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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I think I pushed my luck (Timing)

Well, last night I think my Passat might of jumped time on me. I can't say for sure, I'm no mechanic. The engine turns over, there's plenty of power, and it sounds like the fuel pump is working fine. When I popped the hood it smelled like something had went toast. The smell seemed to be coming from the front of the motor. A quick look around didn't show anything out of the ordinary so it must be something else.

You guys know anything I can check to verify if my assumption is right? I know you can't check a timing belt just by looking at it.

Thanks!


P.S. Passat at 80K and was going to change the belt in 2 weeks :(
 

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Pull the plastic timing belt cover on the engine and see if the belt has any signs of being damaged. From what I know, the belt will either strip or break. If you've ever done a timing belt you'll know how tight the things are. As such it's not likely that the belt just jumped a notch and if it did there should be some signs of damage to the belt. If you're still unsure, find a compression gauge and see if you've lost compression on one or more cylinders. If the valves have been damaged then they won't be seating properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I checked the belt when I went home for lunch and it appears to be completely intact, no noticeable damage. It's still tight and everything.

I'll have to get/borrow a compression gauge to check that.
 

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do go into this smell a bit more... what does it smell like? brning plastic, rubber, steamed coolant? burning oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It wasn't an oil or steam smell. Was somewhere in the neighborhood of rubber or plastic. It's hard to say as the smell is gone now. When the hood was popped it was kind of foggy like maybe something had burned or overheated, but nothing was out of place or damaged. No lights or CEL came on.
 

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Well, last night I think my Passat might of jumped time on me. I can't say for sure, I'm no mechanic. The engine turns over, there's plenty of power, and it sounds like the fuel pump is working fine. When I popped the hood it smelled like something had went toast. The smell seemed to be coming from the front of the motor. A quick look around didn't show anything out of the ordinary so it must be something else.

You guys know anything I can check to verify if my assumption is right? I know you can't check a timing belt just by looking at it.

Thanks!


P.S. Passat at 80K and was going to change the belt in 2 weeks :(
Pull the timing covers and make sure the cam sprockets are parallel (assuming it's a 2.8). You can do this in 2 minutes.
 

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The damage could be at the crank pulley. When the teeth on the belt get shredded, it usually stop the belt from turning the crank. The belt may appear tight, but it can not move at the crank. You can check this by manually turning the crank and see if the cam pulley moves. DO THIS SLOWLY, you do not want to cause more damage if the belt is toast.

I hope you do not have a timing problem, but it looks likely.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pull the timing covers and make sure the cam sprockets are parallel (assuming it's a 2.8). You can do this in 2 minutes.
1.8T so not sure if that still applies.

The damage could be at the crank pulley. When the teeth on the belt get shredded, it usually stop the belt from turning the crank. The belt may appear tight, but it can not move at the crank. You can check this by manually turning the crank and see if the cam pulley moves. DO THIS SLOWLY, you do not want to cause more damage if the belt is toast.

I hope you do not have a timing problem, but it looks likely.
I'll give it a try.
 

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If you plan on turning the crank by hand you'll most likely need to pull the plugs. Otherwise you'll be fighting against the engine compression. What you may want to do is get someone in the car and just touch the ignition (as opposed to cranking it over). If the belt doesn't move up top then it's stripped. If you pull the plugs and turn it over by hand you can also listen for valves touching the piston heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I marked the belt and turned the key myself and the belt does move. Also, when I flipped the switch to the on position and the car ran through the diagnostics the traction, abs, and the other light came on and went off like normal, however the Engine light comes on and stays on (is this normal?).
 

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OK, so are all the accessory belts still intact? The engine light staying on is not normal. Do me a favor and describe what happened. Was the car still running when it stopped? Where did the smell appear to come from? What sounds did it make when it went haywire? Did it drive OK right up until you parked it? etc... the more detail the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, so are all the accessory belts still intact? The engine light staying on is not normal. Do me a favor and describe what happened. Was the car still running when it stopped? Where did the smell appear to come from? What sounds did it make when it went haywire? Did it drive OK right up until you parked it? etc... the more detail the better.
All the belts appear to be working fine. When the car went dead nothing weird happened, it just died and wouldn't restart. Smell was in the front right (drivers-side) of the motor, but seemed to come from under the motor. Car didn't make any strange noises and has been running fine since every day I've had the car.
 

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My advice is get the car scanned. I think you can buy a generic OBD2 scanner for $100-200. Or get a VAG-COM dongle from e-bay or the full version from rosstech. The CEL isn't necessarily a bad thing as it probably means that something other than the timing belt failed.
 

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When I installed my K04 the chip that I got somehow didn't take (it was corrupted). To the best of my recollection the CEL never came on. The car wouldn't start, but there was no indication that the ECU was not working.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'll probably order VAG-COM KII-USB tonight. What can I expect to save on the dongle on ebay versus ordering it from Ross-Tech? (I can't access ebay at work).

I figure it's a good investment since I don't plan on getting rid of this car for a long while.

Thanks!
 

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If you plan on keeping the car for a long time then I would advise getting the licensed version from ross-tech. The e-bay dongle is substantially cheaper ($20-30 vs $250-300) However, the e-bay version can only scan and erase codes. the licensed version can log data in real time which is absolutely invaluable when it comes to diagnosing these cars. If your funds are tight then get the e-bay one for now. But if you can swing it, get the licensed version. Also, if you need the car back on the road ASAP then check into a generic scan tool that you can buy locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'll pick up the licensed version then. This is my only car at the moment but I don't need my car on the road immediately. I live right next to work and the grocery store, so my bike works fine :D

Edit: Just ordered VCDS with KII-USB and a Bentley Manual.
 
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