[zombie757]

About a month ago I bought a 1999 Passat and it had 2 problems, the secondary air pump running continuously (which I will save for another thread), and my power locks. At first I believed the problem with the locks to be within the driver side door. There was a trick to getting it to lock. I either had to be inside it and lock using the door button, or lock it with the passenger side key slot or button. Keyfob does not work. I was told the batteries were dead. The key will not lock the door using the driver side key slot.

This was just an annoyance until I had time to really get in and determine the problem. But a week ago I went to start my car and the alarm went off, engine would not start. So I took the key out and tried again. Same deal, then I shut the door and locked myself in then tried the key and the engine started, hasn't happened since. That same night I noticed my dome light not working and my sunroof would not open. I then noticed that the anti theft led on the driver side door was flashing rapidly. I can hear a ticking under my carpet that ticks in unison with the flashes. Sometimes the flashes will go back to normal and if I catch it when it happens I can open my sunroof. I did my research and found that the CCM controls all of these components. So I found a DIY and pulled out the CCM box. Of course the floor was soggy from the drainage issue passats have. Opened it up and found the blue plug to have a bit of corrosion within the terminals, the terminals are numbered and the ones with the most corrosion were #2 and #15. The ticking noise sounds like a bomb and is coming straight from the blue plug. The board appeared to be fine. So my question is this, what is the ticking inside the plug? Am I better off replacing the board or should I start by replacing the blue plug?

Thanks to all that read.

 

[Tomvw]

Although it is possible for a bad connection to make a ticking sound, it is not common and would burn the
contact and stop ticking in a fairly short time. I expect the ticking is the flasher in the CCM.

Do a search on "water ingress" & "CCM"

And have a look at this thread.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/68-b5-garage/357704-dead-2003-v6-2-8l-dohc-passat.html


I think you may still have a problem with your door module, but you should
sort out the water ingress problem first.

 

[scotts13]

BTW, the SAIP running continuously is not a good thing. Many people report drained batteries, and it can't be good for the pump. Pull the relay in the ECU box to stop it until you can diagnose; holding in mind the problem probably IS a bad relay.

 

[zombie757]

At this point I have figured out how to get my air pump to shut off. I might still remove the relay to avoid the annoyance. I want to get my ccm straightened out before I mess with the pump. My next day off ill be clearing all my drains and attempting to dry out my floor and wiring.

 

[zombie757]

And now all but my driver side windows are not working. My CCM is deteriorating with a new issue each week. When I go to purchase a new CCM, are they mostly interchangeable or must I get one for my specific year and model? For instance I am going to a Pick n Pull site tomorrow for some parts for another vehicle, however they have a 2002 Passat on site. Would the CCM work with my 1999? Could I pull one from a Beetle or a Jetta? I am going to buy a new one soon, but I figured while I am there I can attempt to fix my issues temporarily.

 

[Tomvw]

The CCM must be an exact match, but you may not need one. Most CCM problems are not in the
CCM Module, but in the wiring & connectors.

Have a look at post #2.

 

[Steve in Chicago]

At this point I have figured out how to get my air pump to shut off. I might still remove the relay to avoid the annoyance.

The annoyance will remain. After the car has been running a while the ECM runs a test on the SAIP system. If the system is not functioning it throws an emissions trouble code. You'd need to get the SAIP checking coded out of the ECM software to be completely rid of it. Shoot a private message to k0mpresd about your situation. He can do this sort of code modification. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/1...sale-readiness-deletes-antilag-available.html

 

[TheColoradoRed]

I had the same ticking when the CCM in my B6 A4 was engulfed. The noise was coming from inside the box. You likely need a new CCM, I would search eBay or car-part for a matching part number. Be sure to check the connections and wires for any sort of corrosion that would require you to solder in new wire to the connectors before replacing CCM. Also, the root cause of this needs to be solved or you'll keep going through CCMs. There are a few threads on water ingress, which detail what drains to unclog. Namely the two in the battery compartment, IIRC one is under the battery and one under/behind the CCM. Just search. You'll find all the info you could handle.

 

[hu vw]

Even if you get the exact matching part number for the CCM you'll still more than likely need some programming done via VAG COM or other appropriate scan/programming tool to have full functionality. Your car or donor car might/might not have the same features/options.

 

[Tomvw]

You won't get the CCM to work properly if you have corroded wires and connectors.
You need to find where the water got in and fix that, then do the full Water Ingress procedure.
When that is done , if the CCM still isn't working correctly, then consider getting a replacement.
The CCM is more likely to be OK than not.

