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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone longtime listener first time caller here.. I'm sure there are few topics that havent been ground into dust... but seeing as this is a topic concerning me.. I'd like to believe its special.
Okay so 2000 b5 passat glx... 140k, girlfriends car (I'm a GTI myself). I'm sure I don't have to tell anyone here that the v6 passat 4motion is a car with alot of... let's call it character.. definitely high maintenance and somewhat moody. Hers is usually mad. The whine coming from the car for the last couple months I suspected was transmission (there is an embarrassingly awful attempt at quick fix for this I will not get into but I can incorrectly refill the trans in that thing in minutes... and have multiple times) and it was confirmed when about 3-4 quarts of hate spilled out of the car following her trip to the store that ended with smoking engine (atf leak) horrible loud whining (me at the thought of dealing with it) and the end of forwards or backwards progress under it's own power.
Having never really done alot of mechanicking. I of course decided I could pull the transmission no problem and deal with this. And I have done just that over the last few days to my own surprise. The question is if the bushing is stuck to the torque converter, the washer is shaped like... idk... it's all eliptically and warped and shit.. the shaft of the TC has some serious patina.. can any of this be used again or do I just bite the bullet and replace tc, pump, seals, etc. I see these bushing options as standalone purchases and I guess I'm confused how something that isn't supposed to move can be pushed (moved) into the pump as a fix? Or is it supposed to move some? If so how much? Also I saw something called speedy sleeve I think... is that worth looking into and how does that actually work? Thankyou to anyone who helps. I'm sure I've violated multiple rules and I apologize and if I havent then good job me..
 

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If the bushing is like you say, the front pump is toast and beyond the help of a speedy sleeve. Where are you located? I have a free 01 V6 4Mo Tip trans if you are close enough for pickup. You can use it for parts or replace the axle and rear seal and use it. No TC with the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If the bushing is like you say, the front pump is toast and beyond the help of a speedy sleeve. Where are you located? I have a free 01 V6 4Mo Tip trans if you are close enough for pickup. You can use it for parts or replace the axle and rear seal and use it. No TC with the trans.
i'm in northern california... i pulled the pan and filter off, there were different kinds of bolts on it and some were torqued to an unreal strength so all but 3 had to be take off with serious persuasion. The bottom of the pan didn't look all that bad to be honest, i opened up the old filter and found some very thing metalic chips that were maybe 2mm by 2mm, maybe 3 or 4 of those and very thin almost like paint. You think thats from the action of the pump/torque converter?
I'm hoping i can order a pump and just replace it, i read about machining the old one and getting an oversized bushing, but i dont know of any machine shops around here i would rely on to do something like that. My biggest fear (and everyone elses i'm sure) is putting this together and back in the car, starting it up, and a few blocks down the road leaving a trail of atf again... i'd probably react in a way that I would never want my friends to see.
Thankyou for your offer but if i remember correctly from my lurking/stalking of these forums you were in the northeast weren't you?
Rob

one last thing.. i was reading last night about "staking" the bushing and also about people using loctite when they install both that and the seal... has anyone done either of these on here and can you tell me how it worked out?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nevermind i saw that it said texas on your profile.. i'm sure thats some sort of blood feud out there to have a Californian tell you they think you are a new yawker.. i apologize. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Trying to remove pump. Are these rubber things holding it in? Are they something I should be careful with ie are they easily replaceable
 

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I moved down to TX from NJ over 30 years ago. I know the lines from the valve body go into the pump and I thought you needed special tools to install/remove them. There was a repair manual posted that had a good amount of info. I've never dug into them.
This might help, not sure if it's everything you need:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The five rubber hoses you see in the picture are what holds it in after you remove the bolts on the front of the pump. Be prepared to replace them in a trans this old the rigidity that sets into the rubber makes removal and reuse about impossible
 

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Nevermind, all of the links for the PDFs are dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
PZ i do have to give credit to your write up on your torque converter I read it repeatedly before and during this job to get my confidence up.

Back to the job, can anyone give me an idea of how tight the tc is supposed to fit in the bushing. Mine has zero gap around it which makes me wonder how these things are supposed to spin without causing it to bind or is that how tight the bushing is supposed to be fitted that it can tolerate that much friction
 

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I don't know, but it should just be a film of oil between them, so there is no friction, just like a bearing.
 

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I'm no expert but I remember my TC just slid off. I had to keep the trans tilted back to keep it from falling out by itself, IIRC.
 

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Yeah, with the leaking fluid, the bushing seizes on the TC and pulls out of the pump. I have seen it a lot online and had a trans rebuild on another 4Mo Passat that had it happen. That's why I replaced the seal and swapped in my TC into my youngest son's car when I did the manual swap. With him living 1200 miles away and having 150K on the car, it was preventive maintenance. Now at 248K, the TC and trans is still working fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay so I replaced all seals, pump housing, TC o rings where I could see them, new tension bolts. Feeling pretty good about myself I went to put the transmission back in. Oh yeah did I mention in my limited experience with these things I didnt see how it would make a big difference except for discomfort to do it on gravel instead of in garage, easily and I'm dead serious, easily one of the top 5 mistakes of my life... anyway I went to put it back in and the floor jack maneuvered on gravel was not cutting it, upgraded to 1100 lb tranny jack. This may seem stupid but I cannot get this mf thing to go back into the mf car!! Its been two days of messing with this thing and I ended up back at the point where I can't get it to go forward near the meet pojnt with engine enough that the subframe mounting points for the transmission support dont get snagged. Do I just need to shake it past or ? Exhaust is out, no trans mounts on either side of trans, I've put the sub frame back up because the way it was sagging made the snag problem worse.
Let's see.. when it was originally not going in I had the passenger side exhaust on still as well as passenger transmission support that attaches to the trans. I've since removed that stuff but also put the subframe up all before I tried again to fit it. As I'm sitting here I'm thinking maybe lower the subframe again now that trans is sleeker and it will hopefully go in.
It sounds like a small problem but moving that beast around while on gravel is pretty awkward.
Thank you again
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh and the question that is implied is can anyone tell me how to get this back together. At this point I'm 800 into this and all my free time in last two weeks, I cannot bring myself to scrap it if only because I do not ever quit halfway through anything. I am so close to cutting off the mount points and.welding them.bavk on it's not funny
Jk


Kind of
 

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I've always lowered the back of the subframe when pulling or installing the Tip trans. When you installed the TC, were there 3 distinct gear engagements? The TC should sit about 1" behind where the Engine speed sensor lines up with the sensor ring. If it's not that far back, rotate and move it until it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
its about 1 inch back from the edge of the transmission front, where it connects to the engine? I want to say it is in right but at the same time I don't really know. I have a chiltons manual which is slightly helpful but the images are drawings for some reason as opposed to pictures or even to spec diagrams... I've got it 80% in at the moment, I had left the sub frame up and turned the transmission sideways with the jacks rotating ability and kind of prayed and it was able to squeeze in there. im lowing the subframe again now to get the front lined up and installed. I really appreciate anyone who responded to me on here i'm sure for a few of you guys you've answered these questions hundreds if not thousands of times and it would've been easier to just say "look it up" but trust me I have researched and looked and watched and read, I haven't been lazy throughout this so thank you again for your time.
 
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