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Discussion Starter #1
okay so I did a belt job on my Passat 1.8t 2001 and while putting the car back together I noticed the lower radiator hose would not clip or lock into place. I’ve been trying for days and I can’t get to work. I need help. Many times I’ve thought it was on but just popped right off. I’m gonna order a new hose and go from there. When I was taking the radiator off I didn’t notice anything break. The radiator looks fine. Someone help please
 

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Does it have the same connection as the v6? (yeah its the same connection)
if so unseat it and try reseating it. I was having major issues (I tried using a dead blow and a screwdriver to get it to go back and it wouldn't budge) until I just pulled it off completely and then tried it and it went in like butta.
Also remove the metal clip, slide it on, replace metal clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It won’t slide on at all, I’m not sure why. The hose just will not go on the radiator right. I’ve tried all I could think of. I’m just gonna get a new hose and go from there
 

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the hard plastic coupling that slides onto the radiator, correct? the connection on the left side of this photo or the top one on the right?
98220
 

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I know it is silly but I gotta ask, did you line it up right? there are two plastic bits that stick out of the radiator side of the coupling and they need to fit into the grooves on the right and left. I know my first attempt I did not have it sitting lined up.
 

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I know it is silly but I gotta ask, did you line it up right? there are two plastic bits that stick out of the radiator side of the coupling and they need to fit into the grooves on the right and left. I know my first attempt I did not have it sitting lined up.
This, or push harder. Seriously, these take quite a bit of force to seat.

Is there an extra o-ring on the radiator fitting, or stuck inside the lower hose? Did you pull the metal spring up into the unlock position?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Y
I know it is silly but I gotta ask, did you line it up right? there are two plastic bits that stick out of the radiator side of the coupling and they need to fit into the grooves on the right and left. I know my first attempt I did not have it sitting lined up.
your talking about the plastic bits on the bottom of both ends that seat into the rubber cuplings?
 

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The 2 alignment grooves can cause the fitting to not fully seat.
98232

It can be a pain. I thought I had mine fully seated until it blew off on the highway. Not fun.
 

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You can also try a very thin coating of grease to hep it along. I use Teflon lube from the pool supply store.
Vaseline tends to work well too. For me, it's also practically mandatory for getting a new automatic trans filter installed.
 

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i posted this in an old thead of mine:
i'm resurrecting this post as i just went thru this process again and had a much easier time of it the second time around. there's a proper procedure for removing and reattaching the lower radiator hose, but screw that--your chances are good the hose connector and/or radiator will be destroyed out of pure frustration if you try to do it the right way. pb blaster and wriggling is the answer to get the hose off and back on. i have no idea if pb blaster is good for the plastic or rubber cooling system components. the can does claim 'pb restores life to o-rings and rubber seals', but who knows. i'm just going to assume that it's bad for the cooling system and still recommend you roll the dice and use it anyway as the far lesser of 2 evils.

to get the hose off spray pb blaster into the plastic housing and wait for it to work. as others with success have reported: the hose connector is keyed and only comes straight off, but you must still wriggle the hose in all directions to get it off. DON'T IGNORE THIS. with the clip in the up position, wriggle the hose with light pressure then pull hard straight back. keep alternating between wriggling and pulling hard and the hose will pop off eventually. just pulling hard will get you nowhere unless you have massive upper body strength.

getting the lower hose back on is probably about twice as difficult as getting it off. pb blaster is a must on the rubber o-ring in the hose as well as the plastic radiator port connector. with the clip in the down position, alternate between wriggling the hose by hand and levering it with an offset box wrench. reach under the car with your left hand and firmly push and wriggle the hose connector against the radiator while holding the tank with your right hand. next, from the right side in front of the transmission cooler, position an offset box wrench against the power steering pump housing and the vertical standoff on the hose and lever the connector towards the radiator with your foot pressed against the bottom of the tank. after a couple cycles i got 1 clip to engage while wriggling and the other clicked into place with the wrench. again, doing 1 thing without the other got me nowhere...levering a wrench against the hose as hard as i could did nothing without the wriggle.
 

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to get the hose off
Remove the metal clip.
Go from the front with a dead-blow hammer and something to use as an extension (like a screwdriver, or a file that has a flat head/end) and give it a gentle whack.
It takes about 3 seconds.

getting the lower hose back
Remove the metal clip.
Make sure it is seated properly, and push it all the way in.
Replace metal clip.

Once the second part is done, the rest is a few seconds.
The second part takes only a couple of seconds as well. when it is not lined up perfectly, it will not go in.

My old and new hoses:
98281
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE: I’m sorry I’ve been working a lot lately but thankfully I work close to home. But anyways I believe there was something in the grooves of the old plastic hose housing that didn’t allow it to fully seat on. New hose went on no problem HOWEVER now coolant is leaking from the sensor that goes into the plastic housing. I believe the o ring could be back but I have NO clue on the size of the o ring otherwise I’d go grab one. It really sucks not being able to drive. If anyone has any info or anything about the o ring size please let me know. Thank you all for the help 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
 

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According to ETKA, it's 19.6 x 3.6, part number N 903 128 02
I may have assumed it was the same size as the one on the ECTS sensor.
Also given I am not actually near where my o-ring box is, it might have been the next size up...20x3.5
thank you for the proper answer. also, since you have the EKTA, can you confirm the size for the ECTS o-ring?

also, 3-7 dollars on amazon depending on which one you get
 
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