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Ross Tech's wiki has the fault code details:

17090/P0706/001798 (Transmission Range Sensor (F125): Implausible Signal)
17114/P0730/001840 (Gear Ratio Monitoring: Incorrect Gear Ratio)
18228/P1820 (Pressure Control Valve 2 (N216): Short to Plus)
18233/P1825 (Pressure Control Valve 3 (N217): Short to Plus)

"Short to Plus" is "Short to B+". My thread on P0706 is here but none of the pics are working due to a forum bug, and also annoyingly none of the internet archive's snapshots of old versions of the page have working pics. The pics are helpful though if they ever fix the links you'll want to check them out. The rest of the codes I don't know but if I were you I'd recheck the TCM wiring and the plugs for burn marks and corrosion. Another theory is those codes are leftovers and you should clear them? I am not knowledgeable enough to know about that though hopefully others will know.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Ross Tech's wiki has the fault code details:

17090/P0706/001798 (Transmission Range Sensor (F125): Implausible Signal)
17114/P0730/001840 (Gear Ratio Monitoring: Incorrect Gear Ratio)
18228/P1820 (Pressure Control Valve 2 (N216): Short to Plus)
18233/P1825 (Pressure Control Valve 3 (N217): Short to Plus)

"Short to Plus" is "Short to B+". My thread on P0706 is here but none of the pics are working due to a forum bug, and also annoyingly none of the internet archive's snapshots of old versions of the page have working pics. The pics are helpful though if they ever fix the links you'll want to check them out. The rest of the codes I don't know but if I were you I'd recheck the TCM wiring and the plugs for burn marks and corrosion. Another theory is those codes are leftovers and you should clear them? I am not knowledgeable enough to know about that though hopefully others will know.
I rewired my whole TCM. So do you think it could be the range sensor?
 

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reason I ask is, they are exposed as is the connector to the road environment right by the drivers side cv and tranny mount and often go bad here in rust belt with salt etc. , the V6 engine and downpipes make it a real PITA to get at.......I wanted to do a forensic on one so I took one off my V6 parts car.........two + hours of misery and scraped knuckles just to get out as you have to remove tranny mount "perch" on either engine ....fast forward 1.8s 1 hour old out, new in on my 1.8. Disassembled, it is a rotary switch ,not sure if it operates analog on/off or is binary in its inputs and or if 12 volts or a 5 volt signal source,regardless .....pretty delicate and with a series of springy thin metallic fingers riding on a series of segmented rings.............all it would take is a little residue or film to mitigate its operation especially at 5 volts......replaced mine as I said and took it out of my equation as to my tranny problem.
 

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So do you think it could be the range sensor?
I don't know. I had P0706 but the symptoms were different, no hard rpm shift it would just konk into limp mode (the display on the dash PRD432 would light as I captured in this pic). If you read that thread I linked to you'll see in my case it was a combination of both bad wiring and the sensor. There's a technicians reference guide I used from Audi, linked in this post. Really though VCDS was the most helpful because as you can see in the pic it allows lots of diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I don't know. I had P0706 but the symptoms were different, no hard rpm shift it would just konk into limp mode (the display on the dash PRD432 would light as I captured in this pic). If you read that thread I linked to you'll see in my case it was a combination of both bad wiring and the sensor. There's a technicians reference guide I used from Audi, linked in this post. Really though VCDS was the most helpful because as you can see in the pic it allows lots of diagnostics.
Oh yes Vcds helped a bunch honestly told me what the problem was instead of me trying to pinpoint it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I don't know. I had P0706 but the symptoms were different, no hard rpm shift it would just konk into limp mode (the display on the dash PRD432 would light as I captured in this pic). If you read that thread I linked to you'll see in my case it was a combination of both bad wiring and the sensor. There's a technicians reference guide I used from Audi, linked in this post. Really though VCDS was the most helpful because as you can see in the pic it allows lots of diagnostics.
Do you still have those pictures of your rewiring I would like to see them.
 

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Do you still have those pictures of your rewiring I would like to see them.
The dropbox folder is here. They make more sense inline but like I said there's a problem with the forum. You can see the green wire with the red stripe was badly corroded. I've since read of a different report that also identified that wire as a problem. Coincidence? I don't know. According to the diagram (see dropbox folder) it goes from the TCM to "Data Link Connector".
 

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Discussion Starter #51
The dropbox folder is here. They make more sense inline but like I said there's a problem with the forum. You can see the green wire with the red stripe was badly corroded. I've since read of a different report that also identified that wire as a problem. Coincidence? I don't know. According to the diagram (see dropbox folder) it goes from the TCM to "Data Link Connector".
This is great I have a wiring diagram that is colored if you'd like that one, just for future reference. I was wondering with the codes i got the p1825, p0706, p1820, and p0730. Could that all be towards the transmission range sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
The dropbox folder is here. They make more sense inline but like I said there's a problem with the forum. You can see the green wire with the red stripe was badly corroded. I've since read of a different report that also identified that wire as a problem. Coincidence? I don't know. According to the diagram (see dropbox folder) it goes from the TCM to "Data Link Connector".
I also when i rewired it i had the butt connectors where I stuck one side of the wire in and the other in the other side, and I electric taped every wire individually. Do you think that would be ok as well?
 

