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Few questions

-How do i get 14.4 volts to my amp so i can get the most power out of it.

-Do i need a cap? the battery is brandnew so will it give me my 14.4 volts?

-Is an infiniti perfect 12" 4 ohm and a mtx 4250D a good combo or should i go for more power?

-What type of encloser should i go with?
-Should i fill the encloser with anything?
-Should i go with a big encloser or small?

-Digital :bow:
 

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Answers:

How do i get 14.4 volts to my amp so i can get the most power out of it.

***Run the car, your voltage regulator will do the rest.

Do i need a cap? the battery is brandnew so will it give me my 14.4 volts?

***The cap is to allow accurate reproduction of closely time bass shots,
*** so this depends more on your music (your amps will be happier)

Is an infiniti perfect 12" 4 ohm and a mtx 4250D a good combo or should i go for more power?

***Again it has more to do with your music choice. I personally will not run a 12"
***without also running a pair of 8" up from to compensate for the "gap" in
***bass response. 12s go BOOM too much for me.


What type of encloser should i go with? The best you can afford.
-Should i fill the encloser with anything? It must be built to spec from that speaker,
usually, no.
-Should i go with a big encloser or small?

single sealed enclosure.
single sealed inverted enclosure.
single ported enclosure.
single dual ported enclosure.
single single bandpass enclosure.
single double bandpass enclosure.
single triple bandpass enclosure.

do your homework on a Woofer website forum and you'll get the best answers
 

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As far as I know, the factory alternator is regulated at 13.8, or maybe 14.1 at best, so the answer to that question is you dont... However, you dont need to worry about it either, many amps do have different outputs at 12V, 13.8, and 14.4V, but it takes a pretty nicely engineered electrical system to get the voltage all the way up to 14.4 and be able stay there when a substantial load is placed on the system. I'd go with another battery in the trunk if you're worried about it. In my experience caps really dont do much. I have known them to cause as many problems as they might help. While they do help to absorb the ripple in your power system and keep the voltage from sagging, they also keep it from going up as high as it possibly can. I'd rather have an extra $150 battery in my car than a cap that costs just as much.

Also, the "newness" of your battery will not cause it to run at 14.4 volts. The charging system will dictate how much voltage your batteries receive, and consequently put out. You just need to make sure that your batteries can take whatever you're feeding to them. So if you are on a mission to get 14.4 to your amplifier you will need to purchase an externally regulated alternator, and set it at 14.4V. Any car battery will be able to handle that.

On second thought, that's not the *only* way to do that. Another method would be to use a Jacob's AccuVolt. This is a device that will take in voltage between about 10-15V and output it from 12-16V, or somewhere thereabouts. And you just set the output voltage. It will maintain the same output voltage all the time, provided the input voltage remains within the 10-15V range, and you have enough current to supply the unit. You can check them out at http://www.jacobselectronics.com/products/caraudio/fr1500.htm

I dont have any experience with that amplifier, and I have very limited experience with infinity perfect subwoofers, so I cannot tell you how well that combination will work, but I will tell you that the enclosure is very important. Depending on your music tastes, sealed will work for most listeners. If you are heavy into classical music then you should probably check into a ported enclosure tuned rather low like 28Hz or so, and if you are into rap then you should go for a ported enclosure tuned a bit higher, maybe 37Hz. Often times putting polyfil or fiberglass insulation inside of a sealed box can smoothe it out a bit and make it sound a lot better. that is pretty much just a personal taste thing, so I'd try it both ways.

Hope this is helpful for you.
 

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WagenMeister said:
I personally will not run a 12"
***without also running a pair of 8" up from to compensate for the "gap" in
***bass response. 12s go BOOM too much for me.
You do NOT need 8's to fill anything in when using a 12.

The size of a woofer has nothing to do with it's "boominess"

The 3 best subs I've ever heard, all ID subs coincidentally, are the IDMAX12 and the IDW15 and IDW18.

Boominess is a function of the box. Yes, some subs are engineered with a midbass bump, but a box designer worth his ass can tailor a box for any sub for any listener and end up with a flat response if so desired.

Why do you think you need 8s? There are loads of good 6's out there with plenty of midbass capability and will keep the bass image up front. IME, if you think you need 8's for midbass the subs are generally crossed over too high, the mids are crossed over too high, or both.

To the OP, the MTX amp will work great with the Infinity sub you are looking at. Unless you want to get louder, which is all a bigger amp will do, you'll be fine.

No, you do not need a cap.

Morgan's suggestion about the external regulation or a Jacob's Accuvolt are the 2 directions I would go if you absolutely HAVE to have 14.4V, I don't think you do.



Paul :thumbup:
 

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Hey Paul, note I did not say "Don't run a 12 without 8s up front!"
I said "I personally would not ...."
And I would not.
Just like any professional installer, I have my way of doing things and my pref is to run 10s. It's just what I like (2 or 3 in fact) but if the situation warrants a 12" or two, I'll run 8s in the kickpanels to keep the lower mid-bass staging up front (better than the best 6 1/2s in your door firing into your thighs) and drop the crossover point of the 12. Hence my preference for the much simpler 6 1/2s up front with 10s in the back.

Me and my RTA can get anything to sound right, but that doesn't mean I don't have a preference as I'm sure you do.

simple, clean eq-ed and rta-ed to perfection. that's my preference. :)
 

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WagenMeister said:
It's just what I like (2 or 3 in fact) but if the situation warrants a 12" or two, I'll run 8s in the kickpanels to keep the lower mid-bass staging up front (better than the best 6 1/2s in your door firing into your thighs) and drop the crossover point of the 12.

I agree with you for the most part. It's your insistance on running 8s with 12. 6.5's will keep the image up front just fine.



Paul :thumbup:
 
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