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2002 Passat Wagon 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a designation ID for this car? I see B5, B6, B7 etc listed in all the topics but unable to figure out which one is for my car?

Hopefully when someone replies to let me know the correct area to post my question, I'm going to post it here for now.
I have 4 problems with this vehicle (for now, lol)

1. O2 Sensor no activity detected after driving 15 - 20 minutes (then when code is cleared repeats same procedure)
2. Rear hatch door release does not work with remote or driver side door switch, but works with key mechanically.
3. Cruise control, no response what so ever
4. Driver side door does not activate interior lights when open, other doors do.

I suspected the trunk actuator to be the culprit but when checking there is no voltage going to it when activated (with remote or door switch)
I was hoping it was a fuse but I cannot see any burnt ones on the drivers’ side dash panel.
My main problem is after replacing the O2 sensor ( downstream on the drivers side) because the exhaust pipe broke off at the flex connector and fell off the car dragging it along with the cable yanked out of the O2)
I after replacing the O2 sensor (NTK 25597) I would get a P0160 code "No activity detected Bank 2 Sensor 2" after driving for about 15 to 20 minutes every time. Then I would reset and it would repeat again
I contacted NTK regarding this replacement O2 sensor for this car and after a few phone calls and about an hour with tech support I was told the sensor was not the problem. The simple test was to switch the connectors at the firewall and see if the error code followed that sensor from Bank 1 Sensor 1 since both sensors are the same part numbers.
It did not make a difference. I even physically changed them over and still had the same response
It would still show Bank 2 Sensor 2 No activity again
The only conclusion I could come up with is whether the wiring from the firewall connector to the ECM might be the problem or can the ECM be the problem? If it was wiring it should be consistent, I assume and engine light should come on within a few minutes if it was wiring. It’s a 4 wire O2 and 2 leads are heater wires. So, I don’t see warming up to be the reason?
Not knowing how the Cruise control unit works I can only assume it’s controlled by the ECM perhaps this is all related to the problem?
Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards G
 

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2002 is a B5.5; a facelift model of the B5. Moved this to the correct forum.

Each forum header has a quick description of the model years it covers, btw
Font Screenshot Number Rectangle Parallel


1. Please post all the exact code(s) you are getting, whether you think they are related or not. Anything other than the P0160?
This link may help with some diagnosis once you post those codes.
2. What engine do you have? One could possibly deduce what you have from your post, but it's better to come out and say it. Mileage too, please.

3. And lastly, Welcome!!!
 

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2002 Passat Wagon 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
2002 is a B5.5; a facelift model of the B5. Moved this to the correct forum.

Each forum header has a quick description of the model years it covers, btw
View attachment 106726

1. Please post all the exact code(s) you are getting, whether you think they are related or not. Anything other than the P0160?
This link may help with some diagnosis once you post those codes.
2. What engine do you have? One could possibly deduce what you have from your post, but it's better to come out and say it. Mileage too, please.

3. And lastly, Welcome!!!
Thank you for your reply and assistance with the 'B' designation and warmest welcome!.
It is 2.8L 30V and has only 167,000 KM and the only code was the P0160 as mentioned early.
This was brought up from the US and was in miles per hour which has been reprogrammed to KM since then.

When I first ordered the 02 Sensor I purchased it from germanparts.ca here in Toronto. On their website they claim to sell OEM Bosch parts but surprisingly sell a left and a right O2 sensor. I was very specific when speaking with the sales agent about it being Bosch he said it was definitely side specific I was hoping for it to say Audi like the original one. When I received it it was marked CHINA! No Bosch stamping and some obscure part numbers. But in a Bosch Box!.Needless to say they lost their credibility on that one and I sent it back. I did not try it in case they would have a reason to charge restocking or refuse the return. I then called around the local parts suppliers and all that was shown was the NTK product. The parts store reinforced what NTK said same part both sides. I also called the dealer and at double the price I passed.I mentioned to the NTK tech support that the car was from the states and maybe their emissions standards are more strict and perhaps there is another part number. He said they only sell this product in both countries.

I'm not sure what else I can add? I noticed on the dash the Red LED panel indicator for Seat belts, Minutes,etc is not always bright. It varies every time I drive it. sometimes bright and clear other times not. It may mean nothing but as I said not sure what else to add
Thank you for the Ross-Tech link
I made some notes on the attached file. Not sure what Readiness Testing means but found out what Malfunction Indicator Lamp meant..Engine light!

Regards G
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome.

