[Rob.Achmann]

On the ATQ V6 4Mo…

Do you just press them out?

see the top side of the bushing:

it’s smaller, so that’s the side to push on?

The whole subframe, upside down:

And my plan to press them out: make them all level to the floor, put braces above and then press up from underneath:

Does this make sense?
Or is there a better (correct) way?

 

[Iowegian]

I don't have a V6 or a 4-motion but after looking at that first picture, I have to ask - why replace them?

 

[Rob.Achmann]

Well, there was seemingly a lot of corrosion inside the bolt hole, I don’t know how to test the bushings, and I wanted to properly clean up the rusty bushing holders, but also the thought of ‘when would I ever (want to) do this later, and my stupid head said- we’ll, you’ll have a crappy result if you replace every other bushing but not these guys and then wonder if that’s why I’m not completely satisfied with the re-done ride feel? I honestly don’t know what it should feel like, so I was thinking to replace all that I could to make it as best as possible. How many km’s can you get out of these specific bushings?

 

[AndreasPassat]

On the ATQ V6 4Mo…

Do you just press them out?

see the top side of the bushing:
View attachment 106869

it’s smaller, so that’s the side to push on?

The whole subframe, upside down:

View attachment 106870

And my plan to press them out: make them all level to the floor, put braces above and then press up from underneath:

View attachment 106871
Does this make sense?
Or is there a better (correct) way?

I gotta give credit for ingenuity on that press.
Bushings can be pressed in / out but it's kinda of a pain. Normally rubber bushings are pressed in with a very high velocity and a special kind of lube.
Not that I'm the foremost expert on this but I've got quite a bit of experience in the heavy industry sector for assembly.
Pressing the old one might be a struggle, might be easier to burn it out (literally) or cut it out.
Pressing the new ones in will be easier than getting the old ones out. Use a heavy oil like gear oil (75w). Slather the bushing with oil like its a spare rib with bbq sauce.
Just make sure everything is secure when your pressing.

 

[AndreasPassat]

Well, there was seemingly a lot of corrosion inside the bolt hole, I don’t know how to test the bushings, and I wanted to properly clean up the rusty bushing holders, but also the thought of ‘when would I ever (want to) do this later, and my stupid head said- we’ll, you’ll have a crappy result if you replace every other bushing but not these guys and then wonder if that’s why I’m not completely satisfied with the re-done ride feel? I honestly don’t know what it should feel like, so I was thinking to replace all that I could to make it as best as possible. How many km’s can you get out of these specific bushings?

Obviously a new OEM bushing should have a firm feel. Aftermarket upgraded or performance bushings will have even a stiffer feel to it.
My wife complains about her RAV4 being to stiff. I think the thing is sloppy as can be going down the road.
Meh, that wasn't a very good analogy. But the point I'm trying to make it's subjective from one person to another.
But 'generally' speaking my second sentence applies.

Km's in a life of a bushing?
That's also very subjective. You can put a million km's on a bushing that was only ever driven a smooth road. You can also put on a 80,000 km driving around on WI roads and they'll be junk.
Usually looking at a bushing will give you an estimate of it's integrity. If they're hard and crusty or show any signs of cracking, they need replacement.

 

[PZ]

Burn baby burn is the easiest, but messy and smelly. It's also safer for the subframe. Is the metal center section actually one piece? Grinding down the middle so the metal end section falls off may be better than burning.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

Burn baby burn is the easiest, but messy and smelly. …

I’ve got a concrete pad outside I can use - but cutting it out may be problematic as the reciprocating saw is so damn aggressive I may damage the end loops for the bushings. I think I’m gonna burn

 

[Rob.Achmann]

Pressing the new ones in will be easier than getting the old ones out. Use a heavy oil like gear oil (75w). Slather the bushing with oil like its a spare rib with bbq sauce.
Just make sure everything is secure when your pressing.

thanks

 

[Rob.Achmann]

Well - I found out that you can knock off the big underside plate which reveals the middle support:

a bit of torch will soften up the rubber connectors to the middle post. Use a smaller piece of wood (2x2) to then knock that out:

A knocked out center:

Then flip the whole think over because your left with a lip from the bushing.

Then use a slightly larger piece of wood after burning the rubber a bit on that side to make it easier to cut - and slice down all edges of rubber so the can collapse easier

you can even use a large screwdriver to pry or bend in the bushing frame from the edge prior to using the larger piece of wood.

Now I have to use a wire brush to clean up the spot and rust…

then rust bullet

 

[PZ]

That's what I was hoping for when I asked if the metal was one piece. One side looked to be steel, the other aluminum.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

That's what I was hoping for when I asked if the metal was one piece. One side looked to be steel, the other aluminum.

Would have been nice if everything was an aluminum alloy… no rust then - and lighter! Man, that thing is heavy. No such luck… hmmm, what if someone built both subframes from carbon fibre?? That an all the control arms. The car would lose about 200lbs! Haha

 

[PZ]

If you want to widen the back of the car, the C5 RS6 used aluminum subframes.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

If you want to widen the back of the car, the C5 RS6 used aluminum subframes.

That won’t help if the frame bolts don’t match… or do they?

 

[PZ]

I'm not certain and I don't have access to the RS6. I measured the S6 front mounts a long time ago to see how they line up with the Passat, but I don't know where I left the paperwork in the garage.

 

[Wahobbert]

Use a wheel bearing forcing screw set.