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CCM & wiring, repair.
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices need
to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.

Have a good look at this link, before you start. (Note: This is a UK car, the CCM is always on the LHS)

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
Water Ingress and Solutions

Rear Door Regulator Panel


Door open switch not working, Re-solder all connections on the door lock PCB. The red wire and blue wire go to the door open switch.
Front Door Lock (Rear doors are similar)
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)

Door Lock Mechanism Repair (With Pics) (Modified copy from www.taligentx.com)
Also check the wiring and connectors between the doors and pillars.

All Doors.
Additional information on the "puddle light/door open switch".


Also check the wiring and connectors in the boots between the doors and pillars, and all ground connections.
 

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2002 Passat Wagon 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
CCM & wiring, repair.
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices need
to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.

Have a good look at this link, before you start. (Note: This is a UK car, the CCM is always on the LHS)

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
Water Ingress and Solutions

Rear Door Regulator Panel


Door open switch not working, Re-solder all connections on the door lock PCB. The red wire and blue wire go to the door open switch.
Front Door Lock (Rear doors are similar)
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)

Door Lock Mechanism Repair (With Pics) (Modified copy from www.taligentx.com)
Also check the wiring and connectors between the doors and pillars.

All Doors.
Additional information on the "puddle light/door open switch".


Also check the wiring and connectors in the boots between the doors and pillars, and all ground connections.
Everything looks like new! No signs of water in the well and all wires look healthy wrapped up in the harness.
Carpet Under padding looks like it was never exposed to water. like new

I was hoping to find a wiring diagram for the rear lid release button. Looks like a solid brown and solid blue wires fro the actuator.
If the same wiring colors run's into the CCM I can tap into the leads and see if a signal is coming out when I press the trunk release on the remote or door panel.. That way I can determine if its a wiring issue from the CCm or enroute to the rear lid. What do you think?
 

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How you trying to open the rear hatch? The FOB just enables the rear latch for a few seconds so the sequence is 1) push the button on the FOB then manually open the hatch within a second or two. If you wait too long you will need to push the button on the FOB again.

The hatch will not open by itself from pushing the FOB button unless the CCM is re-programmed a rubber bumper installed to push it open.

My memory is foggy but I think it's the same for the button in the door - pull up the button then quickly run back and open the hatch.
 

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You don't need to run. I just tested mine with stock coding on my CCM. At least on my 2004 B5.5, this is what it is. I used a stopwatch

Vehicle armed: pressed the hatch button on the remote until the lights flashed (confirmation that it received the signal). Set a timer for one minute. Opened hatch by pulling on the hatch handle/switch.
Vehicle disarmed: same behavior as above.
Vehicle disarmed: opened the door, pulled switch on driver door. Waited at least a minute, then opened the hatch.

It was too hot outside to test much longer, but in theory, it would keep the hatch unlocked until you opened and closed it, or rearm the alarm.

If you disarm the alarm and do not open a door, it should rearm 30 seconds later.
 
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It was too hot outside...
Really? :p
You need to come down here and spend a few hours in my RV. Your skin will slide off your body like the outer ring of a marsh mellow in the fire.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You don't need to run. I just tested mine with stock coding on my CCM. At least on my 2004 B5.5, this is what it is. I used a stopwatch

Vehicle armed: pressed the hatch button on the remote until the lights flashed (confirmation that it received the signal). Set a timer for on minute. Opened hatch by pulling on the hatch handle/switch.
Vehicle disarmed: same behavior as above.
Vehicle disarmed: opened the door, pulled switch on driver door. Waited at least a minute, then opened the hatch.

It was too hot outside to test much longer, but in theory, it would keep the hatch unlocked until you opened and closed it, or rearm the alarm.

If you disarm the alarm and do not open a door, it should rearm 30 seconds later.

"pressed the hatch button on the remote until the lights flashed"

Well the lights don't flash when I try to enable that, so I assume the CCM is not receiving the command?
The Door lock, door unlock and Panic commands are working with the remote.
The Fuel flap unlock works from door panel switch.
But the hatch unlock from the door panel switch does not.

Where to go from here?

The wires for the hatch release are solid blue and brown. Brown I assume is the universal ground being negative. I'm hoping the solid blue is not used anywhere else on the car to the CCM and is exclusive for the hatch release.
I'm having trouble tracing the wire from the actuator to the CCM. I'm guessing the door panel hatch release button is connected to the blue wire also and is using a separate power source which may have a diode to prevent power being sent back to the CCM when enabled and directed to the actuator.
I would hope to get the door panel switch to work if the remote option fails.
It would be a lot better than inserting the key into the hatch especially when its dark with no lights or if the snow ends up icing over it in the winter.
 

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You could replace the door panel switch or just take it out, open it up and clean it. I had to do that to my fuel flap switch once.

If the door locks are working from the remote then the CCM is getting (at least some) signals so I doubt that is the problem.