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Is your colored diagram on the internet or you mean like you have a paper copy? Sorry but I don't know enough to know the answers to your questions. What I can tell you is what happened to me. I used heatshrink and liquid electrical tape on the wires as a precaution in case that area got wet again.

As for the codes I know for sure P0706 is a definite problem. It could be caused by an actual short or the MFS is bad. I would replace the MFS before it gets worse. Whether that will clear up the other codes I don't know. As I mentioned earlier I would recheck the TCM wiring and plugs.

I documented my MFS replacement in this post (as I think I mentioned) but the pics aren't working. Also the audi writeup pics don't work either, but you can find them in the internet archive:

Audi B5A4 1.8T Transmission Multifunction Switch Replacement Writeup (Nov 2016 cached copy)

The official instructions say "If both transmission brackets are to be removed, the transmission must be supported as described. If only one bracket is to be removed, it is not necessary to support the transmission." But I gotta tell you as I mentioned in my post mine sunk a little and I had to jack it back up. I would definitely support the transmission.

And BONUS for you since I'm not busy tonight here are pics from the official instructions:

97834


97835
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Is your colored diagram on the internet or you mean like you have a paper copy? Sorry but I don't know enough to know the answers to your questions. What I can tell you is what happened to me. I used heatshrink and liquid electrical tape on the wires as a precaution in case that area got wet again.

As for the codes I know for sure P0706 is a definite problem. It could be caused by an actual short or the MFS is bad. I would replace the MFS before it gets worse. Whether that will clear up the other codes I don't know. As I mentioned earlier I would recheck the TCM wiring and plugs.

I documented my MFS replacement in this post (as I think I mentioned) but the pics aren't working. Also the audi writeup pics don't work either, but you can find them in the internet archive:

Audi B5A4 1.8T Transmission Multifunction Switch Replacement Writeup (Nov 2016 cached copy)

The official instructions say "If both transmission brackets are to be removed, the transmission must be supported as described. If only one bracket is to be removed, it is not necessary to support the transmission." But I gotta tell you as I mentioned in my post mine sunk a little and I had to jack it back up. I would definitely support the transmission.

And BONUS for you since I'm not busy tonight here are pics from the official instructions:

View attachment 97834

View attachment 97835
It's an internet copy I got from someone and thanks dude you've been so much help I really appreciate it and the instructions are very helpful as well.
 

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I also when i rewired it i had the butt connectors where I stuck one side of the wire in and the other in the other side, and I electric taped every wire individually. Do you think that would be ok as well?
If that part inside the car and you have solved any water intrusion issues, it should be fine. If under the hood or car, you need either waterproof harness tape or shrink wrap connectors (I found them at Home Depot).
 

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Discussion Starter #56
If that part inside the car and you have solved any water intrusion issues, it should be fine. If under the hood or car, you need either waterproof harness tape or shrink wrap connectors (I found them at Home Depot).
[/QUOTE
If that part inside the car and you have solved any water intrusion issues, it should be fine. If under the hood or car, you need either waterproof harness tape or shrink wrap connectors (I found them at Home Depot).
Yeah it's the part under the passenger side floor. I was just wondering if that would be a good enough connection for the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Is your colored diagram on the internet or you mean like you have a paper copy? Sorry but I don't know enough to know the answers to your questions. What I can tell you is what happened to me. I used heatshrink and liquid electrical tape on the wires as a precaution in case that area got wet again.

As for the codes I know for sure P0706 is a definite problem. It could be caused by an actual short or the MFS is bad. I would replace the MFS before it gets worse. Whether that will clear up the other codes I don't know. As I mentioned earlier I would recheck the TCM wiring and plugs.

I documented my MFS replacement in this post (as I think I mentioned) but the pics aren't working. Also the audi writeup pics don't work either, but you can find them in the internet archive:

Audi B5A4 1.8T Transmission Multifunction Switch Replacement Writeup (Nov 2016 cached copy)

The official instructions say "If both transmission brackets are to be removed, the transmission must be supported as described. If only one bracket is to be removed, it is not necessary to support the transmission." But I gotta tell you as I mentioned in my post mine sunk a little and I had to jack it back up. I would definitely support the transmission.

And BONUS for you since I'm not busy tonight here are pics from the official instructions:

View attachment 97834

View attachment 97835
I changed the sensor and nothings changed and I had to change both engine mounts as well. I checked vcds my tranmission fluid is staying at 47 degrees celcius and I also checked and it said that the solenoid valve 3 n90 was not active idk what that means. When I drive it it'll still have the hard reverse but when driving it'll shift from 1st to second but it'll Rev into high rpms and won't shift out of 2nd.
 

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re-visit website highlighted in post #43 there is a detailed chart listed within that post/blog as to what solenoids are "on" or "off" in each gear selection. As to the number N90 ,I was able to find a cross reference as to what valve N90 is the same as ,equivalent to in regards to MV /EDS numbers in charts. will post tmrw. AM.
 

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sorry for delay.....here is cross reference equivalents: MV-1 = N-88, MV-2 = N-89, MV-3 = N-90, EDS-1 = N-91, EDS-2 = N-92, EDS-3 N-93, EDS-4 = N-94
 

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on the website I suggested "46 fanatics" in this thread #43, you need to look at it's post #11, it shows what the N90/MV-3 solenoid is doing in your VW Passat the other tables are for BMWs so be careful when reading, at the bottom of the schematic drawings they usually say for BMW or VW
 
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