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Discussion Starter #1
A search turns up various threads on Front Wheel Bearing Replacement. But no "how-to" thread. If there is a how-to, could someone point me to it. Thank You!
 

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Are you intending to take the entire knuckle casting to a machine shop for the press-work, or use one of those on-the-car arrangements which relies on bolt threads for the force? What I do is remove the axle bolt (tire on the ground for this) then disconnect the caliper, take off the disk, disconnect the ABS cable, then disconnect all four ball joint studs and tie-rod end ball stud, often easier said than done. Tote the whole thing plus your new bearing to the NAPA shop, or wherever.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Not totally sure yet which method to use, put carrier in press or use on the car bearing R&R kit. It's my brothers car and I plan to help him do it. We have a Greenerd 3-ton arbor press at our disposal. And a friend nearby has a large hydraulic press. But seems like the easier route is to rent a screw thread force driven On-The-Car bearing R&R kit, such as the attached image below. Or possibly maybe buy a similar kit from Horror Fright if they sell such a kit?

Seems like having to remove the knuckle and requiring an alignment after seems, like a bit of extra work. But I really don't know, can go either way. That's why I am here asking. I have never worked on a front wheel drive car. Have owned and repaired Ford PU trucks last 30 years.

You tell me, what's the most painless process to do that job? We need to do both sides on the front of his Passat. Its a 2002 w/ 1.8T motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Oh yea, and where could a kit, like image above, be rented from?

Does Harbor Freight sell a similar kit?

We are doing the job at my house and I have the arbor press, a 10" lathe, and a Bridgeport in my garage. So might just buy some nuts and all-thread, and machine up the pieces we need for the R&R. But renting or buying a harbor freight kit would be most time expedient.
 

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I'm going to assume you have cast iron knuckles. If not read note below.
1) Remove the axle.
2) From the back side of the knuckle, the flange (where wheel bolts to) must be pressed out.
A proper size spacer must be used to push the flange out but clear the inside dia of the wheel bearing.
3) From the front side of the knuckle (brake rotor side) the whole wheel bearing gets pressed out through the back of the knuckle.
Again a proper sized spacer is needed.

I've never used anything but a hydraulic press. The extra time it takes to pull the whole knuckle is a no brainer in my own opinion.
Sometimes those bearings require A LOT of force to get them out and you'll be sweating bullets with an arbor press.
I've done around a dozen wheel bearing repair / replacements. Trust me, letting the hydraulic press do the work is well worth it.
If you don't have a hydraulic press available to you, ylwagon has the right idea. Just vist your local NAPA.


Note:
If for some reason you own a W8 or have the aluminum steering knuckles installed as an upgrade, the wheel bearings are a simple bolt on affair.
The wheel bearing and hub assembly come all together as a kit.
 

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I am not sure I would trust a Harbor Freight press for this. Some stuff is decent while other stuff is crap! I would call some of the auto part stores like O'rileys and see if they rent the press
 

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Seems like having to remove the knuckle and requiring an alignment after seems, like a bit of extra work.
There's no need for an alignment, unless the car is due for one anyway. Removing and re-installing that knuckle won't change anything- those tapered ball joint studs will go back exactly as they came out.
 

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2004 B5.5 Variant 1.8T
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There's no need for an alignment, unless the car is due for one anyway. Removing and re-installing that knuckle won't change anything- those tapered ball joint studs will go back exactly as they came out.
Yep, what he said. The only thing that you can adjust is toe with the tie rod, unless you loosen the subframe.

I would remove the knuckle for your first time and use a good press. This is not a job that I would rely on a Horrible Freight item to pull through. They have a lot of good stuff, but where you need the strength to press/pull with a good amount of force, they don't have a good track record.
 

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There's no need for an alignment, unless the car is due for one anyway. Removing and re-installing that knuckle won't change anything- those tapered ball joint studs will go back exactly as they came out.
X3
Just removing and reinstalling the steering knuckle won't change anything as far as the alignment goes.
If any of the joints are loose, well then for sure it won't make a difference and the point is mute.
 
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