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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I changed my timing belt these weekend. I had problems. When I pulled the pin my tensior thingy in the middle went sideways and came out. It seems to give enough support to start even without the tensioner at full taunt(but it is metal on metal). next problem was the bottom timing belt cover was heat damaged and when I flexed it broke all but where the timing mark is so I could still finsih the job. I was able to get it back to running position. First question. The intermediate cam does it have to be marked, or at a certain position to keep timing? I tried to keep this as straight as possible. Second question what is the stock timing suppose to be (degrees) ? I am going to buy a vag-com this week or check with a friend. Now what is happening is I am getting weird sound at idile but no weird splurtring with what I have seen when timing is bad. I am thinking it is b/c the tensior thingy in the middle is not there and when the pulley is flexed or at a weird vibation it is hitting metal on metal. And or the timing belt cover sense it is only in by one bolt an pretty much all of the rest of bottom cover is destroyed. Before it is said, I plan to replace bottom cover and tensior ASAP. Third question is a few parts, if it is off timing, would I feel it? and if off by a little why would the nosie at highway speeds not get crazy loud or my valves already bent to hell, and my car not run? I know the butt dyno can be very unreliable but with this problem. Maybe I am off a tooth and not really causing any problems. Oh yeah and after I put my crankshaft pulley back on I rotated it and it was still at TDC or the camshaft was a little to the right of TDC as many others have stated. Fifth question, with a timing light can the timing be checked sense we don't have distribtors?
(sorry for the bad spelling and the fact that I am all or the place)
Thanks again feel free to answer any questions.
~Chris
 

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The center pin on the damper should rest on the tensioner pad. Did it look like this?



The position of the center sprocket does not matter.

Also, there is no way to adjust the ignition timing it's all a function of the crank sensor (or maybe cam sensor) and the ECU

Are you esentially running without the damper? That's not good. I would not start this engine until it's made right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes I believe so. In that picture... look at your pin the mech metal rod thing that it releases is the part that broke. It still has enough tenson to run but maybe not after it stretches...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am trying to get the guy who I bought it from to get me another one for free, but would a dealer sale just this part?
 

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99green1.8t said:
in that picture... look at your pin the mech metal rod thing that it releases is the part that broke. it still has enough tenson to run but maybe not after it stretches...
:Yikes: :Yikes: :Yikes: I have to agree with TwoManyPassats, I wouldn't start the engine until the tensioner problem you described is fixed. From the way you described your tensioner, the belt could jump timing and you'll have $2-3k of repairs on your hands. I'd rent a Kia, take some vacation days or even ride public transportation before I'd run a 1.8T in that condition.
 

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99green1.8t said:
Yeah I see what your saying. Can this part be bought at the dealer?
UMM- Are you telling me that you did not use a new damper? If so, definately park the car. Firstly, the old style tensioner/damper was crap. I feel most of the early TB breaks were because of this part. Secondly, the TB for the old and new tensioners are NOT the same. If you have a mismatch, the belt is way too tight.

There are quite a few places online that offer the new tensioner, damper, and belt as a set. I'd get one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No.. I have the style in the picture above same exact... it was order as a kit... Duh I didn't see the part number;).
 
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