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Discussion Starter #1
I was changing my front brakes and the sensor connection on the new pads are round instead of the housing of the ones on my car, recatngle oval shape...
So they dont fit, and I had it off for a test on the brakes and I got the Check brake pads with the round orange with lines symbol showing up.

so I decided to cut the ones from the old pads and solder them to the new pads and then plug it in. I did this , but I didnt know how to check which wire is plus+ or minus-, so I did do the soldering and install and the light and warning is still on....

My thoughts...

Maybe after the initial install of the pads WITHOUT the wires caused the warning, and then I had to clear it for it to not give a warning after I did the sensors....???
or

The wires have polarity and need to be connected with +,-???

how do I know from +- on the pads???
 
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Bad idea you dont wanna mess with your a.b.s system bro, you would have been better of sending those pads back for the correct ones. As for polarity i can answer that one.
 

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I just did away with the sensors. The warning light activates when the connection is broken, so...

I took the rectangular plugs off the old pads, cut the wires short, stripped them and twisted them together, taped them up, and plugged them into the sensor harness. Ghetto fix? Maybe, but voila--no brake pad light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
this is has nothing to do with ABS 20vvillian(as far as I know)...this is for pad wear sensors

JDigga...
that is same as mine except that I have to plug and unplug.

did you notice having to switch the wires at some point to get the warning to go away?
 

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AnthroSSAT: I'm sorry, I can't quite follow what you're asking...

I never bothered to try to wire up the rectangular plugs to the new pads. I can't imagine polarity would make a difference, since the circuit will be completed in either direction (it's not like the brake pad itself has polarity).

When I finished my install initially, neither of my front pads were wired up. I just had the old connectors plugged in with the two wires dangling off of them. As soon as I started the car, the orange brake pad indicator lit up.

So I put the car back up and for each connector, I just twisted both of the wires on the connector together, basically bypassing the circuit to the brake pad.

If you've soldered up the old connectors to the new pads and you're still getting the warning light, my only guess is that one or both of the connectors isn't plugged in all the way.

Incidentally, have your ABS or ASR lights come on at all? Both of those came on intermittently before my "ghetto fix."
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry if my explanation is unclear... here is another try:

My brake pads I removed were still meaty enough that the sensors didn't activate, But I changed them since it had 69K miles on the original set, and it was getting close anyway.

I disconnected the sensor connection from the worn out pads, then I removed them from the calipper. After changing the rotors and putting brake quiet on the back of the pads, I noticed I couldnt connect the sensors new round housing with the existing oval one on the car...They were different. So I cut the housing from the old pads and the new pads to swap them. I solderd them and connect them. I agree that they dont have polarity, but something is causing it to BEEP... CHECK BRAKE PADS warning come on....what could it be?

I dont get the ABS warning or anything...although...(hehe)
Before I did anything to my pads, I had my VAG com hooked up to the car to check the 16795 fault code I posted about on another thread(different problem). I looked for the ABS on the VAG, and it came up with the usual STOP..abs etc. I had done that before months ago, and it had not caused anything.

any other suggestions would be great. I dont want to have to cut the wires on the car to connect them to get rid of the warning, but it might be a last resort. I want to figure out why this isnt doing it. except like you mentioned that they might not be sitting properly...maybe that simple...I will look

how do you deactivate them?


also....I used brake Quiet....on the back of the new pads, and they are sqeeeling to a stop....is that cause they are new or is it because I put too much??

man....yeah I am saving a good deal of money by getting the parts and a good deal and doing it, but so far it has taken me much more time than I thought.

My rear pads were a pain for the calipper to push down, but other then that they were easier to do....if you can help out easier over the phone, PM me to exchange #s
 

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Okay, that's cool--you did what I wanted to do but I was too lazy. :D

It sounds like they should be all good. There are only 6 connections--4 wires and 2 plugs. Logic would dictate that 1 of those has to be bad to bring on the warning light.

There's a way to deactivate the wear indicator sensor (stolen from another thread):

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Go to the instrument module (17)

Then recode the module (write down original code)

Example: code 02242
02 Seat belt warning active
2 Market version, USA
4 4-cylinder
2 Gasoline engine

Code Table:

First 2 digits

01 = Brake pad wear indicator, active
02 = Seat belt warning, active
04 = Washer fluid warning, active
16 = Navigation system

(add all options together for value = 07 = brake, seatbelt, washer warnings on)

3rd digit:
Market version
2 = USA
3 = Canada

4th digit:
# of cylinders
4 = 4cylinder
5 = 5cylinder
6 = 6cylinder

5th digit:
Engine versions
2 = Gasoline engines
0 = Diesel engines

According to the bentley cd , this only works on 2000+ versions
(I can't guarantee this will work for everyone, sometimes vagcoms have problems recoding some modules)
-------------------------------------------

I don't know how any of that works but you can try it since you've got the VAG.
 

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AnthroSSAT: :poke:

What kind of pads did you go with? i dont want to end up with the same problems with the harness not fitting. Thanks :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hehe..
I went with the Pagids as I had in the rear. The rear worked out without a hitch.

they OEm for VW Audi..
I would have taken the pads back for an exchange, but I bought them months ago thinking the front would wear out soon (69k and still more to go).


well if I could get them to work with the swap of the connectors, then cool. If not I am not sure if my VAG Demo can do it?? I dont have the software license code
so it is limited on what it can do.
 

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just close the ciruit on the older brake pad senor plug wires and plug it to the sensor connector. Of course, you should remove the sensor wire & plug from the new pad.

Or you can splice your new pad sensor wire and place the old sensor plug from your old pads.

The circuit has to be closed to stop brake warning light.
 

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I think these sensor wires are teflon coated and you should either solder it or burn off the end of the wire before you tie together.

Also, check if the wires aren't cut from inside. If you put enough force on the wire when pulling the rubber wire cover, you may stretch the wires too far for them to come apart.

I'm not sure if the warning light supposed to be cleared or it goes away by itself when new pads are installed, though. Have you tried removing all codes with vag?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
good points....that is why I soldered them, and I dont see any faults on the VAG. im not sure which section to look under(besides, its a DEMO copy).

I think it might be a loose connection on one side or?????

wires are good from inside.
 

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AnthroSSAT said:
i did the splice of my new pads wires with the old pads connector.

Im still getting the warning...I will have to check it again to make sure they are connected ok....any other thoughts??
Check again... the circuit must not have been completed. Had to do a re-do on a friends A4 for the same reason.
 

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Basically, the circuit must be one continuous loop from one pin of the ABS connector, via the sensor wires, and back to the other pin of the ABS connector. In another word (as others have said), the circuit must be closed or all of the pieces of wires must be wired in series.

Passat2001.5 and I just recently upgraded to Porsche calipers. We did away with the sensors by cutting the wires on the brake pad side and solder the loose ends together. Works fine. You just got to check your brake pads manually (which I do anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
AHHHH.....you guys are right...I checked the right sensor connection and it wasn't completely clicked in. Now all is well!!!


very cool!

Brakes still sqeeck a bit, even after a good coat of Brake quiet...but maybe it will go away after some wear..?

thanks all!
 
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