It could be in the wiring to the hatch or the hatch actuator itself could be bad. It's not hard to take the back trim off the hatch so you can access the wiring there. That would allow you to see if a signal is getting to the hatch and it is not responding or if there is no signal getting to the rear hatch.

My memory is foggy but I think the rear key switch also has 3 positions. 1 locks it, 2 keeps it closed but allows it to be opened from the button and 3 (spring loaded position) opens the hatch. I'm not sure about that but check if you can turn the key position 90 degrees without opening the hatch. IIRC, 1 and 2 are 90 degrees apart and 3 is past 2 and is spring loaded as it opens the hatch.
 

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Really? :p
You need to come down here and spend a few hours in my RV. Your skin will slide off your body like the outer ring of a marsh mellow in the fire.
Hey, I had been sitting in a 72° house all day and it was bout 70% humidity and low 90s outside. It was a bit of a shock. When I go to the gym, it is all open, so we are in 90+ temps and going hard for an hour. I just prefer not to sometimes ;)
 
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Ross Tech changed the name Vag-Com to VCDS, and the last time I checked it was still available, the basic light version is free.
A scan with VCDS would be very helpful, it would read all fault codes. You do have some.

1. Trunk unlock relay or its wiring. (I think it is in one of the relay panels behind the dash)
Do not connect 12V to trunk unlock motor while it is connected to the wiring. (Both terminals are connected to ground while the relay is inactive)
2. CCM or its wiring. Check/re-solder if any cracked solder joints on PCB, check relays on PCB. See post #21.
3. Fuse #38 supplies power to the door unlock motor through the relay.

Driver door open switch circuit not working, re-solder all connections on the door lock PCB, and check the door open switch.
See links in post #21.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I've been trying to solve this problem from the moment I joined Passat World. I had also listed other issues hoping they would somehow be connected. Apparently Not! I do wish to thank all of you who contributed to solving those issues (like the Cruise Control mystery)
I'm now back to my initial problem Bank 2 Sensor 2 No activity. 0160 error code. But this time after speaking with a few mechanics, which claimed from their experience, after having O2 sensor problems and changing it '3' times only to find out the problem was the fuse all along!

.Apparently the error code only appears after driving for 5 to 10 minutes, not right away. You would think, if it was a fuse, you would get the error code right then and there. but No! It takes a while.
How do I know that for sure? Easy
I unplugged the sensor and drove for about 20 minutes before the engine light came on then read the engine codes
So now after testing all those fuses on the drivers side dash (left side) I'm stumped to find it.
Found this but nothing about O2 sensor.....http://passatb5.wikidot.com/fuse-diagram
Any help greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
You don't need to run. I just tested mine with stock coding on my CCM. At least on my 2004 B5.5, this is what it is. I used a stopwatch

Vehicle armed: pressed the hatch button on the remote until the lights flashed (confirmation that it received the signal). Set a timer for on minute. Opened hatch by pulling on the hatch handle/switch.
Vehicle disarmed: same behavior as above.
Vehicle disarmed: opened the door, pulled switch on driver door. Waited at least a minute, then opened the hatch.

It was too hot outside to test much longer, but in theory, it would keep the hatch unlocked until you opened and closed it, or rearm the alarm.

If you disarm the alarm and do not open a door, it should rearm 30 seconds later.
That worked great! Thank you!
Any chance you know if there is a fuse for the oxygen sensors? I'm getting P0160 error code ( no activity) Its kinda weird since it take about 5 to 10 minutes to show for the left bank downstream. So I disconnected it completely and again it takes about the same time to show . I spoke to a mechanic who changed an O2 sensor 3 times on a different vehicle only to find out it was the fuse all along. Not sure if this is the case but can't figure it out after swapping the left side one with the right side one and getting same error code?
 

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Fuse #34 supplies power to the 4 O2 sensors, and several other items.
You would have about a dozen fault codes if fuse #34 was blown.

I suggest you check all the wiring and connectors from fuse #34 and the ECU to the O2 sensor.
 

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Trace and back probe the O2 sensor wiring to the ECU to check for continuity.

Download the repair manual PDF I have in my B5.5 google drive and look through the wiring diagrams starting on page 140. The 2.8l should start around page 185

Elsewhere in the 10k plus page guide, there are procedures on how to back probe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thank you very much for this info.
Now all I have to do is set a few hours off to the side to start reading.
Cheers Dan!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Fuse #34 supplies power to the 4 O2 sensors, and several other items.
You would have about a dozen fault codes if fuse #34 was blown.

I suggest you check all the wiring and connectors from fuse #34 and the ECU to the O2 sensor.
I'll give it a try thanks!
 

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It is always best to stick to the rules and stay with one thread for one issue.
Please stay with the original thread until resolved.
 

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It is always best to stick to the rules and stay with one thread for one issue.
Please stay with the original thread until resolved.
Thanks for pointing this out. I merged the two threads.
 
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