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2003 AWM 5spd
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I have been in the process of replacing my clutch and in the process of blew both my slave and master cylinder. I have a 1.8t 5spd with 190k miles I acquired about 2 months ago. On trying to reinsert the clutch hardline into the master cylinder, I used a screwdriver with a mallet to coax it in (forcefully). Because of the hammering, the black nipple/gromit thing that locks into the master cylinder (with that title metal clip) is dented and does not hold pressure. I blew it out two times trying to bleed the clutch.

Is there any advice on how to remove this hard line? I am having difficulty worming it past the brake booster, but I really don't want to take the booster out. Everything else is disconnected and ready to pull, I just can't get the master side out of the firewall, I have been trying from the bottom to pull it out.

I did see @jetfixr07 post Clutch probs getting you down?, and was wondering if there were any tips on how to remove the hardline or also whether I should just go to a junk yard and pull a new hard line, or I can fabricate something to recreate the seal that was lost.

anything is appreciated,
thanks
 

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Yes, I would suggest you go pull the line from a Passat at the junkyard.

There is a special tool you need to detach the brake booster connecting rod from the brake pedal. I don't think there is any other way to do it, without that tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I would suggest you go pull the line from a Passat at the junkyard.

There is a special tool you need to detach the brake booster connecting rod from the brake pedal. I don't think there is any other way to do it, without that tool.
I ended up pulling a clutch from an A4, same bayonet, but I cut it in half, and got a pipe connecter for the hard line. I thought about fabricating the slave cylinder fitting on both sides, but the master side is slightly larger in diameter than the slave side.

So the brake booster does have to come off to fit that hard line in?
damn
thanks for the reply!
 

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You don't need to disconnect the brake booster from the pedal to get the line in, there's enough slack if you undo the torx bolts holding the booster to pull it out and maneuver the line.
 

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You also don't need a special tool if you did, it's something like a 18mm jam nut and 15 or 16mm for the threaded shaft to unscrew the rod. I'd suggest not hammering things in the future, some of the clutch parts are NLA. I just got the last plastic elbow for the clutch master in the US a few weeks back (it's discontinued)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah i got it out and ended up fabricating a brake line with 2 ends we pulled from a junkyard. Thanks for the tip!

however, I have now blown the master cylinder again

when my friend are I were bleeding The clutch, everything was fine. The pedal bottoms out. But when I went to start the the car, after the valve has been tightened, the pedal only went about 2 inches within bottoming out. I pushed all the down, and boom master cylinder blown. This is the second time its happened now, I am assumed the first time it was cuz the master was bad (17 years old) but now I’m just at a loss.

could the problem be the clutch fork, was it something I did installing the clutch?

I don’t wanna keep throwing master cylinders at it, I’m at a loss

any advice is appreciated, thank you much for the other replies
 

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If the clutch pedal won't go all the way to the floor, something is binding.
If you've recently done a clutch, it's more than likely something to do with that.

When you replaced the clutch, did you replace the throw-out bearing? Was the throw-out bearing clipped onto the clutch fork? The throw-out bearing has two clips on it that snap into the clutch fork.
Was the clutch fork seated on it's 'pivot ball stud'? There is a clip on the end of the clutch fork that holds it in place on the pivot stud.
Clutch disc installed the right way? As in not backwards.


The clutch master cylinder has two seals in it. Not much can go wrong with the master cylinder as there is only three working pcs to it.

101058
 
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2003 AWM 5spd
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Discussion Starter #8
im taking it out Monday to retrace my steps. I replaced the throwout bearing and made sure it clips in and slides with the clutch fork. I removed the clutch fork pushed it back onto the like the knuckle joint. The metal clip is that brass wire looking thing correct? As far as I can remember I clipped it back in, but obviously something is not right. And I would feel like a moron if I put the clutch disc in backwards, but who knows at this point

Thanks for the tips, ill update once its resolved (fingers crossed)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Late update for any who stumble on this thread, car runs great again. Turns out, I put the clutch disc in the wrong way.
On the plus side, im now well versed in dropping the tranny in b5s
 
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