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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry this is so lengthy.
I have a '04 5.5 1.8 tip 4mo that I've been resurrecting. I've done many things to it. One being the snub, engine, and trans mounts. After doing so the idle vibrations were greatly improved, but a 2000+ rpm (under load) vibration appeared out of nowhere. All were replaced as per write-ups on here. Didn't think much of it cause it feels/sounds more like some throaty headers. Not normal but I can live with it. After months of driving like this my center diff output shaft is leaking. Started small now it's dripping more than tolerable. Ordered a flange gasket, shaft seal, cv grease, and some royal purple 75-90w. I'm trying to figure out if I'm about to put a bandaid on that's just going to leak again? Due to vibrations from the drive train.
I purchased crappy/cheap non oem mounts, so that could be the issue. I also read online, that cheap mounts could be too hard or soft? Also if the trans mounts aren't to spec. the drive line might be misaligned and causing issues. Either way I'm wondering if I should fix/figure out the vibrations before repairing the output shaft seal? And also if by jacking up the transmission (approx. 1"+- to do mounts) I put undue stress on that seal, causing it to leak?

Any thoughts or advice on the under load vibes, trans mounts, and output shaft seal issues would be appreciated immensely. This car project is starting to get out of hand and I really don't want to do things twice. Although I would redo mounts with OEM or just OE if it might help. Thanks
 

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Is the vibration in the shifter, through the whole car, or in the steering wheel? How many miles on the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for getting back. It's at 101k. Not surprised the output shaft is leaking with an 18 year old car. Just don't want to fix it only to have it leak shortly after. The vibrations are definitely throughout the car. Not particularly coming from any specific spot. But it certainly came on post snub, engine, and trans mount replacement. I changed them cause of excessive idle vibrations and those were mostly solved. But it seems strange that the vibrations only happen at and above 2k under load only. I can live with the vibrations unless they are going to screw up other things.
 

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Are the vibrations the same no matter the speed of the car? If so, I would start by checking that the snub mount is centered in the cup. With new mounts, the engine is often at a different height and the snub pressed at the top or bottom of the cup will cause vibrations. You can double-check the mounting bolts or "hang" the engine to try to find a neutral position for the mounts.
As for the leak, it's normal at that mileage and a new seal should fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah same at any speed any gear at 2k+, I've checked and rechecked alignment a few times. Aligned it per instructions on here, and preloaded it up and down. I definitely have had various outcomes on both sides of preloading, but the vibrations remain. I'm thinking it may just be something I live with. The OEM foam one seemed pretty soft, and the new cheap rubber one seems pretty darn stiff. I may try and find a softer one to try?

I'm going to say f it and fix the seal regardless.

While I'm down there, I'm also thinking about installing a remanned valve body in the tranny. It's had issues since I bought the car. Shifting abnormalities that have improved over time with a drain drop and fill. I'm tired of waiting for the solenoid or orifices to act properly. It may not work but I've read quite a few VB threads on here and perhaps it'll work.

Thanks for the reply, hope I'm getting to the bottom of the issues with this project.
 

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How are the front axles? An inner CV joint starting to fail can cause vibrations under load. Check for vertical play between the shaft and joint. It's possible the mounts just made it noticeable. The valve body is up to you, at least it can be done on the car. I had a failing torque converter on my 4Mo while it was a V6 in 2009. I started to feel a little rpm flare again several years later and decided to go with a manual swap. In the end, it was a 1.8T swap as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting, I'll check those out. Thanks. I installed a passenger side OEM outer cv joint when I first got the car. I'll give the axles a tug up and down. They definitely are hallow originals.
I've read though your threads about the torque converter issues. As well as Andreaspassat's, MisterT's, and a few others about valve bodies and non OEM fluids.
I'm now considering not swapping VBs and opting for a fluid change over that might clean things up quicker. I know you've had experience with d4, Mobil 1, and OEM. All the heretic threads start out fine but no longer term updates. I realize this has nothing to do with my original post, just spitballing. Are you aware of any longer term ill effects of switching to a non OEM fluid? Many are spec'ed now. Lots of opinions out there. It's been 10-15 years so no worries if nothing comes to mind.
My shaft seals come on Friday so I'll be doing those this weekend. I'll update/wrap up this, when things progress. Thanks
 

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I and others have had good luck with Valvoline MaxLife fluid as it is much cheaper than the OEM stuff and seems to work just fine. Remember that even with a pan drop and filter change you are only replacing about half the trans fluid so doing it more than once can make sense if the old fluid is really bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sweet that is good to hear. I was thinking maxlife. I've already done a pan drop, filter, and pentosin when I first got it. It definitely helped with the issues as time has progressed.(1.5k later) It's time for the next and really don't want to spend another 100 spot on pentosin 1. And another in 6 months. Being new to vws I went oem, but now I'm thinking f it. It may need a new valve body. But if I can clean things up with 70 bucks worth of maxlife, it's worth a try. Thanks for the input
 

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I've used Maxlife in multiple Passats and our 05 Golf. No complaints with any and we had 250K on my son's wagon with about the last 80K was on Maxlife. The Golf has about 55K on Maxlife.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not that this is an atf thread. But if you've stumbled here, an update. Drain and filled with maxlife atf and there was an immediate and marked improvement in shift quality an TC lockup. Not a 100% improvement but I'd say the issues reduced by 50%. Time will tell. And no it's not a placebo effect. Big ups to Iowegian and PZ. Cheers
 
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