Well, after thinking for a few days I've started to think that if I can't get any warranty on the K04 and I have to buy a new turbo that I may bite the bullet, go big and buy a GTRS eliminator (ATP kit). I know a guy who ordered one for his shop and has been sitting on it for a while. He offered it to me for $2000. I may see if he wants to negotiate a little... Aside from the lag issues is there anything I should know about these kits. The only negative I've heard is that some people have had problems with the turbine castings cracking. Other than that I figure that with it being water cooled and having a ball bearing journal that it's pretty bulletproof as I would probably destroy my rods before the turbo goes. I just don't want a repeat performance of my K04 blowing up again.
GTRS eliminator?
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when did you blow your KO4 up recently? just curious
sorry to hear...
sorry to hear...
Friday night, I took off from a light and when the boost hit I was all of a sudden driving a dentist drill. It looks like one of the turbine fins lost a little chunk off the tip, it imbalanced the shaft which ate the bearing and finally a big chunk came off and it was game over.
thats what i was thinking as well, price is a little high. Unless thats in CAD which sounds a little better but still if hes sitting on it and trying to sell it $1200 USD or less would be a better deal
Yes it's in Canadian dollars and it has the 'r' option which is another $100 US, bringing the total to 1550. Assuming that I could ship for $50 (total $1600) and convince them to class it as a gift (no duty) I would be looking at about $1920 Can. Looks Like I have some negotiating room 
thanks for the link. I'll keep you guys posted as to what goes on with Clay and CTS with regards to a warranty claim (not holding my breath though).
thanks for the link. I'll keep you guys posted as to what goes on with Clay and CTS with regards to a warranty claim (not holding my breath though).Ive heard alot of bad things about the elims kit. Just order a gt28r and Ill sell you a new set of 440cc injectors and if you have a fmic already then you will just need the turbo ,my injectors and have a file wrote for it. I can get you a deal on the file from Chris Tapp at Eurodyne and it will be wrote for a MAF-less setup, so you wont have to spend money on a bigger MAF. I think thats the cheaper way to go and you will love that turbo better then the Elims turbo. But the turbo for like 900-1000 bucks I think and buy your ATP manifold for somewhere around 250 and my injectors and you will have a better setup and if shouldnt cost more then maybe 1600-1800 bucks. Im just saying I really think u should stay away from the elims turbo thing.
What have the problems been with them? The reason that I'm leaning towards the eliminator style is that I just spent a little over $1000 Canadian getting a 034 motorsports exhaust manifold, techtonics high flow cat and the rest of my downpipe installed a little less then a month ago. I can't really justify spending another $1000 on the exhaust plus the $1200+ for the turbo by the time it gets here (the exchange rate is killer). As well, wouldn't I also need to spend the $200 on a larger TIP and another $50 to re-arrange the coolant lines and such? (total around $2500) The reason that I'm considering the elim kit is that if I can get it for $1800 Canadian (about $1400 US) I can bolt it straight on and go. However, what have the problems been with the elim kits other than the cracking issues.
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Why wouldn't the K04 have warranty if it just self-destructed like that?
What's involved in the file-writing, Jayson? This is the idea that I had, but I was thinking more along the lines of an older T25/T28...
What's involved in the file-writing, Jayson? This is the idea that I had, but I was thinking more along the lines of an older T25/T28...
http://www.eurodyne.ca/TappAuto/index.html see if they can get you a better price on the elim
Because as far as most German companies are concerned the flawless engineering of their product is never the problem, the problem is you. I think that the peerless caliber of VW customer care and warranty claims process are ample evidence of that. Oh yeah, and let's not forget all the class action lawsuits.
ya, call Marc there at Eurodyne. He can set u up with the MAFless file and get u a good deal on the turbo setup
As it stands for now I think I can get away with the stock MAF. Since I'm still on the stock AEB injectors I don't want to push it much past 15psi. I figure that upping the fuel pressure to 5bar and running a 30% water 70% methanol mix will keep my A/F ratios in the 12:1 area. However, anyone know what kind of psi you need to be running before you max out the stock MAF?
You can go standalone, but that is expensive. Our AEB motors don't have a manifold pressure sensor, strangely enough. If you had one, you can go with a speed density setup which has tables for fuel and spark which are functions of engine speed (RPM) and engine load (psi/kpa MAP). Once that is tuned it is pretty good, but it needs to be retuned if you make changes. The mass air setups can take more modifications before they need to be tweaked, all they are concerned with is the amount of air going into the engine and the size of the injectors. But you can max out the sensor and it is a restriction upstream of the turbo.
I don't think the PSI matters, rather total airflow. It may even depend on the day -- one that is nice and cool can make a difference. If you've logged with your VAG-COM on your motor, can you log voltage in addition to airflow? If you do, it should fit on about a cubic function (voltage vs. airflow, the MAF transfer function) and you should be able to extrapolate to about 5 volts where the sensor will max out. The problem with putting a bigger MAF on is that it is not as accurate down low which can cause idle problems.
Injectors aren't all that expensive -- the really expensive bit is the computer tuning on the fuel side. You're right, though, the problem is that all the "not too expensive" bits add up to a significant total.
Any word on your k04 warranty?
I don't think the PSI matters, rather total airflow. It may even depend on the day -- one that is nice and cool can make a difference. If you've logged with your VAG-COM on your motor, can you log voltage in addition to airflow? If you do, it should fit on about a cubic function (voltage vs. airflow, the MAF transfer function) and you should be able to extrapolate to about 5 volts where the sensor will max out. The problem with putting a bigger MAF on is that it is not as accurate down low which can cause idle problems.
Injectors aren't all that expensive -- the really expensive bit is the computer tuning on the fuel side. You're right, though, the problem is that all the "not too expensive" bits add up to a significant total.
Any word on your k04 warranty?
Yeah, the warranty inspection would likely conclude you just overboosted it, which you probably sort of did, and it would be a stalemate. They usually come back with two main culprits, overboost and insufficient oil flow, both of which they point back to the operator. The joke is there is no standard boost level for the K04-15 anyway since it doesn't match any OEM application as a reference.
While I'm not holding my breath on the K04 warranty. Clay said that the majority of turbos sent in get replaced. The problem is that it's going to be 4-8 weeks before I get any word on it. I figure that if it gets replaced I may sell it off to offset the cost of the GTRS. On the GTRS thing though, I've been doing more driving with the boost system limited to 2-3 psi to simulate the lag and I think that it'll go well with my tip. Between the higher stall speed and the fact that the tranny kicks down to about 3000+ RPM when I hit the throttle at anything over 15mph it shouldn't be hard to keep the thing in it's powerband. I figure if I keep it around 9-10 psi under normal cruising it should be pretty easy on the tranny, especially since the torque isn't coming on as early as the K04. Then if I want to boot around then I can select high boost and keep it in tip to row the gears instead.
How will you switch between low and high boost settings? I know some people who have run a manual boost knob back into the drivers compartment and give the knob a tweak as they are running along. I'd think that it would be better to do this electronically, though. Do you have a multiple mode chip? Just curious...
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He would be getting new programming for the new turbo anyways, but you can use electronic boost controllers to switch between boost, as well as tweaking other things, I can't remember if he has one or not though.
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