Did you fix the flex pipe?
Yes I welded on a straight pipe instead of the flex connector. It didn't seam to make any sense to have it there the way the exhaust is suspended and travels to the muffler.
The left side flex pipe is still in good condition. Which is very unusual since our winters here are drowning in saltwater and the left side (curb lane) where the salt water pools the most does the a great deal of damage to the left side of the car. Yet surprisingly this car has zero body rust. I'm quite impressed considering most cars here have a little rust here and there
 

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Yes I welded on a straight pipe instead of the flex connector. It didn't seam to make any sense to have it there the way the exhaust is suspended and travels to the muffler.
The left side flex pipe is still in good condition. Which is very unusual since our winters here are drowning in saltwater and the left side (curb lane) where the salt water pools the most does the a great deal of damage to the left side of the car. Yet surprisingly this car has zero body rust. I'm quite impressed considering most cars here have a little rust here and there
They seem to have very good under coating and rust proofing for 20 year old cars. The body rust on mine is only where the muds flaps were supposed to be but somehow got removed. The flex pipes are the notorious exception to this rule, they fail on a routine basis and generate O2 sensor errors when the flow rate or voltage differs between any of the four in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes I welded on a straight pipe instead of the flex connector. It didn't seam to make any sense to have it there the way the exhaust is suspended and travels to the muffler.
The left side flex pipe is still in good condition. Which is very unusual since our winters here are drowning in saltwater and the left side (curb lane) where the salt water pools the most does the a great deal of damage to the left side of the car. Yet surprisingly this car has zero body rust. I'm quite impressed considering most cars here have a little rust here and there
I have more to add to this mystery. I also posted in a different section under Vag-com

I just found out about Vag-Com on this site only to see that it is no longer available and replaced by TOAD.

I think my 02 Passat computer may have been re-programmed. I just realized there was no annoying seat belt reminder sound and the driver's door does not turn on the inside light when opened. The other doors do.

I just tried an experiment tonight and rolled down the drivers window, closed the door and pressed the door lock on the remote. The door locks worked, the red light on the drivers lock button is flashing the alarm is on.
I reached inside to open the door from the outside of the car, opened the door and nothing!
Did not trip off the alarm!
Could it have been re-programmed or is the door switch broken or disabled?

I guess I have keep reading, the answer has to be here somewhere!
 

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I don't know if the hatch is like the trunk or not, but are you getting a warning on the dash? Something is wrong with my trunk lid switch and even if it's closed it will throw a trunk lid open warning. Then I have to manually unlock it and slam it shut because the FOB won't work when it thinks it's already open. No clue if that helps or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't know if the hatch is like the trunk or not, but are you getting a warning on the dash? Something is wrong with my trunk lid switch and even if it's closed it will throw a trunk lid open warning. Then I have to manually unlock it and slam it shut because the FOB won't work when it thinks it's already open. No clue if that helps or not.
The trunk open switch is working and shows it on the dash. I would have suspected it to be the hatch (trunk, lid?) switch on the drivers side panel but it doesn't work with the remote so it must be something else. I was hopping to see it marked on the fuse panel and If it is Its not labeled. I tested all the fuses with a continuity meter they are all good. It must be a relay hidden some where. If only I had the schematics!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's possible that it has been reprogrammed but broken door switches are very common on these cars.
Any idea where the door switch may be located? there's nothing on the door jamb that I could see.I thought it may have been a magnetic type somewhere but i couldn't see that either. I'm guessing inside the door lock latch?
 

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It's the whole door lock assembly.

 

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The trunk open switch is working and shows it on the dash. I would have suspected it to be the hatch (trunk, lid?) switch on the drivers side panel but it doesn't work with the remote so it must be something else. I was hopping to see it marked on the fuse panel and If it is Its not labeled. I tested all the fuses with a continuity meter they are all good. It must be a relay hidden some where. If only I had the schematics!
If it doesn't work with the remote or the switch, there may be a break in the wiring or corrosion under the carpet near the CCM.
 

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The trunk open switch is working and shows it on the dash. I would have suspected it to be the hatch (trunk, lid?) switch on the drivers side panel but it doesn't work with the remote so it must be something else. I was hopping to see it marked on the fuse panel and If it is Its not labeled. I tested all the fuses with a continuity meter they are all good. It must be a relay hidden some where. If only I had the schematics!
Are you holding the button down or just pressing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Are you holding the button down or just pressing it?
Both,

I connected a 12V buzzer (that works with 5V also) to the actuator connection to hear if it is getting any voltage. The original actuator was apart and the little motor and cover was missing. I salvaged an actuator from a Chrysler Van that I scraped thinking I could make it work but before I do that I wanted to make sure it was receiving voltage. I first used my multi meter and no voltage at all. So I hooked up this buzzer thinking maybe jiggling some wires from the lid to the harness may help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it doesn't work with the remote or the switch, there may be a break in the wiring or corrosion under the carpet near the CCM.
Is it located under the driver side carpet or passenger? I also read something about behind the glove box?
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm going to look into the CCM its possible there may be water or corrosion in the wiring just read that from old posts.
 

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Sorry, it is on the driver side under the seat. Inspect all the wiring and splices. The splices corrode the easiest and either break connection totally, or are flaky at best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I pulled the carpet back to reveal the CCM and everything looked good. Wires look intact and the area was dry with no signs of moisture or water anywhere at any time.
I was hoping to find a corroded wire some where but no luck.
I was shocked to see all those connectors under the panel for the hood release cover just above the CCM harness.! What a complex arrangement!
After seeing that I thought to myself what kind of a nightmare did I get myself into!
 
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