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About 60 ft/lbs is what I expected. 90 ft/lbs would be almost certain to break almost any 10 mm bolt.
As stated in my previous post, running it with low tension might have compromised the gasket.
I think there is a good chance it will be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Bolts aren't tourquing. Dont feel as right as yesterday. Only at 60lbs. 4 of them arent even that high.
About 60 ft/lbs is what I expected. 90 ft/lbs would be almost certain to break almost any 10 mm bolt.
As stated in my previous post, running it with low tension might have compromised the gasket.
I think there is a good chance it will be OK.
Shiuld bump the the four that arent at 60lbs, up to 60 lbs? Earlier post suggested that even 90lbs wouldnt be enough. Not from you but others.
 

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Sounds good to me, about 60 ft/lbs is what I expected, 90 ft/lbs would certainly break almost any 10 mm bolt.
The torque on each bolt will vary because of friction, the TTY tension will give accurate clamping force.
Providing the gasket wasn't compromised, and the valves are not bent, everything should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Bolts aren't tourquing. Dont feel as right as yesterday. Only at 60lbs. 4 of them arent even that high.
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Driving good, but still gurgling in my resivoir. I did just find a crack in the reservoir, but I dont think thats the problem. Ill know for sure in a few days. If it isnt fixed, im parking it until I can find another engine, a few months down the road. I really appreciate evwrybodys time. Thanks so much!
 

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It sounds like you have air in the cooling system.
Bleed the system.
Take the cap off the reservoir, disconnect the connector from the bottom, and raise the reservoir as high as it will safely go.
Release the clamp, on the heater hose with bleed hole.
Pull the hose back far enough to open bleed hole, wait till coolant flows out the hole in a constant flow.
Then push the hose back & fit clamp, drop the reservoir back into position, top up and fit cap.

The engine must NOT be run during this procedure.
 

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Driving good, but still gurgling in my resivoir. I did just find a crack in the reservoir, but I dont think thats the problem. Ill know for sure in a few days. If it isnt fixed, im parking it until I can find another engine, a few months down the road. I really appreciate evwrybodys time. Thanks so much!
Well how is it going ?
Did you bleed the cooling system as suggested ?
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Been running great until yesterday. No air in the coolant. No water in the oil or oil in the water. Went to start it yesterday and I have hydrostatic lock in piston #2. Full of coolant. Im done until I can pull the motor and fully inspect. I may end up rebuilding another motor and drop it in, but it going to be months down the road before I will be able to do that. In trying to build a house right now and I just dont have the time.... I'll let you guys know what I find, in the future. Thanks guys...
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Oh! Whats the best way to dry that piston out, without pulling the head? I dont want it to corrode while it sits.
 

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Shove a drinking straw (or long small tube) through the spark plug hole and use a shop-vac to suck out the fluid.
Rotate the engine so that the piston is at the bottom of the stroke so you can get down into the 'corner' of the cylinder to get the most fluid out.
 
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For whatever it's worth, if your going to do a rebuild, I wouldn't sweat over the condition of the engine and letting it sit for a few months. Whatever corrodes or gets rusted will all be machined out during the rebuild anyways.
An assembled engine will suffer far less than an exposed engine will anyways.

Can't do it right now, but later today I'll post a picture of my original 98 GLS V6 motor that I tore apart and left in the open for 8 years. It was pretty crusty when I finally rebuilt it.
I'll post up some before and after pictures.
 
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Oh and if your still worried, after vac-ing out the fluid, spray some kind of rust preventative or WD-40 (or equivalent) down into the cylinder.
 
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I suggest you remove the FP fuse #28 and the spark plugs, then crank it for about 1 minute while holding the accelerator to the floor.
Then add a TBL spoon of engine oil through the plug hole, and crank for a few seconds.

Likely causes of the problem:
1. The head gasket might have been compromised when you drove it with the head bolts loose.
2. The head might be cracked or warped.
3. The block might be cracked or warped.
 
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