL be bent valves for sure.
 

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Yes, holding the two battery cables together can reset some of the codes, but not all (like airbag light). Others say:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for about 10 minutes.

2. Reconnect battery

3. Open driver's door and hood all the way and leave both open (important)

4. Turn ignition key to ON but don't start the car.... and leave it in there for 3 minutes... then start the car
Try it, it won't hurt anything anyway.

To reset the throttlebody (known as "adaptation" or calibration) you will need the VCDS program. I don't know if the VCDS-"lite" program will do it. But you should only need to do it if your are experiencing a rough idle or hesitation.

There are typically no warning signs on a bad timing belt or tensioner, unless it happens to slip just ONE tooth. If that happens, the engine will start running rough, misfire, lack power and should throw a code. If it slips two teeth it will be very noticeable and there is a good chance you will bend valves. More than two teeth, the engine will die immediately and there WILL be bent valves for sure.
The purpose of the above instructions 1 - 4 is to do the Throttle Body Adaptation (TBA).
 
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