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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I've read what feels like a billion threads on issues like this, and have it pretty much broken down as either an ignition switch going out or the alternator. OR something completly ridiculous!!

I have a 98 Passat 1.8T with 112k miles. When I get into my car and turn the key all the way WITHOUT starting the engine, CELs light up and flicker, starting out bright, and then going dim, some of them going out completly. If I leave the key in that position for a few seconds later, I hear a beeping noise, much like when you're hooked up to Vag Com and ur opening the ABS.

Then I take my key out, put it back in, turn all the way WITHOUT starting it and the CELs would be bright/normal and it'd run through it's normal stuff checking of the CELs (each one turning off one by one). Then I'd go to start it, it'd start fine, and a few minutes later the engine would completly shut off on it's own, the CEL's would be flickering dimly again, and it'd start beeping. I just had the battery replaced, and I'm not sure about the alternator anymore because NOW I can't even start my car and get all those CEL's to be bright and normal again when you turn the key, so I think that the ignition switch is malfunctioning or not registering or something. I let the ECU and the throttle body and all that junk get reacquainted to everything when I put the new battery in, and it's not the first time I've replaced one. I've also checked all my fuses!! And I don't have a VoltMeter for the alternator and now I can't drive my car lol. :mad:

Speaking of the alternator, I haven't driven the car in about a month, but I figure if it was the alternator it wouldn't be able to keep the engine running when I pull to a complete stop at a traffic light, because I was out driving it a few days ago when I COULD start it lol. And of course it was fine driving on the freeways because the alternator's spinning fast SO...I dont know anymore, I'm just annoyed!!! ARGH!! And I'm trying to get my new cali plates and get registration/emissions, and I can't do any of that until my car's working fine damnit!! Anyway, I hope that's just about all the info you need to be able to help me out! Thanx in advance!!!! :banghead:

-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It's me again! I'm going to go ahead and change the alternator anyway, because it has NEVER been changed and my car now has 112k miles on it so I figure it'd be a good idea. I also noticed that if I can actually get the CEL's to be normal, when the computer goes through and checks them making them disappear one by one, the battery light stays on!!! So...hopefully I have a terrible, POS alternator. I'll keep ya posted on my situation, whoever wants to know more ;)
 

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That happened to me when I replaced my battery with a defected one. One of the battery termianls was faulty. Changed and back to normal.
 

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Ya, I checked my battery terminals too, forgot to add that, sorry. Isn't that a PITA though? OK I FIGURED IT OUT!!!! I recently slapped a sweet ass muffler on my car, and my friend drove me there so we left while they did it and decided to get some lunch. The tech dude that was working on my car found "Another Muffler" and decided to take that off and throw it away. GUESS WHAT IT WAS. My $&*% Catalitic Converter!! GOD!!! Didn't even notice a thing until I got home!! Good god...aight I'll keep everyone posted!!!!
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
AIGHT, once the dealer replaced my converter and sensors ($300 a piece), it ended up being the alternator AND my ignition switch ;) SO since I changed the alternator myself it didn't run me that much cash, but she runs great now WOOOOO!!! Hope my bad luck serves as info for others haha :thumbup:
 
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