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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 2000 passat with manual trans and ATW engine and 204k miles is misbehaving. she's been hitching and bucking under acceleration so i have been looking for vacuum leaks. so far i haven't found any bad hoses and poured water around the intake manifold and TB mating surfaces and they show no signs of leakage. wish i had a smoker. i vacuum tested some of the small lines like to the DV but the larger diameter hoses (like the one off the manifold to the suction pump)are a problem because i don't have adapters large enough to check them...does anyone have some tips on thoroughly checking all vacuum lines? should i be looking for something else ? oh, i did get a P1136 code...deleted it and have driven the car several hundred miles since and it has not yet returned. fuel trims are [email protected] idle and 1.56 part throttle.
thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
plugs are BCP6ET. old ones were BKR6Es. there are only 3k miles on them. i think i am ok there. not getting any codes for misfires. is the vacuum tank under the drives side fender?
i am going to crawl under the car tomorrow and look at the boost side of things.
 

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I suggest you replace the plugs with the correct NGK BKUR6ET plugs. You are very likely to have problems like you have with anything else in that engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
BCP6ETs are approved for ATWs. pulled the plugs and they were textbook in appearance. tomvw, why do you like BKUR6ET? what makes them better that BKR6Es...which are the standard for stock ATWs in my region.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just googled BKUR6ET which took me to advanced auto parts. there i did parts compatability check and found that this plug is not compatible with my engine. tomvw, best double check your source before i research further.
 

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The description in your opening post is typical of failing plugs, are they set to the correct gap 0.032" (0.8mm) ?


My Haynes manual says BKUR6ET. It appears that VW used a couple of different plugs in the 1.8 over the years.
I suggest you use one of them, and ignore what Advanced Auto Parts or anyone else, states are, or are not compatible.


PFR6Q or copper BKR6E. .032 gap. If chipped, go for .028 gap. that's it, end of story. Close the thread.......no, really.
Just found this-
According to the Chilton's manual, "routine maint and tune up: 1-39", NGK BKUR6ET is the oem plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
plugs are gapped at the factory. they are the 3 prong variety. BCP6ETs are similar in appearance to BKUR6ET. didn't know you could gap this type. i have a chilton manual that also recommends BKUR6ET. the book, i believe was published before the ATW engine was available.

thanks for you input tomvw. hows everything on the other side of the planet...got many vdub drivers there?
 

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The 3 prong plugs are factory set and not adjustable, but must be 0.032" for a standard 1.8.
Note: NGK lists the BKR6EKUB plugs for my V6 as 0.032" (0.8mm) gap, but they make them to the correct gap of 0.063" (1.6mm).

You could try some real time monitoring of misfires, fuel trims etc, but with your symptoms I would first try another set of plugs.
BKR6E would be OK. You asked why I don't like them, they work fine it's just because they don't last long.

I am not saying there is a problem with the BCP6ET plugs, but I do not know of anyone successfully using them.
Autolite also have plugs listed for the 1.8, but they are well known to be a problem.


This side of the planet is fine, but a bit on the cold side at the moment. There are many VWs here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i have an old set (bkr6e)that are ok. i can try them. i have monitored measuring blocks for misfires and there are none. i can look at fuel trims and o2 sensor voltages but i don't know what values i should be seeing. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
still trying to zero in on this annoying fault. the car is a 2000 passat, ATW engine code, manual. hesitates under wide-open throttle. idles nice though. looked for and have so far found no vacuum or boost leaks. changed plugs with bkr6e. cleaned throttlebody and MAF sensor. perhaps some of you could help me with measuring block values. before cleaning MAF sensor, i was reading about 65 g/s indicated flow through MAF. after cleaning, reading about 70g/s. no appreciable difference but sounds low to me. i did get a code (p1136) but it has not come back since clearing it. block 32 shows .75% at idle and .00 - 1.56 part throttle. that doesn't sound normal. what should these values be?
i also get an occational emission workshop message and recently got random missfires.

as long as i do not push the car to its limits it drives fine.

thanks.
 

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The op describes a misfiring situation, but if there is no misfiring it is most likely a boost problem, check with a boost gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the turbo is indeed turning and making good boost from the feel of the car, but somehow its sound is a bit different on cold starts. i will investigate. never checked boost. where do i tap into it? can a scan tool read it? how did the fuel trims look? thanks.
 

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I thought it should be a bit higher than that, but 70 is way too low. The last time I had a 1.8T with a P1136, it was a bad maf (11+ years ago).
 

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the turbo is indeed turning and making good boost from the feel of the car, but somehow its sound is a bit different on cold starts. i will investigate. never checked boost. where do i tap into it? can a scan tool read it? how did the fuel trims look? thanks.

That different sound on cold starts may well be the SAI pump.

Tap into the FPR line for the boost gauge. You can use a T and run the line through the ECU box into the car under the dash and then mount the gauge--get one that reads vac as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
used my scan tool to read boost via measuring blocks. indicated actual atmospheric pressure at the intake manifold of 1400 mbars at around 3000rpm. now i think thats 1.4 atmospheres...probably all i can ask for from a stock k03, and it appears to be reaching the manifold. i havn't pulled the fuel rail yet(to look for dirty, poor performing injectors), but i'm leaning towards MAF also. good ones aren't cheap.

tomvw thanks for the link. my impression is that i want fuel trims to be as close to zero as possible?
 
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