How do I flush Brake Fluid?
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the vag-com cannt help you bleed the brake fluid.
the easiest way is to use a power bleeded like the one i bought for $50, the motive power bleeder. you put the new fluid in the 2 quart container, attack the container to the resevoir, instead of the cap, and pump the container to 20 psi. then go to the right read caliper, unscrew the bleeder valve and bleed until you see the fluid change color from the darker colored old stuff, to the lighter, most likley almost see-through new stuff. then close the bleeder screw...then go to the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. i would recommend doing this two times just to make sure.
if you have anymore ?'s feel free to post here, or pm me
the easiest way is to use a power bleeded like the one i bought for $50, the motive power bleeder. you put the new fluid in the 2 quart container, attack the container to the resevoir, instead of the cap, and pump the container to 20 psi. then go to the right read caliper, unscrew the bleeder valve and bleed until you see the fluid change color from the darker colored old stuff, to the lighter, most likley almost see-through new stuff. then close the bleeder screw...then go to the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. i would recommend doing this two times just to make sure.
if you have anymore ?'s feel free to post here, or pm me
Adirondak Auto Parts sells this for $45.00US. They also have the rear brake caliper retraction tool for $47.50..
Correct me if I am wrong, but if you had a brake fluid leak then you would need to use VagCom or a 1552 to cycle the ABS pump to purge out the air?
But for just a fluid flush on a functioning brake system you just need to push out the old fluid with new fluid by using the power bleeder.
But for just a fluid flush on a functioning brake system you just need to push out the old fluid with new fluid by using the power bleeder.
You can use a power bleeder, or if you have a compressor... get a vacuum bleeder. Takes a complete flushing and allows you to do everything within 3 mins. If you have open spoke wheels, sometimes you can get in between the spokes and get the fittings on right without having to remove wheels. :thumbup:
Steve
Steve
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VAG-COM is only good for flushing electrical fluids e.g. blinker fluid. :lol:
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I've written up a brake bleeding proceedure on my web site that you may find helpful: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm
You'll notice that I use a pressure bleeder to augment the bleeding process but not to replace a second person. I have yet to see a 1-person bleeding system that I like. Here are some comments I've made on the various systems out there, including SpeedBleeders: http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/braketool/bleeder.htm
You'll notice that I use a pressure bleeder to augment the bleeding process but not to replace a second person. I have yet to see a 1-person bleeding system that I like. Here are some comments I've made on the various systems out there, including SpeedBleeders: http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/braketool/bleeder.htm
so basically, my 20 psi's did not get all of the air bubbles out of my system when doing a complete flush of the system, and if there was no air in the system to begin with, im assuming it is still a closed system and the VW people who first bled my brakes didn't mess up, and i didn't add any air, by using the power bleeder, why would i want more pressure to blow air out of the system.DZeckhausen said:
basically, is it worth my efforts to waste another bottle of fluid just to top off and bleed the calipers one more time with the brake petal, even thought everything seems just fine, the new fluid didn't seem to do much, for my street driven car, petal still feels like stock fluid is in there, but im happy to know that the old [email protected] with water is out.
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If your pedal seems reasonably firm and you are happy with the way it feels, then there's no need to go back in and bleed the car over again. The most important thing is that you've got the old moisture-saturated fluid out of there, so there's less chance of corrosion and you've raised the boiling point, so there's less chance of fluid fade.jeffsu350 said:
Next time you bleed the brakes, between 12 and 24 months from now, you might want to try my technique. I've found that it almost always yields a slightly firmer pedal, even on brand new cars fresh from the factory. The technique becomes very important if you track your car and frequently find yourself chasing air bubbles out from having boiled the fluid.
ok, thanks for you quick response, i guess for now i will leave it, next time i will take your advice.
i reason i went with the powerbleeder is one, i could do it myself, and two, i heard that pumping your petal this way, such high psi for such a long time can damage or shorten the life of your master cylander, the power bleeder pushes the fluid in the direction it should flow and does not use the master cylander to pressurize the system.
maybe next time i will use the powerbleeder to flush the system and the final bleed will be with the brake petal, unless i read your article on the 1-man brake bleed incorrectly
i reason i went with the powerbleeder is one, i could do it myself, and two, i heard that pumping your petal this way, such high psi for such a long time can damage or shorten the life of your master cylander, the power bleeder pushes the fluid in the direction it should flow and does not use the master cylander to pressurize the system.
maybe next time i will use the powerbleeder to flush the system and the final bleed will be with the brake petal, unless i read your article on the 1-man brake bleed incorrectly
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