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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My brother asked to borrow my car on tuesday night ( I must have been in a generous mood this never happens) Wednesday morning I head out for work. I start the car and the engine sound like a diesel (the lifter were clattering like crazy) I asked him what happened to the car he says the oil light came on a couple time when he was driving. (After fighting off the urge to go ballistic, because the average man knows that if the oil light comes on something is wrong. Then you should have stopped the F ing car.) So I checked the oil and put in a quart (to be on the safe side) and left for work. I let is run

On my drive to work, the oil light comes on with me now and the engine start clattering again, I drive until I could get to a nice spot where a tow truck could pick up my car.

I had the tow truck take the car to my house and when I started it and put it in my yard the engine was quiet :???: no clattering.

All this time I'm thinking I am a victim of sludge. I even started the car this morning to warm up the oil to see if an oil change would help since I was planning to do it this weekend any way. The car ran quiet for about to minutes then the clattering sound of the lifter or the cam chain started again.

So I am figuring it is just a oil pressure problem but now I suspect that the pump may be failing because I was hearing a humming sound from the engine before the clattering started again.

Do you all think the screen is just clogged or that the oil put is out the door?

Do you think I did any damage to the lifters or the cam seal.

I'm guessing if it is just sludge it is to late to use some auto-rx with out damaging some other part of the engine.
 

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Classic sludge case. Sharky's right, of course. If you've got all the oil change receipts, you're golden. Do NOT drive the car, have it towed to the dealer.

If you don't have the receipts, there are some things you can do that might get you to the place where you can use Auto-RX. Get back to us here. Your oil pump is probably not fatally wounded, but if you end up having to get in there to clean the intake screen you'll want to replace the pump anyway. The main concern is oil starvation to the turbo bearing due to intake screen blockage. So don't drive it at all.

FYI, I've been down this road: same symptoms and replaced the oil pump and turbo DIY. I was the second owner and 1st owner had dealer change oil religiously... with dino oil. :sad: I developed the above symptoms and my indy mechanic kept telling me it wasn't a big deal, etc. Needless to say I've gotten an education in these engines, oils, sludge, etc.

How many miles, what year, and are you the 1st owner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well guys I will have to come out of pocket for this one because there are no VW dealers on my island (I imported the car from Miami)

I am the second owner (if you don't count the used car lot I bought it from)
of my candy white 99 1.8t GLS I don't think the original owners cared much about what kind of oil was in the car because when I got the car there was barely any oil in it because of a toasted valve cover gasket. I changed the valve cover gasket and many other things when the car was sitting.

The car had 68,570 mile when I bought it and I change the oil and air filter the week after I recieved it. (That was the last week in November) The car sat until the last week in April when I started driving it everyday. The current mileage is just under 71,000 so it was just about due for its first oil change since I have done the initial one.

Back in November I used "Castrol Syntec 5w50" and a K&N Gold oil filter. I thought this was a decent oil (but since I have been hanging out on this site I am thoroughly about what is a good choice of oil.)

So I intended to use Mobil 1 10w40 this time but nowhere on the island has any MOBIL 1 synthetic they just have the regular Mobil. So I was forced to use the same oil and filter that I have used before.

The reason I asked if it was to late for the oil pump is because I was thinking It is about time to change the timing belt as well so if I had to actually remove the pump and not just clean the screen then I would have to start getting the parts to minimize the time It would be in the shop. If I wait until my mechanic opens up the oil pan and checks the oil pressure then order the put it will hold him up because he would probably leave the car on the hoist until the parts come in.


Hey Eric do I have to drop the sub frame to get the pan out or can I get away with raising the engine and getting the pan out to check for sludge?

Because if I can get to pan off myself I can start working on that this weekend.
 

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I cant speak for the Pump, but it could be tons of sludge from the previous owner.

At 100K, my light started coming on....more and more. I have only ran M1 0-30 over the years, but got lazy at changing it...I just kept adding bits when needed. It got to where it stayed on and I figured the screen was clogged. I changed it (while starting A-RX) and it cleared up right away. I think my Filter was too full of crap and flow was being impacted...good thing at least it was synthetic! In the 1500m since (have to change it tonight for the rinse process) I changed it, I've been running it pretty hard (I chipped it at 100K right after I did the timing belt, etc stuff. I'm addicted to it!) and not seen that light even once.
 

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Had the low oil pressure problem with my 1.8T. The symptoms are classic, and I bet your oil is black as a moonless night.

I found oil changes would make the light stay off for a few hundred miles. This made me realize it was not the oil pump but rather dirty oil. For a permanent fix I used a 5-minute engine flush product followed by multiple oil changes. Hence avoided the labor intense pan removal and all has run well for the past 7000m. My theory is the solvent based cleaning (flush stuff is mostly kero) is able to get to the sludge throughout the engine, while a pan removal cleaning just gets the accumulation at the lower end. Based upon experiences described by other CB5ers AutoRx and very frequent oil & filter changes may correct the problem too.

Also, you do not have to pull off the oil pan or raise the car to check oil pressure. A pressure gauge can be temporarily threaded into the port usually occupied by the oil pressure sensor, located just above and rear of the oil filter.

Best of luck, hope internal damage has not occurred.
 
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