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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Just the numbers, no pics.

It looks like your entire pollution control system isn't getting power. But it's hard to tell what's a symptom and what's a cause. With that many codes I'd suspect a relay but that still isn't necessarily a cause.

I'd try clearing the codes and see what pops up again first. It might help you narrow the search. You may have to start tracing wires and checking body grounds. I suspect you'll find a relay that is common to all of these errors which is probably where you would want to start looking. Just spit balling, I've never seen this particular laundry list of codes before.
I know for sure that my catalytic converter has been out for at most a month now and it was never shooting any of these codes before that, so my assumption is that it is because of the catalytic converter.
 

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I know for sure that my catalytic converter has been out for at most a month now and it was never shooting any of these codes before that, so my assumption is that it is because of the catalytic converter.
Maybe. I've never had my cats out. When the O2 sensor comes unplugged you get that no activity code. Hopefully it's all related and once you replace them it completes the circuit. Never hurts to fix what you know is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Maybe. I've never had my cats out. When the O2 sensor comes unplugged you get that no activity code. Hopefully it's all related and once you replace them it completes the circuit. Never hurts to fix what you know is broken.
I hope it is all related, especially the jerking , the only next problem is replacing my thermostat and a possible hose that is leaking which is connected to my coolant.
 

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Yes, also remember that when something is disconnected/unplugged it can cause a short to ground error message. For example I disconnected the wiring to my shift lock solenoid when I was doing something and then I reconnected it afterwards, but this code was still stored for the solenoid: P1761 - 003 - Short to Ground.
 

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1998 Passat GLS Wagon AEB , 2003 Ford Ranger Edge
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I would definitely return that code reader, its not going to communicate with all the modules in the car. Then put the money toward vcds lite and a 3rd party cable. For about $120 youll have a tool used more times than 10mm sockets youve lost. For future reference, I wouldn't do any repairs or servicing till you've at least narrowed down your current problems.

So a clogged cat will cause exhaust back pressure which can alter your shift points, cause misfires (alot of those codes can be triggered by misfires) etc. When the heat of exhaust cant escape out the tailpipe its going to go right back to your engine. First id get VCDS or very least hookup a vacuum gauge to your intake manifold, just disconnect EGR before testing.

As for your water leaks id get to that CCM, dry the carpet, inspect/repair all points of water ingress asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
There is no relay that could cause all of those those codes, it looks like you have something disconnected or a bad fuse.
Check fuse #34 with a meter or test light, a visual check is pointless.
Then clear the codes and re-scan, then post a list of codes (No Pics).
This is what my uncle just told me to do yesterday as well, I have a reader that will check the voltage and see if it is out. The fuse box I will be looking for would be the one in the glove box or the one on the driver side door?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
What is the cable called and is there any specific vcds to get?
I would definitely return that code reader, its not going to communicate with all the modules in the car. Then put the money toward vcds lite and a 3rd party cable. For about $120 youll have a tool used more times than 10mm sockets youve lost. For future reference, I wouldn't do any repairs or servicing till you've at least narrowed down your current problems.

So a clogged cat will cause exhaust back pressure which can alter your shift points, cause misfires (alot of those codes can be triggered by misfires) etc. When the heat of exhaust cant escape out the tailpipe its going to go right back to your engine. First id get VCDS or very least hookup a vacuum gauge to your intake manifold, just disconnect EGR before testing.

As for your water leaks id get to that CCM, dry the carpet, inspect/repair all points of water ingress asap.
I am not familiar with vcds lite or 3rd party cables, is there ones you can recommend for me to get for both so I can return my AncelVD700 reader back to Amazon and when I do that I will just order those.
 

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1998 Passat GLS Wagon AEB , 2003 Ford Ranger Edge
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VCDS is an emulator of Volkswagens diagnostic software. It is a product of Ross Tech.

This is a link to purchase the software: Just read everything and click on the "Fully Registered" link to purchase the full version.

Lots of good information here:

This cable is perfect for anything you will do with VCDS Lite.

Trust me that this will be the best $120 you spend on your VW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
VCDS is an emulator of Volkswagens diagnostic software. It is a product of Ross Tech.

