Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 20 of 36 Posts

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So today out of nowhere when I was driving home my engine (once I let my foot off the accelerator) and sometimes it did it on its own, my car downshifted hard and the whole car jerked and I mean it felt like it was going to brake super hard. I looked up possible reasons and some sources say it could be a blocked fuel injector or a possible sensor out with the air to fuel ratio. I personally believe it has something to do with my transmission though and possible low fluid. If that is the case can I just top off my trans fluid and add more to it? Or do I have to flush the whole trans again and do that process? I would love to hear everyone鈥檚 ideas because this once really confused me and the harsh jerking scared the shit out of me 馃槓
 

Registered
Joined
114 Posts
1. pull codes
2. post them here

These cars will tell you what's wrong with them or at least give you a hint. If the CEL isn't on you may need to find someone with VCDS to dig deeper. The transmission is designed to remain sealed. I personally wouldn't open up something that was made not to be opened unless I was 100% sure I needed to.
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. pull codes
2. post them here

These cars will tell you what's wrong with them or at least give you a hint. If the CEL isn't on you may need to find someone with VCDS to dig deeper. The transmission is designed to remain sealed. I personally wouldn't open up something that was made not to be opened unless I was 100% sure I needed to.
I did not plan on opening it, I planned on using a u hose and pumping more atf into it through the fill plug on the side. I have a new code reader coming in and it should be here by Tuesday since Amazon does not do same day delivery. Smh. Also, what is the CEL? So I know what I鈥檓 looking for in the codes. @furcifernova
 

Registered
Joined
114 Posts
I did not plan on opening it, I planned on using a u hose and pumping more atf into it through the fill plug on the side. I have a new code reader coming in and it should be here by Tuesday since Amazon does not do same day delivery. Smh. Also, what is the CEL? So I know what I鈥檓 looking for in the codes. @furcifernova
Which would require you to open it. Like I say, it's a sealed unit by design. Once you break that seal you really want to perform a full service then seal it up again. I'm just saying it can be hit or miss with topping them off like you would a traditional transmission.

Check Engine Light. Yellow light on the dash in the shape of an engine, comes on when you start the car and hopefully goes off when it's running.

I have no idea, there are 10,000 or 15,000 codes. Since most aren't related to the transmission or engine they will probably not be germane to your problem but there's still quite a few.
 

Moderator/Administrator
Joined
26,297 Posts
I did not plan on opening it, I planned on using a u hose and pumping more atf into it through the fill plug on the side. I have a new code reader coming in and it should be here by Tuesday since Amazon does not do same day delivery. Smh. Also, what is the CEL? So I know what I鈥檓 looking for in the codes. @furcifernova
There is no fill hole on the side of the 5HP transmission unless you are talking about the front diff fill hole. That takes 75-80/90 gear oil. The only way to add fluid to this trans is through the drain hole on the bottom of the pan. It must be done while running or at least a quart or two will drain out as soon as you open the plug.
 

Registered
Joined
109 Posts
I did not plan on opening it, I planned on using a u hose and pumping more atf into it through the fill plug on the side. I have a new code reader coming in and it should be here by Tuesday since Amazon does not do same day delivery. Smh. Also, what is the CEL? So I know what I鈥檓 looking for in the codes. @furcifernova
Year, mileage and engine please?
Did you look for any leaks? I have replaced AT cooling lines going to the radiator oil cooler on several Passats due to rusted out and leaking lines,
Any water on the front floors especially the right side?
Any warning lights on like the ABS or Engine Check Light?
I like your plan of at least checking the level which means you need to pump more of the proper ATF into the transmission when it is level. Changing the filter and adding fluid back is a good idea too.
Will your code reader tell you the temperature of the transmission, which is necessary when adding fluid to the correct level? A infra-red temperature can help determine the temperature too.
I do highly recommend the ross-tech VCDS for VWs and Audis. You can also see how the transmission is performing with shifts and the Torque Converter lockup as the vehicle is being driven.

I believe that you can easily reset the transmission too. You can try this now before you receive your code reader.
This is how I reset these transmissions:
Ignition ON but engine off, press the accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor and hold for 10 seconds. Slowly allow the pedal to return to its resting position. Start engine and test drive.
 

Registered
Joined
5,807 Posts
...Which would require you to open it. Like I say, it's a sealed unit by design. Once you break that seal you really want to perform a full service then seal it up again. I'm just saying it can be hit or miss with topping them off like you would a traditional transmission.
Amazing that car manufacturers got away with this "sealed unit" nonsense. It's no more or less sealed than any other automatic transmission made in the last 80 years.