A VCDS scan would be a good idea.

 

[TheColoradoRed]

^ I agree to check the wires and connectors, definitely. Use VCDS to try and access Module 46 (Central Convenience) for communication.

In general, these issues are usually more related to the wires and connectors than the CCM. But in this case, with the clicking internal to the CCM, it is more likely to be fried. I had the same experience, same clicking, same diagnosis, and ended up having to replace the CCM. I'll try to dig up a video of the clicking..

 

[zombie757]

Just checked my battery and brake booster drains, totally clogged. Cleaned out the area, removed the rubber grommets and hope that solves the ingress problem. Where exactly does the water enter the vehicle after it backs up from those two drains? Need to check my hood release latch for some ingress. Also I'm going to go ahead and ebay a new CCM with Harness, has anybody ever tried extending the harness and mount the CCM under the seat or dash so it never touches a drop of water again? This would eliminate a lot of troubleshooting and would narrow the problem down to the solder joints. Easy fix. Thoughts???

 

[TheColoradoRed]

That's a lot of work, soldering in longer sections to each wire to make them long enough to relocate. I think the less hassle way is to check the drains periodically and clean them out if need be. Sure relocating the CCM is more of a sure fire assurance, but a simple checking of the drains frequently will also do the trick.

Be sure to cut open the loom on the wiring harness to make sure the wires themselves aren't damaged or corroded before putting a new CCM in there.

 

[Tomvw]

I wouldn't buy a CCM or anything else until you know you need to, clicking doesn't mean it's faulty.
The first thing to do is completely unwrap all the harnesses in the foot-well, and into the A-Pillar and
check all splices and connectors. Make sure everything is dry, reconnect and test
If you have corrosion in some of the floor harness splices, you probably have it in others.

A good Manual and VCDS (VAG-COM) cable and registered software are almost a necessity for
working on these cars.

Have a good look at this link.

VW Passat Comfort Control Module harness repair | HeadFUZZ

 

[CheapyB5]

I completely agree with Tomvw on this one. I had all of these issues when I acquired my 2000 ATW 1.8T and mine wouldn't start at all. I had the garage who had it tow it to my house and I paid $700 because they couldn't figure out this same no crank, effed up windows, interior lights and alarm not arming issue. Get yourself some marine grade heat shrink and a good soldering iron and unwrap the terrible connections just before the wiring reaches the CCM. You will likely find a lot of green corrosion. You must strip down these wires until you get good looking copper. Replace any sections of copper that are black or really dark looking. Mine needed some wire replaced and one of the two into one connections was the reason for my no start. Mines been running for around 40,000 miles since the fix. Good luck and sorry for the lengthy post.:driving:

 

[zombie757]

Thank you all for helping me with this issue! This wednesday I will be pulling up the carpet and drying that sucker out. I will check the wires from the CCM to the A Frame. Hopefully I don't need a new CCM and can get away with just the wires. I noticed that I had a little bit of green corrosion within the plug itself, only on a few contacts though, where am I able to purchase a new harness or are these salvageable. I've looked on ebay but I haven't seen them by themselves, they always come with the CCM.

 

[zombie757]

Also does anybody know which color wires control the passenger power windows? I found a guide for some of the wires but it doesn't show the window colors. I am not sure just how accurate this guide is but it may come in handy.

 

[soundguybob]

The windows are controlled directly from the electronics on each window motor. All of the commands (open, close, lock, unlock, etc.) are sent over a data network that's tied to each door module and the CCM, and the local module executes the command.

You will almost certainly find corroded and failed splices in the wiring harness, considering that the CCM connector had corrosion in it. You have to peel off the bundling tape and separate out the wires to find all the splices. Most of the time, all of the splices will be between the CCM and kick panel area, although I've seen a few fall past where the CCM section splits off. Based on your described issues, I'd say there's a 95% chance that you have failed splices.

 

[Tomvw]

Don't worry about wire colours, just repair all faulty connections, and repair or replace CCM if required.
If you still have a problem you may then need to look into the wire colours.

 

[zombie757]

Well I got my chance to repair the wires. That was the problem!!! Everything works now! But now I have a major probllem. I had everything hooked up, tested the engine and everything and was good. Then I replaced the carpet and foot rest and now my engine wont turn over. What happened! I started it like 10 minutes ago and now I have nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but I get nothing. I pulled the carpet and test all my connections and they are all good. HELP!