This is a link to purchase the software: Just read everything and click on the "Fully Registered" link to purchase the full version.

Lots of good information here:

This cable is perfect for anything you will do with VCDS Lite.

Trust me that this will be the best $120 you spend on your VW.
Which cable? This will also work on my 2002? I’m assuming (pre-2006) is everything before up until 2006 made vehicles?
 

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Scanner suggestion
For about $10 to $20 get a 409.1 VAG cable from Amazon or eBay, the disc that came with mine had viruses, don’t use the disc.
Download VCDS Lite (FREE) and install in Windows. Ross-Tech: Home
$99 for registration if required for easier operation, the free version will read all codes from all modules.
Download USB-Com Port driver (VCP) and install in Windows. Drivers - FTDI
If you get a cable with a chip that is not FTDI, you will need to download a driver from the chip manufacturers Web site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Scanner suggestion
For about $10 to $20 get a 409.1 VAG cable from Amazon or eBay, the disc that came with mine had viruses, don’t use the disc.
Download VCDS Lite (FREE) and install in Windows. Ross-Tech: Home
$99 for registration if required for easier operation, the free version will read all codes from all modules.
Download USB-Com Port driver (VCP) and install in Windows. Drivers - FTDI
If you get a cable with a chip that is not FTDI, you will need to download a driver from the chip manufacturers Web site.
Any thoughts on a p185700 code?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
New problem has occurred, so my #34 fuse is blown and based on the research I have done, that can be a cause to why it’s jerking and including the codes I have but now it continues to blow when I try starting my car which leases me to a problem that there is a wire that is shorted. More research I found is that it is most likely the o2 heater sensor/wires and the problem I am having is im looking at bank 1 and bank 2 but they all lead to the engine bay and there is nothing after my cats. I’m trying to find a shorted wire or corroded but I can’t access them at all:/ does anyone have any ideas on what to do so I can figure out why it is ,(#34) , blowing every time I start the car so I can see if that is causing the jerking of my car? If that does not fix it then it’s most likely my torque converter, which I have a brand new one waiting just in case that is the problem. But I’m hoping it is just a faulty wire because this has never happened before, especially for all these codes and problems to happen all at once and then finding out I have a blown fuse… any thoughts are appreciated!!
 

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The front O2 sensors are the ones that matter, so start with unplugging the back sensors. The O2 sensor plugs are in front of the firewall. They should be Black plugs for the front, Brown, and Green for the back. The Black plug goes nearly straight down to the O2 Sensor, and the Green and Brown go along the top of the trans to the back sensors.
Here are 3 of the plugs on the front of the firewall, the driver's side front is a bit buried.
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive design Auto part


This is where the sensors are on the pipes (removed from car):
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Long story short I figured out the culprit. My bank 2 sensor 1 connector was basically melted against my intake manifold or the exhaust near the side of it. Got a new one (02 connector upstream) and it runs like a champ but the only problem is that it still has a code of p015400 , no activity, I drove about 100 miles to see if it reboots it and I cleared my codes and it instantly popped back up. :/ I know I have a broken brake vacuum line I need to fix but would that have anything to do with it? Since the job of the 02 is for proper air and gas ratio??
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The front O2 sensors are the ones that matter, so start with unplugging the back sensors. The O2 sensor plugs are in front of the firewall. They should be Black plugs for the front, Brown, and Green for the back. The Black plug goes nearly straight down to the O2 Sensor, and the Green and Brown go along the top of the trans to the back sensors.
Here are 3 of the plugs on the front of the firewall, the driver's side front is a bit buried.
View attachment 107174

This is where the sensors are on the pipes (removed from car):
View attachment 107175
Also this really helps but the only thing weird on my car is that I don’t have any 02s after my cat. Only two on the actual cats on both side ands two in my engine bay, kinda weird for the year of my car lol
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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The ones in the engine bay before the cats are the ones to worry about. The 2nd set of sensors only measures if the 1st set of cats is working well enough. The 2nd set of cats are just to clean up the exhaust even more, just unplug them and see if the fuse still blows.
 
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