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I definitely agree with using the threadlocker as much as possible, but like someone else said the GREEN is supposed to be for bolts that are already in place and tightened, its designed to seep in. The BLUE is probably more applicable for brakes. Although any threadlocker at all is probably good...

I did my brakes on my b5.5 just this past week actually and used the BLUE on the caliper bolts, and also on the front carrier bolts. I had read this thread beforehand and became highly paranoid and made sure to use it on everything.

Thanks for the tip... and the paranoia! Also, I practically snapped my arms off cracking the front carrier bolts. Damn those things were on tight... looked like a ton of green loctite. I used less on the reinstall.
 

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I use a thread locker as often as practical. We use it almost religiously were I work.
Green Loctite - product 290, is a HIGH strength wicking loctite and was developed to be used on pre-tightened/torqued assemblies. It is a high strength locker. And because it is applied after torquing there is no question about a dry or lubricated assembly concerning torque specs. If you can get to the threads after assembly this is a great product!

Blue Loctite - product 242 or 243(thicker consistency) is a MEDIUM strength product and for heat reasons is probably not recomended for brake applications, though as someone mentioned some locker is better than none.

Red Loctite - product 262 or 272(high temp) is a HIGH strength product and probably best for brakes. In fact many brake and suspension assemblies I've worked on have had red Loctite applied either by the OEM or a repair shop.

As for dis-assembly, heat is your friend. All Loctite products have a temperature at which they break down making dis-assembly much easier. If possible without damaging surrounding components heat it with a mapp gas torch for 30 - 60 seconds and you'll be rewarded.

A caution about torquing. Loctite is a lubricant and if you don't compensate you may over torque by as much as 10% of spec.

Believe me, I live and breath this crap.
 

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Sorry, this thread is bothering me a bit. Blue Loctite is the more appropriate loctite to use. The green stuff is thin and is supposed to wick it's way into bolts that are already in place.
 

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semi-off-topic, but related...

Has anyone used the new Loctite tape?
My Granger rep keeps trying to get me to buy it but the stuff is pricey and the liquid has always worked fine for me.

249_QuickTape_167897_web_171H_171W.jpg
 

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I haven't, but a mechanic at my work has. He says it's nice because it isn't messy, but loctite isn't all that messy anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I haven't visited this thread for a bit, but I've a question for those who posted and are self-professed loctite gurus.

If green is self-wicking, why is it pre-installed on replacement bolts for control arms, for example...? When I originally posted this, I had also noticed that the original factory brake caliper bracket bolts had it on them (as I noted in my original post...).
 

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I'm no loctite expert, but when I needed green loctite for a throw out bearing sleave, it was really hard to find. Green works just fine, but blue can be purchased at walmart.

I don't know why green would come preinstalled.
 

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lowered cars (from my experience, granted most not with VW's) lo0o0o0o0ve to shake these types of bolts loose, no matter how tight you wrenchem! gotta use loc-tite of some color/type but STILL checkem! used to get severe wheel wobble with my '90 volvo 240DL to an unsafe extent.

BTW: @jaythesnork: hey man thanks for all your writeups/work on here! im not sure exactly which ones i used that were you but you were basically all over the place makin my ATW happy
 

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Blue loctite is slightly better due to the fact that it is made to be removable. The green is for bearings and non threaded surface locators. just sayin....LOL
 

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Blue is good if you want to remove the part ever again. I love to tighten things up good but breaking off bolts that are over torqued is no good either. I didn't use any loctite on my rear brakes and last time I checked they were as tight as necessary. I always use anti sieze though and the extra torque from the lube might be my reason for never having an issue. This has happened on my old jetta though so I know the feeling.
 

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This is interesting. I wonder if the problems people have been having are on the same side of the car, as bolts are reverse on one side. The reason I say that is because the brakes have lots of vibrations, so much so that the squeal noise is actually frequency of brake pad vibrations.

I am new to VW but a mechanic for Caterpillar.
I always used anti seize in my old Chevy.

As for the proper torque that those guys are fighting about, the only thing I can add is just make sure your torque wrench is calibrated once and a while. Snap-on has a rig in the truck that can check it.
 

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I've replaced thousands of bolts on cars and never used loctite. The only bolts I've ever had come loose were the ones I didn't tighten. Using bolts with clean threads going into a female piece in good condition is way more important than the loctite. Chasing the threads is good idea too. I did use red on my back slider door handle going onto my deck though.
 

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Jay, I have to thank you for this again. Some [email protected] did my rear brakes a while ago, and same [email protected] has been mildly entertained recently by that "clunking" noise every time he stepped on the brakes. With a 1-day thaw in outdoor temperatures today, I took the time at lunch to peek at the caliper bracket bolts... one was missing and the other was only finger-tight. [email protected] Hope it is better now, and lasts until I sell the car or part it out -- hopefully soon!
 

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I'm a big fan of the blue 242. Between that and JB weld, I can pretty much fix anything. Heck I might even try drinking the stuff. Why not I drink worcestershire sauce and Pico Pica!?
Mark S.
2003 Passat V6 wagon 4-motion
 

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This is news to me. I used to work in fleet maint for two decades, and never, ever used loctite on caliper bolts/sliders...and never ever had a failure or caliper bolt back out. This was on generally domestic vehicles, nevertheless this is something new for me. Will keep it in mind. Thanks!
 
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