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Discussion Starter #1
So yesterday, I set out for home from work, and about 2 miles down the road, my transmission light comes on. I pull into a convenitent parking lot, and when I turn off the car, it starts yelling at me about the oil pressure, and that I should check the owners manual. So I do, and then I check the oil (fine), but of course, now it recommends I don't drive it. So I don't. Get it towed to the nearest dealer/service center.

Well, the guy calls me this morning and tells me that it looks like my ignition switch is stuck on and "have you been having any trouble with this before?" I said "no" and he went on to explain that before they can look at whats wrong with the oil pump, they need to pull the ignition switch, which, if it's broken, won't be covered under my 10/100,000 warrenty. (he said he's seen them go bad before, I think it's an awefully huge coincidence.)

So my question is this: Shouldn't the ignition switch be covered under the warranty, and is this something I should call VWoA about?

-Brad
 

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10/100,000 warranty is powertrain only (read: internally lubricated parts). Ignition switch is likely only covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. 2/24K or 3/36K.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, if that is the case, can anyone tell me what getting it replaced is likely to cost me? And also, I'd like to solicit speculation about what might have caused my unfortunate system failure which (somehow, in an amazing coincidence) included my ignition switch failing too. Could the ignition switch be a symptom of something else, like an ECU problem? Thoughts?

-Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just got a call from the service guy, told me that it looks like the ECU codes (including the transmission light, and the Oil Pressure light) that my car is throwing, are probably being caused by a broken ignition switch. So, I told him to go ahead and replace that for $236 and then he's going to check out the car again and make sure everything is copacetic (sp?). I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now I've learned it NOT an ignition problem. Apparently something is causing a voltage spike in the electrical system. Service Guy said they've got a Master Tech looking at it (and for $75/hr he'd better be right). Anyway, I told them about my Alientech controller as a starting point since it's the only thing I've ever done to the car's electrical system. I installed it two years ago so I don't THINK it's the problem, but you never know. Anyone had a similar experience?

-Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe it's caused by this:

a malfunctioning instrument cluster may be caused by a poor connection between the instrument cluster and wiring harness due to poor wiring to terminal crimping or improper terminal tension (TSB 90 01-03 Aug. 2001);

If it is the result of an old TSB, should I have to pay for it?

-Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is a follow-up in case anyone else has a similar problem:

So, it turns out that this issue was caused by crossed wires in the door. The dealer told me it was probably where I installed the Alientech controller, and the technician went ahead and redid all of the connections to my controller. I looked, and he did a bang-up job. All very nicely crimped together and then shrinkwrapped, and then wrapped up well with e-tape.

Only problem is that the odd behavior came back yesterday. So I pulled the door panel and looked at where he did his work (that's how I know he did such a good job) and couldn't find anything wrong with it. But now - after playing around in the door - the problem has ceased again. So my thought is that it may actually be a bad connection from the wiring harness (per the TSB mentioned above). Since it's working right now though, I'm not going to mess with it. I'll just have the dealer take a look at it the next time I bring my car in for service. Hopefully, that will be that.
 
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