The only way to add fluid to this trans is through the drain hole on the bottom of the pan.
I know that you meant the check/fill port at the back of the pan!
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Year, mileage and engine please?
Did you look for any leaks? I have replaced AT cooling lines going to the radiator oil cooler on several Passats due to rusted out and leaking lines,
Any water on the front floors especially the right side?
Any warning lights on like the ABS or Engine Check Light?
I like your plan of at least checking the level which means you need to pump more of the proper ATF into the transmission when it is level. Changing the filter and adding fluid back is a good idea too.
Will your code reader tell you the temperature of the transmission, which is necessary when adding fluid to the correct level? A infra-red temperature can help determine the temperature too.
I do highly recommend the ross-tech VCDS for VWs and Audis. You can also see how the transmission is performing with shifts and the Torque Converter lockup as the vehicle is being driven.

I believe that you can easily reset the transmission too. You can try this now before you receive your code reader.
This is how I reset these transmissions:
Ignition ON but engine off, press the accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor and hold for 10 seconds. Slowly allow the pedal to return to its resting position. Start engine and test drive.
2002 2.8l v6 30v (139,251) so I did trans and it seems fine but there also is a hissing noise like a leak sound coming from underneath the car itself when I was doing the trans, I was using an ir reader to make sure it was between 95鈥117鈥 after I was done the hissing was still there and it seemed like there was water dripping onto the ground. I can send pics if you would like. I have also had problems constantly, maybe every two days refilling the reservoir of my coolant( don鈥檛 know if that is causing the hissing sound, possible leak, if so I can鈥檛 find it but there was dripping when I was underneath and my engine started to smoke more than usual) After filling the trans(while engine was running) I went through the gears and every time I put it into drive the car would jerk forward as well. Smfh
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Year, mileage and engine please?
Did you look for any leaks? I have replaced AT cooling lines going to the radiator oil cooler on several Passats due to rusted out and leaking lines,
Any water on the front floors especially the right side?
Any warning lights on like the ABS or Engine Check Light?
I like your plan of at least checking the level which means you need to pump more of the proper ATF into the transmission when it is level. Changing the filter and adding fluid back is a good idea too.
Will your code reader tell you the temperature of the transmission, which is necessary when adding fluid to the correct level? A infra-red temperature can help determine the temperature too.
I do highly recommend the ross-tech VCDS for VWs and Audis. You can also see how the transmission is performing with shifts and the Torque Converter lockup as the vehicle is being driven.

I believe that you can easily reset the transmission too. You can try this now before you receive your code reader.
This is how I reset these transmissions:
Ignition ON but engine off, press the accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor and hold for 10 seconds. Slowly allow the pedal to return to its resting position. Start engine and test drive.
For water on the floors I have had problems with both driver and passenger but not to bad until one day it rained a lot and it was like a big puddle on the driver side , I was at a weird angled slope and the puddle was near the accelerator. Don鈥檛 know if that helps
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Year, mileage and engine please?
Did you look for any leaks? I have replaced AT cooling lines going to the radiator oil cooler on several Passats due to rusted out and leaking lines,
Any water on the front floors especially the right side?
Any warning lights on like the ABS or Engine Check Light?
I like your plan of at least checking the level which means you need to pump more of the proper ATF into the transmission when it is level. Changing the filter and adding fluid back is a good idea too.
Will your code reader tell you the temperature of the transmission, which is necessary when adding fluid to the correct level? A infra-red temperature can help determine the temperature too.
I do highly recommend the ross-tech VCDS for VWs and Audis. You can also see how the transmission is performing with shifts and the Torque Converter lockup as the vehicle is being driven.

I believe that you can easily reset the transmission too. You can try this now before you receive your code reader.
This is how I reset these transmissions:
Ignition ON but engine off, press the accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor and hold for 10 seconds. Slowly allow the pedal to return to its resting position. Start engine and test drive.
I have not wanted to drive it thought hence the reason I made this thread was because the other day out of nowhere my car, when I let my foot off the accelerator while going only between the miles of 20-40, and sometimes on its own while the car was slowing down would give my car a really bad jerk like it wanted to brake or stop real fast.
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Amazing that car manufacturers got away with this "sealed unit" nonsense. It's no more or less sealed than any other automatic transmission made in the last 80 years.



