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I just finished installing my head unit and amp and subs, but I now need to install my components and I am trying to figure out how to take off the door panels, I've gotten so far as taking the screw off the bottom of the panel, but I dont wanna start pulling if there is something that i am overlooking. Also does anyone know anything about installing aftermarket tweeters in the stock tweeter location, I heard there might be a mounting depth problem. I will be running JL XR650.CSi. Thanks for your help.
 

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Component install

Yo, here is a good idea of what you are getting into ;p

http://www.b5glx.com/alien_remote/remote.htm

oh,btw lmk how you removed the riveted door speakers and replaced them, I was looking to do my fronts as well as rear woofers. pics? :)

~les
 

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The link provided above, shows how to take the door off, with the exception that he forgot the 2 torx screws that are underneath the door skin at the bottom of the door. His link shows the drivers door, but the passenger doors follow the same procedure, you just need to pry the face of the door handle off, and unscrew the 2 philips screws in the handle, and the torx screws at the bottom of the door skin. Then give the whole door skin a good tug to pull it off the steel door chassis. It's held on with 5 or 6 plastic plug clips, and it's a guarantee that you'll break one or two of these.

There's no real issue with installing tweeters in the stock location. You may need to pry the factory tweeters out with a very small scwerdriver or knife, and file down a few tabs, but most aftermarket tweeters should fit. I suspect your JL's will fit no problem. Glue them into place with rubber cement so they don't rattle (and can be removed if needed).

note that the 6" factory drivers are riveted onto the door, and need to be drilled out to remove.

also note that you will need to make 1.25" deep risers out of MDF, to accomodate the depth of the new speakers, otherwise the window will hit the back of the magnet when it rolls down. The factory speakers are spaced in a plastic housing and have a fairly shallow magnet. Roll the windows all the way down before you put the new speaker in, so that you can be sure of the depth not hitting the glass.

You can also remove the rubber speaker ring that is attached to the door skin. It is useless for aftermarket speakers, and probably won't work once youve put your new speakers on 1.25" MDF risers.

I'd also strongly recommend putting a sheet of Dynamat around the area where the new 6" driver is going. It kills the resonance and vibration of the steel door frame. If you've got the money, the time, and the patience, it'd be best to Dynamat the entire steel door skin. I just did the immediate speaker area, and it works good.
 

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sweet, thanks for the info, I am just about to start my install and I am starting with the HU first. The amp and speakers all have to be replaced at the same time due to internal x-over issue in monsoon amp, thaks for the tip on teh dynamat, I have about 12- 1 sq ft peel n stick sound deadening material I will be incorporating, knew I was keeping that for a reason ;p
 
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