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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the midst of changing my brakes, having just got the brake caliper retraction tool.

I cannot, however, jar the rotor from the piston. The rotor turnis inside alright, but I cannot jat it loose and remove it. I do not think I can use the tool to retract the piston until I have removed the old pads.

Anyone with similar experience? Any tips on pulling out that rotor? Am I not loosening something?

YOur help is appreciated.
jb
 

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I did my fronts today. I did not get to the rears, to many obligations...

I am not sure where you are in the procedure so do not take my comments as being sarcastic:

1. Released the emergency brake (front wheels blocked!).
2. Unscrewed the caliper mounting bolts (while counter holding the caliper guide pin bolts with an open-end wrench).
3. Crack open the caliper bleed value (it helps to have a rubber hose draining to a container.) This vents the caliper incase the piston needs to move while you are pulling it from the rotor.
4. Draw the caliper straight back.
5. Close the caliper bleed value.

Continue the job.
 

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I do not want to give the wrong impression. Opening the bleed valve will not make the caliper fall right off; it will still take some “persuasion.” Opening the bleed value provides the fluid a vent path, in case the piston needs to recede into the caliper.

1. With the bleed value open, try rocking the top of the caliper toward the car, then toward yourself while you are pulling it back off the rotor. The rocking motion should recess the piston slightly; it will still be snug to remove.

2. If this does not work, take a rubber mallet and lightly tap the caliper in the removal direction. Yesterday while doing my front calipers, I had to open bleed valve, rock the caliper, then gently tap with the rubber mallet, rock the caliper, repeat…to remove the calipers.

3. If the caliper shows no signs of moving, stop and seek on-site help from someone.


Good luck, let us know how it goes
 

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You need to take Dremmel or metal grinder, or as a last resort metal file and grind down approx 6" lenght of the lip that is on the rotor. The pads created a groove on the rotor and the outside has a lip which prevents the caliper and the pads to clear it. So you need to grind the lip to get it out. Then you can slip the caliper off of the rotor.

Releasing the brake fluid will not help you since you still have to push and turn the piston in order to retract it.
 

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Boris is right!

I was brain dead in my responses; I did not account for the need to rotate the caliper piston to retract the piston. Opening the bleed value will not help on the rears (only the fronts), sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Parking brake was not on...If I file the rotor a bit, will that have any repercussions for re-using the rotor? There are no grooves, so I had not planned on replacing them.

anybody else actually manually remove material on the rotor for releasing them?

jb
 

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Well if you have pretty deep groove into the rotor with large lip on the outer edge then you need to replace the rotors. VW OEM rotors are notoriously soft which together with semi-metallic OEM pads guarantee that you have to replace the rotor when replacing the pads. Rear rotors are around $70.-
 

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file? grinding? bleeder valve? parking brake? what are you guys smoking? :p

Remove the two bolts holding the rear caliper to the carrier. You'll need two open end wrenches (13mm and 16mm, IIRC) then you can take the caliper off. The pads should stay on the rotor/caliper carrier assembly. then remove the pads, and then remove the rotor.

No grinding/filing needed because the caliper is not captive to the rotor/pads.

When reassembling, make sure to apply locktite blue to the two bolts holding the caliper in place, or replace them with two new bolts that have locktite pre-applied. Alto make sure that the small springs at the top of the pad align properly with the grooves on the inside of the caliper.

It's also a good idea to clean around the piston and check the dust seals while you have it off to make sure that the piston won't stick. And, coat the backs of the pads with permatex during re-assembly to reduce noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Can somebody clarify where the two bolts the hold the rear caliper on are? What hey look like?

Steps I followed are: (put back together with no changes last night)

removed wheel
removed two allen bolts attaching caliper
pulled out cliper/rotor - could not separate.

Any help on the additional bolts would be most ehlpful

jb
 

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jeffab said:
Can somebody clarify where the two bolts the hold the rear caliper on are? What hey look like?

Steps I followed are: (put back together with no changes last night)

removed wheel
removed two allen bolts attaching caliper
pulled out cliper/rotor - could not separate.

Any help on the additional bolts would be most ehlpful

jb
Actually what you removed was the rotor, caliper, caliper carrier and pads as a complete assembly. Don't remove the two hex bolts, these hold the caliper carrier to the spindle. If you were looking that this assembly from the rear, you will see two regular bolts (16mm I think) above the two hex bolts. Remove these two bolts and the caliper will separate from the carrier.

I'll look for a picture and post it if I can find one.

**EDIT**

This picture shows what I'm referring to, although this is an S4 rear caliper, the mounting is basically the same.



The light colored part is the caliper and the dark part is the caliper carrier.
 

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Jeff, only problem is that you will still not get the caliper off of the rotor if there is deep groove with large lip. Ask me how I know. :wink: By removing the bolts you will get the caliper off of the carrier bracket, but since the pads are in the grove on the rotor, you will not be able to get the rotor over the hub so you will be stuck with the caliper loose and nowhere to go because the brake line will hold it there. Only solution to this situation is to grind the lip on part of the rotor so the pads will clear through the grinded down opening.

VW is using wery soft rotors with semi-metallic pads which IMO is not a good combination as the pads will eat into the rotor long before the pads wear down. This will then create the above situation since the pads hold the caliper to the rotor and you can not retract the piston as you can on front caliper. So only solution is to gring opening in the lip for the pads to clear.
 

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The rear pads are resting on the caliper carrier and will slide out with some gentle force. Even with the worn out rotor that has the deep groove with large lip. Only other thing might be holding the pads to the caliper would be the brake quiet matterial and that shouldn't be a problem to remove. So, even with the badly worn out rotor with grooved lip, the caliper should slide off from the pads and the rest of the brake assembly if both of the caliper bolts are removed. (Just make sure you don't apply the parking brake doing this procedure)
 

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Boris, sorry, but no.

The pads are not held into the rear caliper at all, so the caliper will slide off then you can remove the pads, then the carrier and rotor. I'm taking my rear brakes apart again this weekend for some modding and if you really want me to take pics of the process I will.

A grinder is absolutely not required. :suspicio:
 
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