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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, this past week I went to get my car inspected. It failed (as the title of this thread indicates).

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My CEL came on last Sept. and I've cleared it a couple times. I cleared the CEL before I went for the car inspection and BAM. Failed even though no CEL. Drove it around for a few days and it's on again.

This is what I'm seeing:
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And

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I'm really hoping it's a simple fix as I hear the SAIP running at startup. Is there a DIY on how to check/replace the SAIP hoses?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I searched last night and saw a thread saying that
Could be the pump, but check vacuum first. The thin plastic tubing going to the combi valves gets brittle with age, and is a cheap replacement.
Yeah, found a couple threads saying the vacuum hose could be the culprit.. Found this thread but I'm not clear as the words are great but the pictures don't have any color coding.. Going to keep searching.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can run the SAIP with VCDS to see what sections of the system work. It will attempt to run the pump and open the solenoid. Narrow it down from there.
Found this video from "The HumbleMechanic" about using the VCDS:


But I'm not see a selection to run the SAIP and test the system in the "Output Test". I'll have to look at the video again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if the pump is running well it's probably either the piping from the pump to the combi valves, the combi valves or the vacuum that actuates the combi valves. Since you are getting faults on both sides I'd guess the combi valves are OK and either the plastic tubing from the pump is broken or you don't have enough vacuum to activate the combi valves.

You can check the combi valves with a vacuum pump or measure the vacuum with a gauge but the first thing to do is just physically check the condition of the plastic pipes from the pump and as mentioned above, the vacuum lines. Also check any relevant vacuum check valves that might be in that circuit too (if any, I don't have V6).
I'm going to have to sit down and research what you're suggesting..... Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
He’s saying to get a flashlight and hunch over the back side of the engine. First look intently at all the vacuum hoses and lines to see if they’re intact. Personally I would just buy some vacuum hose and the thin hard tubing and replace it all while I’m there. If needed, you can use a Mityvac (handheld sucky thing with gage) to apply vacuum to see if it holds or you have a leak.

Also he is saying check the plastic discharge hose from the SAIP pump, which is nestled up front behind the bumper cover. That hose snakes its way up and back to the combi valves and also becomes brittle with age.
I looked online and here to try and find a DIY video or something with pics specifically identifying the vacuum lines. Not too successful so far. What I've found so far is:

So far I think this is one of the pieces that should be replaced?


Also found this thread:


In reading the thread, I'll be needing a 6mm hose and a 3mm hose too?

I went to the EKTA section of this site and went through the engine, clutch pdf and can't seem to find the hoses and parts. I looked at 78 of 116 as it's for the V6 but I'm not seeing the T or the vacuum hoses. Perhaps I'm looking at the wrong pages?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
@PZ and @Hirnbeiss
Thanks for the pics and guidance.

I take it the lines I circled in red are the vacuum lines and the 2 devices I highlighted in green below are the solenoid valves? Is the blue item I circled the check valve?

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The two items in the picture below circled in red are the combi valves?

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cool. It looks like the VW vacuum hose replacement kit is hard to get.

I'll have to buy the parts piece meal. How much of the vacuum hose do I need? In searching, the kit from ECS or FCP I think had a 1 meter long hose. Is that sufficient? I read that there is a hose that also goes to a "blue tank" on the driver's side that should be replaced? So that would easily be more than 1 meter in total. Perhaps 3 or 4?

I'll be taking a look at the car later on today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Well, I looked and I broke something.... Dang it.

I was pulling on the hose circled in red to see where it ran down the front of the right cylinder back and the plastic hose broke and I heard a vacuum sound....

The line starts at the top, circled in red in the picture below:

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In the picture below, top left you can barely see the blue of the connector to the right solenoid. The line is circled in red below. Bottom right of picture is where the line snakes down in front of the valve cover. The blue arrow is the direction I was pulling the line when it broke.

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Below is another picture of the line in front of the right front valve cover. The left black part is the timing belt cover.

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In the picture below, the line connected way back up to the solenoid is circled in red. The rest of the line, where the break occurred, is circled in blue.

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When it snapped, I heard a hissing sound, I guess the vacuum being filled? I guess this is where the line may have been cracked causing my CEL??? I'm not sure where this connects to? I assume this is not part of the 3.5mm vacuum line?

I assume that it's still okay to drive?

Help please...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Doing research. I guess that's the line that goes to the vacuum reservoir. Now I need to figure out what size plastic line and silicone line I need to replace that. Also, guess I might to remove the left front fender to get to it? Wondering if that's the cause of my CEL...
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I'm not seeing that vacuum reservior behind the left headlight. I'm going remove the wheel well cover and if I don't see the reservoir, I'm going to have to remove the bumper and headlight to get to the fender. I really hope it doesn't get to that point but I'm going to need to get this resolved pretty soon.

Also, not looking forward to replacing that line to the actuator on the passenger side of the car... In reading it here, that's a PITA.

The 2005's are a bit it different. When I went to take my ABS module out, I had to drill a hole through a metal plate that was in the wheel well to get to the bottom right screw of the ABS module. In the older B5.5 cars, based on posts I saw here, you didn't have to..
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You don't need to remove either.

I'm not seeing the reservoir behind the headlight. In my checks, it seems the reservoir is in the fender or wheel well. I need to check the car really soon. If not, It's going to the Indie shop..
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@Tortelious Thanks for the pics. I took another peek at my car tonight. Found that the plastic line to the drivers side combi valve is broken as well, shown below. Can I cut a bit of the rubber tubing where the blue arrows are pointing to, stick a plastic connector there and connect a new silicon tube which goes to the solenoid?

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The left end of the plastic line in circled red above connects to the right end of the line circled in red below

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From what I can tell, the left end of the line circled in red above is circled in red below and is on some kind of t-connector, which connects to the line circled in yellow below (which goes to the passenger side combi valve and connects to the solenoid in the picture?
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