correction... they are technically wheel locks i guess. the place i got the wheels from was so horrible that i decided not to ever go there again. (it took them about 4 months to get the wheels when they told me up front it would be only 2 weeks. i later found out that they were in such horrible shape financially that they had no credit with their distributors and that is what took them so long ) i can only imagine what would happen if i go back there and i need them to get something for me. i have checked at some other wheel shops and they seem to think that the locks will be impossible to find. anyone have recommendations on another wheel lock ?
Be Careful... The TSW wheel probably uses a 60 degree taper bolt seat, not the "Radius" or "Ball" seat that VW and Audi use. The bolt should stick out from the back of the wheel about 18.5 - 19mm. Be careful what someone tries to sell you. The bolts that you have in those wheels are not a very high quality item, you should contact TSW to find out what is recommended and be sure that the actual engagement to the hub of the car is correct.
So, I know this may seem like a dumb question, but are all the other wheel bolts like that? Normally you'd expect that those four are one per wheel and the other four would be like that single odd one you have. At $30 or so a set it's unlikely they'd fit five sets of lock bolts to a car where one would do.
yes, the wheel does have the 60 degree taper seat... as a stopgap measure i have filled in the missing lugnut with a factory "ball" seat lugnut just so there is something in that hole. i am aware that this could be detrimental to the ride but hope to have this issue resolved very soon. as far as the bolts go, they are all the locking kind because of the tapered seat, and as i said the place where i got them was very shady. i will contact tsw and let you know what i find out.
ok. today has been quite a day. i went to disount tire to get my tires balanced this
morning. i decided that since i would be needing new tires soon that i would rather
go ahead and buy them now and take the credit that they would give me for my
old tires. i decided to trade in my old kumho 711's for the new kumho asx's. the
discount tire i was at only had 2 in stock though, so after installing them, they sent
me to another one just down the road. i pulled in and there was one other car in
the bay. 90 minutes later the technician told me that they were having a problem
getting the driver's side front tire on.
i went into the service bay to see if i could help. i immediately saw that they had cross threaded the
hub extension when trying to install the retaining nut. once this happened, the shoddy design of the tsw
wheel and the fact that the hub extension was right hand thread meant that it began to unscrew itself.
so once the guy was able to get the retaining nut on he was unable to get the cotter pin on because the
nut didn't go far enough 'down' the hub extension. at this point he used a screwdriver and a hammer to
try and "tighten" the hub extension in the wheel so that he could screw the retaining nut on more.
further inspection revealed that the cotter pin holes had been stretched out by this process. not really
a big deal function wise in this case, but i think i am going to have them replace this part anyway. i showed
the guy how to remove the hub extension and we were able to find some pieces of metal which were
preventing the extension from screwing all the way into the wheel. at this point he began to mount the
wheel and i got out of his way so he could work. about 5 minutes later i left. about 20 minutes later as
i was driving down the highway, i felt a big vibration and heard a loud clicking type noise, all coming
from the driver's side front corner. fortunately i was close to a local tire distributor and was able to pull
into there and look at the wheel. i took the retaining nut and bowl off and found that
only ONE of the lugnuts was even screwed in, the other 4 were only still
there because the bowl had retained them. so, now my question is what should my recourse be ?
If that wheel had come off, there's no telling what could have happened.
Could my wheel be damaged ?
also, here is a better picture of the "socketlug" which is what i have , versus the oem lug.
i have found the local distibutor but they tell me i have to order it from a retailer like discount tire.
they sell two sizes, one with a 25 mm shank, and one with a 31 mm shank. pictured is the
25 mm shank lug. with only three turns, is this bolt even able to be torqued ?
radtech, is there another brand you would suggest ?
Rule of thumb is that you should have a minimum of 80% of the thread diameter in engagement. For your car using a 14x1.5 thread you should have 7.5 turns into the hub ( thread dia 14mm, pitch 1.5, 100% engagement would = 9.33 turns (14 ÷ 1.5), 80% would be 7.46 turns)
Using a 6mm longer bolt (31mm shank vs 25) that would give you another 4 turns (6mm ÷ 1.5), that should do the job!
(If you measure the amount of thread that the O.E. bolt sticks out past the back of the original wheel (probably about 18mm) you should be sure that the 60 degree taper bolt has the same amount of extension through the TSW wheel.)
Lug hardware for VW and Audi vehicles can always present a problem when not handled carefully. Also beware when swapping to or from winter tire packages as often they will not both use the same hardware!!
You are lucky to find this problem now before you had a bigger problem on the road. :wink:
I'll second RadTech's recommendation; 3-1/2 threads is unsafe. The extra 6 mm should be adequate since the loads on the screws is relatively low. 80% is sufficient when a bolt is threaded into a nut, because the nut is stronger than the bolt, and that amount of engagement insures that failure will be tensile in the bolt rather than thread stripping of either the nut or bolt which are highly undesirable. In the case of the lug screws, since I am sure the hub is a weaker material than the screw, even longer engagement would be desirable.