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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I noticed that the exhaust pipe the muffler shop installed is 45mm in diameter versus the factory pipe 55mm.

Does it make difference?

Also, I m getting vibration although all motor and transmission mounts are new. The front mount is centered in n bracket. I m thinking the exhaust system is under stress. I was planning on cutting the newly installed section in half, leaving an inch space and use a clamp. The factory clamp i ordered is too big for the shop installed pipe.

Would you find the right size clamp or get a whole exhaust system from the junk yard and install? A daunting but not impossible task without a lift.

And, I think the flex pipe they installed is half the size of the factory flex.

See attached pics.

Thoughts?





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If all you need is the section from Cat to suitcase muffler, they can be had on amazon or Rockauto for about $100 shipped or less. I got a bosal branded one. It worked just fine with the OEM clamp. I noticed the diameter was a tad smaller until it got to the clamped end where it was expanded to meet OEM diameter.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1313504&cc=1418734&jsn=398
https://www.amazon.com/Bosal-860-97...t&qid=1552219850&s=automotive&sr=1-1-fkmrnull
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQHBCOC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll want new bolts, flange nuts, and the gasket for both ends of the cat. It's much easier to remove the cat and pipe as one piece and separate them on a bench. The cat to DP bolts are practically inaccessible.

You can also try renting a pipe expander from Auto Zone to open up a bit to match the factory diameter.
 
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I'm no exhaust expert but that job looks horrible. There are several bends in what should be a mostly straight pipe. The pipe has welded vs. mandrel bends and is forcing the dp at the wrong angle. There is no mid-pipe hanger. It also appears to be a continuous piece with no connections, so the only way to remove is to cut.

Looks like there is serious rust right in front of the flex pipe, that will soon rust through.

I'd rip it out and put in an OEM type replacement with the correct geometry and hanger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you all. I am more inclined toward getting an oem exhaust and installing it.

I will remove the cat and downpipe as one unit for ease. My only concern is the lower nut that is on the cat-to-turbo connection.

Is it possible to remove it from above or should I crawl underneath?


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You can remove from above if you remove the airbox and use a box-end obstruction wrench. Easier than swivels and extensions from below.
Ditto. That one nut will take a while because of tight quarters, but nothing compared to trying to remove the dp from the cat while still on the car.
 
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experience the same problems (being in heart of rust belt) and with the 2.8 double the trouble, what I did was when the "flex" finally went on my 1.8 ,dropped downpipe out off cat, and yes you have to be double jointed and especially so putting a new "long" replacement in is, well, a bitch,so purchased internal mandrel bent bosal brand downpipe,flex,exhaust pipe assembly. Cut immediately forward of flex and attached stainless steel pipe nipple(cut in half) to downpipe and coupling (cut in half) to flex/exhaust pipe half... bolted back downpipe to cat, then threaded coupling weld to flex/exhaust pipe onto it ,put on some exhaust goop to seal,now when flex goes again can put on "off the car, btw made upma couple at the time so if anybody wants on let me know, actually misplaced them and year later re-found getting old is a bitch also Auto part
 

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"likes" and compliments are appreciated...... thank you, however I do this all out of necessity, with limited means and as they say you gotta do ,what you gotta do. I sympathize with all those who depend on these cars (with all there quirks) just to get to work , been there, so anything I can do to help anyone is welcomed, the value of this site is sometimes forgotten but in retrospect has kept me on the road for many years, something as simple as a ABS failure (internal) which would have put me in the "dumps" became just a small bump in the road in a Passat saga, just seeing some of the stuff guys tackle on this site is encouraging...... thank you again,two things I have an extra nipple and coupling for a 1.8 if anybody wants one, also my next task or challenge is to design a repair for the dreaded heater core replacement (with out removal) so if anybody has one of the old ones they have removed I will be more than happy to purchase and pay shipping, this would help many out who might just want to throw in the towel.....
 

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experience the same problems (being in heart of rust belt)
To overcome the rust from road salt, every summer I jack up the car and use high-temp silver spray can to completely paint the exhaust pipes from beginning to the end. This has worked really good for me as there is virtually no rust there after 18 years.

Due to the heat and extreme cold and of course tons of salt on the streets, the paint peels off every year so I just paint over the old one. Cost: $5 Time: 1/2 hour
 

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sorry Ax-man, the stuff/goop I refer to is "exhaust" sealant, has consistency of toothpaste, all auto parts stores carry it. Put it on the joints when you assemble components ,it sticks but can easily be scraped away, it gets rid of that "pftttt" "pffffttt" "ppffffttttt" sound in those minute leaks you get at the joints... it's a compound of clay and sodium silicate "water glass", moisture in the exhaust and the heat cure it ,since when you screw the two parts together you cannot guarantee that you get the joint tight in the sweet spot, this gets rid of that "ppffffftttttt"
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
To overcome the rust from road salt, every summer I jack up the car and use high-temp silver spray can to completely paint the exhaust pipes from beginning to the end. This has worked really good for me as there is virtually no rust there after 18 years.

Due to the heat and extreme cold and of course tons of salt on the streets, the paint peels off every year so I just paint over the old one. Cost: $5 Time: 1/2 hour
Is there a specific brand for that silver can that you used? I want to apply it before installing the exhaust.


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