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Discussion Starter #1
i have noticed this hissing recently. after i turn off the engine, it keeps hissing for 5 or so seconds and then the hissing sound slowly dies off. there is no engine light on but i dont think it was doing this before.
any idea? could this be normal behavior?

thanks
brano
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ok I spoke too soon. the engine light came on. had the codes read at Autozone and it came up with following:
P0171 system too lean (bank 1)
p0442 evaporative emission system leak (small leak)

likely solution: inspect faulty vacuum hoses and repai as necessary


so while checking hoses i found out that hissing comes from this part (images below), particularly the grove that runs around.
i am not into the cars but this part seems to be easily removed, inspected/repaired/replaced? what exactly is this part?
IMG_8368.jpg IMG_8367.jpg

thanks
brano
 

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looks like FSI engine ,what year? anyway go to ESC Tuning sight and put in cars yr. yada yada yada.......look up under Engine/Emissions and you should see the part .... PCV valve, surprised you got the airbox off that's half the battle ,easy to replace ...consider valve cover gasket etc....these FSI leak after awhile
 

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Discussion Starter #4
FSI it is, 2007 wagon. got PCV ordered along with gaskets. airbox removal is a chore for sure. thanks man.
 

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consider doing valve cover they tend to leak over time in corner (passenger side/ firewall side) down eventually to exhaust..... no hazard just annoying as hell... back to airbox ,if you have time take off the 4 (penis/volcano) male mounts and go to machine shop and have them take off about 25% of diameter, then clean grommets silicone grease both parts, makes it really easy , no more torn grommets, I also put "white out" dots at grommet locations on the airbox so I know where to pull next time around, these like their fore runner 1.8Ts are oil and crud sensitive, back corrugated pipe is a little bit of a pain in the ass but that diaphram check valve gets "iffy" also
 

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also just down and to the right of that is your N80 or fuel evap. "purge" valve that may be leaking or failing also as to "small leak codes"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just replaced pcv, easy fix, took maybe 15 minutes. i have replace purge valve recently too, as it was stuck open.
i might give the rest of the stuff you mention go, sometime soon, do you know of any video or t least image step by step?

thanks
brano
 

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just PM me with what you are going to do and will try and direct you to proper video/diagram/instruction or some of the stuff or I can walk you through, will give you my phone #, just remember these cars are a little sophisticated and quirky, I am on B5 forum a lot and more often than not somebody takes their car to a local mechanic and he throws shit at it and see what sticks, even the dealerships..these cars are not assembled by rocket scientists so most repairs unless catastrophic can be fixed by a better than average weekend warrior ...I am new to B6s, however pretty well versed in B5 and B5.5 models BUT patience, common sense, and these forums will get you through it..... just about everyone who posts here have a problem or have experience in that problem ,nobody is on here if they are rich or have or have had no problems with the Passats, they are great cars sorta like women though in disposition and behavior HA! Glad you got it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cchief, thanks again, i found pretty decent guide on valve cover/seal replacement. it definitely looks like something i can handle. if you dont mind i would like to pick your brain with one other issue that was pointed to me at dealership while i had car there for recall work. they suggested that the front cv axles to be removed and replaced as they are worn or something. he mentioned it should be done within next 10k miles but i tend to take these suggestions with the gain of salt. anyways, i looked at the boots and they are clean and no tears, no sludge on the wheels. any other signs i should look for? is this something fairly easy to do if needed. i found the quote they gave me for this job pretty outrageous.
 

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Looks like cchief22 has you taken care of with PM but if there is anything he isn't able to help with you can PM me too. The B6 is my specialty so I may know more (but I bet he knows a lot more than me about the B5 from the sound of it).

