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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so will be getting some HIDs in and not that I will do it myself or anything like that but I just want to know what I will need to do.

New fuses??? to replace what current ones?
Any other things?
I will not have levelers - do I need them or can I adjust them on the light?

Also, question on DRLs - do they HAVE to be disabled?
If so, why do they have to be disabled? Do they come on W8s this way in the US?
What method is best to disble them - Relay 173 or taping pins?

Thanks, just want to get everything straightened before I start.
 

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15amp mini fuses . . .

Pulling 173 is the best way . .

they have to be disabled because they only run 75% power to the ballast and its not enough to ignite the HIDS
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When it's not enough to ignite the HIDs, what happens? They just do not turn on?

So the 15 amp fuses should replace the current 10 amp headlight fuses? Should they be 20 amp or does it not matter all too much.

Thanks.

Anyone know about levelers? Can I just adjust on the light itself?
 

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the HIDs run at 35w, but i think the starting surge is higher. the stock halogens run at 55w. the HIDs will turn on, but i don't think it's good for the ballast.

i haven't changed the fuses on my HIDs, and haven't had any problems yet.

you can adjust them manually. there are two adjustment holes at the top of the headlight. use a 6mm hex to turn it.
 

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RL331 said:
When it's not enough to ignite the HIDs, what happens? They just do not turn on?

So the 15 amp fuses should replace the current 10 amp headlight fuses? Should they be 20 amp or does it not matter all too much.

Thanks.

Anyone know about levelers? Can I just adjust on the light itself?
15Amp is fine . . . that's what I was told when i purchased mine from parts4vws.com

and yes . . . they just don't turn on. Well actually what happened in my case was that they blew out the fuse.

Dave
 

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RL331 said:
Also, question on DRLs - do they HAVE to be disabled?
If so, why do they have to be disabled? Do they come on W8s this way in the US?
What method is best to disble them - Relay 173 or taping pins?
In the U.S.-spec W8, the HID's function as DRL's.

Removing relay 173 is the easiest method. Bending pins on the headlight switch is probably easier than taping the pins (at least it was for me). I think you have a euroswitch, so you'd have to bend or tape 2 pins, thus the relay is easier. When I tried taping pins, I couldn't get the tape to stay on.
 

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Okay Rl331 lets see if we can summarize the info for you.

In preparation for the installation of the HIDS these are some things you will have to do.

1. Upgrade the fuse amperage
2. disable the DRL on your car because it did not come with HIDS
3. Aim the head light to factory spec

Just in case you wondered why:

It is not good to run a lower voltage to the HID ballast because the ballast is simply a transformer that steps up the voltage but it need a constant input voltage. Since that already are designed to acept 12v reduced power puts a strain on the transformer to produce higher volts with a lower input voltage.

W8's have HID and DRL to accomplish this the DRL's run the HID's a full power so the ballasts are not damaged.

I don't know how recent it is but I think there is not a federal law that states if a Manufacter offers a vehicle for sale with HIDs it must have a leveling system to minimize blinding of oncoming traffic.

What would this me for us who instal them on our cars nothing much some states may say it is illegal if they some law down on the book but otherwise it should not be a problem if you headlight are aimed correctly.

Even if you have either an automatic or manual headlight leveling system you still have to aim you headlight correctly otherwise none of that other stuff matters.
 

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i know someone put up a post about taking a CCM from a W8, and set up his W8 hids so that they were auto-adjusting.

but that is unnessisary, you can just adjust them manually.

just curious, how much for HID conversion, and how hard an install for anyone who has done this.

is there no way to make the DRL's run at 100% power so the HID's could act as DRL's as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
NoneRock said:
Damn Ricky, it's one new thing after the other :thumbup:
:)

OK so I'll upgrade my fuses - again, how many are there? Is it one for each headlight?

Some people do not upgrade their fuses and the HIDs work fine - I'm puzzled :???:
 

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RL there is one fuse per headlight the talk of upgrade stemmed from b5's the earlier ones had lower amp fused so they had to up the amperage that the fuse would allow. But of course with german car (all) makes they are notorious for in production line changes so it was hard to tell.

So quite possibly you may not have to upgrade the fuses at all.

Just keep it in mind if when you install the lights turn them on and something goes pop then you will know for sure that the fuse amp should be upped by 5 amps don't go to high we still want protection before something gets damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
phantom GLI said:
RL there is one fuse per headlight the talk of upgrade stemmed from b5's the earlier ones had lower amp fused so they had to up the amperage that the fuse would allow. But of course with german car (all) makes they are notorious for in production line changes so it was hard to tell.

So quite possibly you may not have to upgrade the fuses at all.

Just keep it in mind if when you install the lights turn them on and something goes pop then you will know for sure that the fuse amp should be upped by 5 amps don't go to high we still want protection before something gets damaged.
:thumbup:
 
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