Jem,
Damn I was checkin' in to see how you were making out, and I found this post..
Before you do anything, I am not trying to be funny, but when shit gets hectic, we forget things...Check every fuse again with the meter..twice
Also make sure every relay at the bulkhead is seated and plugged in all the way.....no luck?.... read on...
ICMs are a common problem... you need to check the pins of it on top of the airbox with a meter, not sure of the values...hold on I will go get the Bentley..I keep in the trunk
Hint
.......................................................................................................................................................(digging in trunk, spare parts..oil...hmm) Got it!!
Ok:
First be careful when testing the pins, no biggie, just be clean
If you fry something else, it's on you... no real worries..just a disclaimer
Top of the air box there are two plugs that plug into the oval seated module, the first test involves the larger of the two plugs;
Disconnect all plugs from the injectors...
Pin 3 is ground
Pins 1, 2, 4, 5 are cylinder activation outputs, the factory test involves a led, but I am pretty sure you can test it with a multimeter set to the mv scale.
Example: Pin 3 to ground lead on the meter: pin 1 to positive
then subsitute 2, 4, 5 using pin 3 as ground.
Crank the car and make sure there is activity on all of the activation outputs..
If not reconnect the 5 pin harness, and disconnect the 4 pin connector then use the ground from the multimeter to pin one and the other to battery positive, operate starter to check the output stage of the icm, repeat this test for pins 2, 3, 4 Use the 12v standard scale for this test.
I substituted the meter for the VAG 1527 b tool, which is just a voltage safe "Test Light" that draws no current. You can do the same, or if you are sure you have a led based "air Bag" safe test light you can use that.
So it would seem from this: the 5 pin side is ECU level control voltage and the ICM steps it up into a stronger negative output to fire the coils thru the 4 pin..
Hope that helps, maybe that was your original code, and the long term "on" but no start pushed it over the edge? The thing does have a heatsink inside the air box so I am sure it gets hot.
Here is a thought, why don't you stick your ECU in a friends car just to read the codes? if you have a similar car, year and such?
Even if it is 5 speed, it may help you figure out where the car was headed?
As far as the K line is concered, I would pull the radio and disconnect the plugs from the back of it, making sure all the pins are good and no shorts.
Keep it completely disconnected and, try to scan again..
the other consideration is where else the k line "goes"...this means check the CC module under the rug drivers floor, take it out check the pins, wires...etc.
Then remove the TCM and do the same, in the passenger floor, under the carpet...
Good luck ..
let me know...
TJ
Damn I was checkin' in to see how you were making out, and I found this post..
Before you do anything, I am not trying to be funny, but when shit gets hectic, we forget things...Check every fuse again with the meter..twice
Also make sure every relay at the bulkhead is seated and plugged in all the way.....no luck?.... read on...
ICMs are a common problem... you need to check the pins of it on top of the airbox with a meter, not sure of the values...hold on I will go get the Bentley..I keep in the trunk
Ok:
First be careful when testing the pins, no biggie, just be clean
If you fry something else, it's on you... no real worries..just a disclaimer
Top of the air box there are two plugs that plug into the oval seated module, the first test involves the larger of the two plugs;
Disconnect all plugs from the injectors...
Pin 3 is ground
Pins 1, 2, 4, 5 are cylinder activation outputs, the factory test involves a led, but I am pretty sure you can test it with a multimeter set to the mv scale.
Example: Pin 3 to ground lead on the meter: pin 1 to positive
then subsitute 2, 4, 5 using pin 3 as ground.
Crank the car and make sure there is activity on all of the activation outputs..
If not reconnect the 5 pin harness, and disconnect the 4 pin connector then use the ground from the multimeter to pin one and the other to battery positive, operate starter to check the output stage of the icm, repeat this test for pins 2, 3, 4 Use the 12v standard scale for this test.
I substituted the meter for the VAG 1527 b tool, which is just a voltage safe "Test Light" that draws no current. You can do the same, or if you are sure you have a led based "air Bag" safe test light you can use that.
So it would seem from this: the 5 pin side is ECU level control voltage and the ICM steps it up into a stronger negative output to fire the coils thru the 4 pin..
Hope that helps, maybe that was your original code, and the long term "on" but no start pushed it over the edge? The thing does have a heatsink inside the air box so I am sure it gets hot.
Here is a thought, why don't you stick your ECU in a friends car just to read the codes? if you have a similar car, year and such?
Even if it is 5 speed, it may help you figure out where the car was headed?
As far as the K line is concered, I would pull the radio and disconnect the plugs from the back of it, making sure all the pins are good and no shorts.
Keep it completely disconnected and, try to scan again..
the other consideration is where else the k line "goes"...this means check the CC module under the rug drivers floor, take it out check the pins, wires...etc.
Then remove the TCM and do the same, in the passenger floor, under the carpet...
Good luck ..
let me know...
TJ