As for axles, if the boots are good and there are no vibrations while driving or typical bad axles grinds then you're fine and they are most likely just bullshitting you. However, if you wanted to replace the axles, you can certainly do it yourself, it's not that bad. The summarized version is: 1) wheel caps off, crack axle bolt loose a bit (24mm 12pt socket, or it might be the old hex style, forget which size that one is but it may be 27mm), 2) car up on stands, 3) disconnect lower control arm from balljoint OR just remove LCA entirely for more room (this is especially helpful on the drivers side because the bolts for the stubby axle are a bit hard to get at), 4) remove axle to trans bolts then remove axle spline to wheel bearing bolt, 5) with a 16mm socket on the end of an extension and a mallet, line up the socket very carefully on the end of the spline in wheel bearing, and gently tap extension several times to get axle most of the way out, making sure that with each tap your socket is still centered on the axle spline and has not shift to the wheel bearing spline wall b/c you don't wanna damage that of course, 6) with axle spline mostly out just use one arm/hand on the hub assembly and one on axle to pull them apart and axle will come out. Re-install is pretty much in reverse. Make sure to use good grease for axle splines, to use NEW axle bolts (especially the axle to wheel bearing, but technically should replace axle to trans bolts too), loctite the axle to trans bolts, torque spec everything (axle to trans bolts if M8 are 30ftlbs and M10 are 50ftlbs; axle to bearing will be 70ftlbs plus 180 degree turn at curbweight for the 24mm 12pt which dealer always gives as replacement these days but the old hex style torque spec is WAAAAAY higher so if you have those in right now they will take a big breaker bar to get loose; control arm to ball joint nuts are ~30ftlbs, 18mm LCA bolts (2) are ~55 ft-lbs and LCA 16mm bolts are ~33ft lbs. Then get an alignment when it's all done.

May consider replacing LCA bracket bushings as they are likely fairly worn if the vehicle has more than 70k on it. You can replace the bushings themselves but you'll need to take the brackets and bushings to a shop to have them pressed in unless you have the equipment for that. Alternately you can just buy brackets with bushings already in. Also STRONGLY consider replacing ball joints as they are a cheap part and with the axle out of the way already it takes an extra 10 minutes per side to replace the ball joints. All you need is a special clamping tool (rentable for free at autozone) that you use to press them out, then pop new ones in and done.

Think that's about it off the top of my head. I can go into more detail if you decide to do it.... Any other questions feel free to ask too.


Edit: I'd like to also add something regarding the valve cover gasket that you said you'd be doing. The DIYs out there are generally good, I mean, it's a pretty damn simple replacement but I should mention 2 things: a lot of people think that those gaskets are supposed to get RTV... They are NOT!! These are not that kind of gasket, they are to be considered more like an o-ring in the sense that VW does not specify and sealer for these, just a clean mating surface and a light coat of clean oil on gasket. If you are going to use RTV as some people have insisted in the past, despite my warnings, you should ONLY use a small bit on the corners and the half-moon portions of the gasket. But you genuinely, truly do not need any. I've installed numerous gaskets without any on FSI and years later there is not a hint of leak. You're more likely to develop a leak from use of a subpar sealer/RTV or just overuse in general than by not using at all.

Another tip, the valve cover itself is a source of issue with this motor. The valve cover has complicated passageways build into it for routing of PCV gases. There is a splash plate seal integral to the underside of the valve cover that keeps the PCV flow sealed off from the head. This seal can fail over time and mileage and when this happens the PCV pressure pulls oil splash from the head eventually to the rear PCV hose, through turbo, into boost pipes, and so on. This is one of a few causes for rapid oil burn on the FSI. Depending on the mileage on your motor you may consider replacing the valve cover altogether as the chances this will occur increase quite a bit if you're in the 100k+ mile range. Typical sign that this is happening is if your car is drinking oil but there are definitely NO leaks and you are NOT blowing any blue smoke (which would be a sign of blown turbo seal or piston ring). I have a few used valve covers laying around, one of them only has ~50k miles on it and if you're interested in replacing yours I could ship it to you and save you quite a bit of money. If not, I totally understand.

Good luck with your upcoming work.


Edit 2:

If you want an informative, but long, read on the FSI and pretty much everything to look out for, see my big post on this thread here: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/volkswagen-passat-b6-discussion/537897-2009-vw-passat-2-0t-sedan-reliability.html
 

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thy harrowing, good to know as I am relatively new to the B6s so WILL be contacting you! I know the B5's pretty much inside and out mechanically but knowledge of B6 limited and apply through assimilation of the two models ,similarities and such, thanks! best regards,Chief
 

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Sounds great man, glad to help any time. We'd make a good team on this forum since I know much less about the B5 other than natural similarities.
 
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