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Please notify me if I'm posting anything illegal here and I'll remove it. This is my experience of repairing my door lock after purchasing a kit from ebay. The kit does contain everything you need but I found the pictures / descriptions a bit unclear on what to do sometimes so this is my own worded version.

For anyone who asks I will not supply you with the instructions on how to repair it which were sent to me as they don't belong to me, the contents I'm about to post does however. I missed off a couple of pictures which I never thought of taking. Also please note if the pictures don't display try later, I host the files on my home PC so it's only showing when I'm on

Step1 : (pic missing) - open the door to be repaired. There should be a rubber plug which covers the lock screw access. All other screws are torx so you should have no problems identifying which one is rubber. When you have take it off

Step2 : (pic missing) - there will be a screw in here which you need to loosen before you can remove the lock. There is a special VW Tool for this but you can remove it using a T20 Torx Screwdriver. I've seen some instructions on how far to loosen it. Some say 3-4 turns and others say until it feels "tight". In my opinion the 2nd step is closest, just keep making small turns - the part where mine was loosest to remove the lock was approx 1cm from the hole where you put your tool through if it helps. My car is a 3B it may differ on each model. Once you have loosened it enough, I found the easier way to remove it was put my car keys in the damaged lock. Turn them left / right and use it as a lever to pull / wiggle the lock out. Worked a treat for me


Step3 : This is what the kit received from ebay contained. A new spring, a new paddle, clip and castle parts. Depending how bad your repair is your may need all, or in my case only one part.


Step4 : This is what your lock should look like with the outer cover still on


Step5 : The instructions I had suggested cleaning the lock barrel (I used kitchen towel and WD40) and it involves removing the outer cover. This picture shows the clips which hold it. Should be easy enough to figure out


Step6 : At this point after I put the barrel back into the plastic housing I placed the key in the lock incase anything worked loose.

Step7 : (pic missing) - I missed off this bit, I was actually stuck wondering on how to get the lock out with the broken parts. Bit of delving I figured it, at the top of the lock where the paddle is (the long rod thing) there is a clip it looks like a letter c. Put a screwdriver at the back of the C and rotate screwdriver sideways, this should provide enough force to remove the pressure holding it in
WARNING I would suggest holding the parts at this point because the spring underneath has some strength


Step8 : This is the parts of my lock once I removed it, you'll notice the broken bits which was causing my problems (castle). I simply needed to replace this part to repair mine.


Step9 : Just an inside shot of the barrel


Step10 : This is what the castle should look like when it's inside the lock. You should be able to work it out when fitted, as the castle has two locator holes which fit over the lock holes and there is a small notch which aligns with the missing section on the lock. I've tried to show it here


Step11 : This is where the spring goes in, when you are pushing the paddle down you need to twist it put the other end of the spring behind the catch roughly in the position of the arrow.
This part was a SERIOUS pain in the arse for me. I dont' have any tips for this, possible long nails and push the lock against your chest as you put downward pressure and turn it. It does go in but took me like 3 hrs as I ripped my nails to crap :mad:


Step12 : My newly repaired lock ta-da :wrench:

Step13 : (pic missing) - Refitting is a reversal of removal, have a look inside the door and make sure the plastic bit is straight up first not at an angle. To fit the lock you slightly pull the handle out to allow access, then push it in. Once the lock is flush with door tighten the screw. It makes a sort of a clunk noise (think it's the locks engaging with part of the lock system) and when tightened test it out

All should be working...... I take no responsiblity for anything you mess up :salute: comments and suggestions / tips welcome


EDIT : http://www.andrewhope.co.uk/Automotive/downloads/VW Lock Repair.pdf

The rest of andy's files on car repair can be found here: Personal Website and collaborative efforts for Andrew Hope. Moneysaving, Car Repairs and Information Technology
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I remember looking for a how to, found plenty of topics saying xxx was the problem but no guides on how to do it

I'll be improving this with better pics and more details next year as I'm doing my other door lock so I'll try to make an exact step by step with better pics

Was hoping if it's good enough it could be FAQ'd or something so people can use it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They only show when my PC is switched on, I host them on my website which is hosted on my PC :p

I'll upload them online somewhere (at some point) :D
 

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andyjh, have you rehosted the pix on a commercial server (photobucket or similar) and updated the links? when you do, I'll move this one to the info base forum...
 

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lol i just took mine apart and i think i should have waited until i had replacement parts. but the castle and the "c" clip is broken on mine.

the kits are 12.99 (british pounds) and 5.50 pounds to get shipped, thats about $30 (US) if im right. I think ill try to get a working complete cylinder somewhere close and just swap the tumbler section into the other shell of a working unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@Jay - I'll do it now, links should be updated in the new few minutes once they're all uploaded

@Dominick - Yes, sounds about right, about $30 shipped, not sure if swapping the tumbler section would work as I don't know much about the locks. I chose to get the repair kti as I didn't know what was broken and it's better than paying £90 to VW for a ew barrel and a cheaper amount to a scrap yard then swap over the tumblers. Too many things to go wrong imo; BUT if you feel comfortable doing that each to their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, I've now updated the links with permanent hosting, and a downloadable PDF

I'll be providing a better FAQ when I do the other lock on my car
 

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i think im going to switch my passenger door lock cylinder with the driver side. might as well have the working side on the most used (driver) side.

i have a question, when i unlock the driver side lock (with screw driver b/c the cylinder is out) it doesnt activate the central locks. You know how it sounds "electrical" when you normally unlock the door with the key, it was "mechanical". Its hard to explain.
but all i am doing is bypassing the tumblers, to the car the screwdriver should be the same as the paddle.

basically what i am trying to do is program my banjo key fob with only one key.

i hope this makes sense, does the lock cylinder also activates the central locking system?
 

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"Valis" would like to add the following info...

It should actually go...

1. castle bottom
2. spring
3. castle top
4. tail-end
5. retainer

making 4 first then 3 is going to cause the individual more grief and cutting up finger-nails, when no nails of the fingers are even needed. :)
 
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