I know that you meant the check/fill port at the back of the pan!
I kind of figured lol I know what hole and it is not on the side but at the moment I forgot what it was called!
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Year, mileage and engine please?
Did you look for any leaks? I have replaced AT cooling lines going to the radiator oil cooler on several Passats due to rusted out and leaking lines,
Any water on the front floors especially the right side?
Any warning lights on like the ABS or Engine Check Light?
I like your plan of at least checking the level which means you need to pump more of the proper ATF into the transmission when it is level. Changing the filter and adding fluid back is a good idea too.
Will your code reader tell you the temperature of the transmission, which is necessary when adding fluid to the correct level? A infra-red temperature can help determine the temperature too.
I do highly recommend the ross-tech VCDS for VWs and Audis. You can also see how the transmission is performing with shifts and the Torque Converter lockup as the vehicle is being driven.

I believe that you can easily reset the transmission too. You can try this now before you receive your code reader.
This is how I reset these transmissions:
Ignition ON but engine off, press the accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor and hold for 10 seconds. Slowly allow the pedal to return to its resting position. Start engine and test drive.
Forgot to mention that the abs does tend to come on a lot and sometimes when I fill it it has stopped but even when it is filled it has come on before and the code reader I got is the Ancel VD700 so I don鈥檛 know for sure exactly what it reads with the transmission but it said it reads codes and does stuff for the transmission
 

Moderator/Administrator
Joined
26,297 Posts
Amazing that car manufacturers got away with this "sealed unit" nonsense. It's no more or less sealed than any other automatic transmission made in the last 80 years.



I know that you meant the check/fill port at the back of the pan!
Tomato, tomato ;)
 

Registered
Joined
29,152 Posts
How did you do it? Any advice for those of us that may have to do it?
You buy them from the south. I had 2 good sets from 2001 V6 B5s that went with the parts when I sold everything. Not a spot of rust on them. Overall, they are not hard to change, but getting then back into the radiator is the hardest part. For the full change on a V6, you have to lower the back of the subframe to get them over the top. I have not messed with them on a 1.8T recently, so I don't know the routing.
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
1. pull codes
2. post them here

These cars will tell you what's wrong with them or at least give you a hint. If the CEL isn't on you may need to find someone with VCDS to dig deeper. The transmission is designed to remain sealed. I personally wouldn't open up something that was made not to be opened unless I was 100% sure I needed to.
Here are the codes and man these are all new compared to last time I checked 鈥
Gadget Communication Device Line Output device Gas
Output device Telephony Communication Device Portable communications device Mobile device
Gadget Output device Font Audio equipment Display device

Output device Communication Device Gadget Audio equipment Line

Output device Gadget Communication Device Telephony Portable communications device

Gadget Output device Display device Multimedia Gas

Output device Communication Device Gadget Audio equipment Mobile device

Output device Gadget Communication Device Audio equipment Line

Gadget Output device Line Font Audio equipment

Gadget Audio equipment Gas Display device Entertainment
 

Registered
Joined
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
1. pull codes
2. post them here

These cars will tell you what's wrong with them or at least give you a hint. If the CEL isn't on you may need to find someone with VCDS to dig deeper. The transmission is designed to remain sealed. I personally wouldn't open up something that was made not to be opened unless I was 100% sure I needed to.
Output device Communication Device Telephony Gadget Portable communications device

Communication Device Output device Gadget Telephony Audio equipment

Output device Communication Device Gadget Portable communications device Line

Gadget Communication Device Output device Line Audio equipment

Gadget Output device Communication Device Line Audio equipment

Output device Communication Device Gadget Audio equipment Line

Communication Device Gadget Line Output device Audio equipment

Output device Communication Device Gadget Audio equipment Font

Output device Communication Device Gadget Line Audio equipment


I know for one of the codes (catalyst) that my catalytic converter has gone out and I鈥檓 waiting for the new ones to come in, but I don鈥檛 know if that has any correlation to the other ones smh
 

Registered
Joined
114 Posts
What would you mean 鈥渁s text鈥 and what does the short circuit to ground codes typically mean? That is what is confusing me when I looked at them
Just the numbers, no pics.

It looks like your entire pollution control system isn't getting power. But it's hard to tell what's a symptom and what's a cause. With that many codes I'd suspect a relay but that still isn't necessarily a cause.

I'd try clearing the codes and see what pops up again first. It might help you narrow the search. You may have to start tracing wires and checking body grounds. I suspect you'll find a relay that is common to all of these errors which is probably where you would want to start looking. Just spit balling, I've never seen this particular laundry list of codes before.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top